HOrnbrod

I have the same 23.5 gal. tank in my 91 and used a Bosch 69302 pump, no problems.

The tach input hooks to the negative wire on the coil 12V input. On your 88 it should be green, but verify the polarity with a digital multimeter to be sure.

A common spark plug thread chaser like below (w. 14mm & 18mm threads) works just fine on Jeep O2 sensor M18 threads. You can get one at Autozone or similar for about $7. Don't forget to use a little anti-seize on your new sensor threads.

Are you saying the Renix system does not have a speed sensor input to the computer?

That's true about the ZJ Pitman arms. IMO I'd wait until it's all bolted up before deciding on the arm. The one you will need will be just enough drop to keep the track bar and drag link as close to parallel as possible, and you won't really know until it's all in place. :thumbsup:

Maybe they all moved to the rust belt. :dunno:

I said no because I don't use any additives except Lucas Oil products, and then very rarely. I know my engine and fuel system is clean both inside and outside so I don't waste the money. I can see the possible need for a product like this however if you p/u a raggedy vehicle of unknown origins and history.

Are they hub centric and anodized? If not I would toss them in the trash. Cheap spacers are unsafe and the reason spacers get a bad rap. I would quantify that reply with this: those spacers are definitely only trash worthy, but trash them in your aluminum trash pile along with the beer cans. Might as well get a couple of recycle bucks for them. Also, the Spidertrax spacers are both hub centric and wheel centric. :thumbsup:

I usually look the parts up at home so I can just tell them what part number I need. On the few occasions I forget, after 5 minutes of back and forth they usually give up and hand me the keyboard... p- So what vehicle do I put that under for warranty? m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- No, really. m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- That part is not for a Jeep Comanche. m- That is what it's going on, p- It won't fit. m- Trust me, it fits. p- "No vehicle given". I too always get the part number for what I want online then call ahead and have the part waiting on the counter so I don't have to deal too much with the parts drones. They have tunnel vision; everything's in black and white to them. For instance I went to my local Autozone for a new Duralast Gold battery. The 1997 and up XJs used the 34-DLG (Group 34) batteries; the 1996 and below used the 8-DLG (Group 58) batteries. They both have to same battery tray, and both fit the MJ with no problems. The group 34 battery is rated at 800 CCA (cold cranking Amps), the group 58 is rated at 610 CCA so that's a no-brainer. The drone didn't want to warranty the battery because his computer said so, so I had him look up the battery for a 97 XJ, then no problem. :shake:

Sounds like he's waaaay too busy and not enjoying things enough. Good to hear he's okay. :cheers:

Unless you're driving a Saab. :yes:

Original post: "i just got a 1986 jeep comanche satuday and it did not pass inspection from when the last owner had it due to not havin a neutral safety swtich, but her machanic said they didn't have one, is that true or did the 86 comanche have a neutral safety switch? Also where is the engine id code is on a 86 comanche?" This thread is an airbag. Drives me up the wall. :yes:

Saabs have an selectable freewheel system that controls sliding counterweights on the clutch plate. When you take your foot off the gas going down a hill, the weights slide in and disengage the clutch automatically. To engage the clutch while in freewheel on level ground, you give it more throttle and the weights slide out and you have the driven clutch again. It was nice to use on the interstates and saved gas, but terrible on mountainous roads because it ate up the brakes faster. But it's selectable to use when you want.

Tom, I used a XJ two-switch panel from the LR door for the drivers side, and a single switch panel from the XJ RR door when I did mine. The cross-body harness connecting the two is only three wires, so 3-conductor power cable works fine. Didn't do the power locks, but they will also require three wires cross-body. I have lots of door panels/switches. Shoot me a PM with your email address and I can send you a wiring diagram if you want to go that way.

I remember those Sun Analyzers and MJ_Milam's answer makes perfect sense. Probably had the holes on the old 4.2 engines drilled all the way through the nub for the wand to time them, then kept casting the covers the same way w/o punching the holes when the distributors became fixed. Thanks for all the answers. :cheers:

Not really Alex. They had the plastic chrome "plating" between the segments and silver paint between the plating. Just paint would not look good. Here's a pic of a NOS pair I sold awhile ago. You can see it if you blow it up a bit. The chrome windshield trim and drip rail covers will look nice.............. You have me thinking about the 97 front end clip swap. That's going to be super nice.

:drool: Mmmmmm, chrome :drool:

My red-eyed no-fear wrench snatcher Gus

Magnum engines? You mean the 5.2/5.9 V8s?

That's exactly what happened Frank. I had a Goodyear Gatorback belt installed. It did groove out the nub as you said, but it also frayed/flattened out two of the six ribs on the belt. I only noticed the fray on the belt when I replaced my distributor and was checking the timing marks with a timing light. Probably would have been fine for awhile more, but I chopped the top off the nub and installed a new belt to eliminate the rubbng.

Yes, but it's not a sensor, it's a temp switch for the indicator light. Autozone TU82 or similar.

It does, the shift indicator cable clips on the intermediate column cover that moves when you shift. Also if it's an 87 you have the AW4; the a904 3-speed was only used in the 86 models. Unless you have an oddball.

Years ago when I got my MJ, it had idiot lights, A/C, and a clogged cat. The temp light came on just before the aux fan when it was getting hot, right around 235*-240*. I later verified this with a full gauge cluster.