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Everything posted by HOrnbrod
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What a bunch of haters. I feel very strongly about this rig. About the same as y'all do. But, it is, err, interesting.
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86 2.5 Periodically Runs Poor
HOrnbrod replied to 87Warrior's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Found a NOS Mopar unit on Ebay here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?_nkw=33002382&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_rdc=1 Last one in the civilized world. :yes: Appears the seller knows it too. -
86 2.5 Periodically Runs Poor
HOrnbrod replied to 87Warrior's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Ah yes, part number 33002382. I have searched for these before and could not find one. All the TBI 2.5's through 1989 used this sensor. Some Dodges and Plymouths too. Have you seen this? It's a good article on that MAT sensor and it does list a substitute that looks like it might work for the TBI engine. http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/225-jeep-yj-wrangler-25l-tbi-troubleshooting/ -
86 2.5 Periodically Runs Poor
HOrnbrod replied to 87Warrior's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Brett, here's the IAT/MAT temp vs. ohms chart for the early HOs. This is from the 91 FSM. As you can see, the ohm values are quite different throughout the temp range. I don't know how well this sensor would work in a Renix system, and how much weight is assigned for the IAT signal by the Renix computer. Aren't the connectors different too? The Renix and HO IAT's are completely different animals. I think cleaning the tip up with Berryman's carb cleaner and a Q-tip would be best to try first. Ans aftermarket IAT sensors are still available as I'm sure you know. HTH.......... -
I have to agree with that statement. I've done all the modifications Jeepco detailed above, and none of them benefit fuel mileage. But at 80% throttle and up, it brings up a big smile to my face and mileage be damned.
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86 2.5 Periodically Runs Poor
HOrnbrod replied to 87Warrior's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Here they are: Image Not Found FWIW, a few years ago I installed a threaded bung in my CAI tube and installed an additional IAT sensor there. During the summer I plug the IAT connector into this location; then back to the manifold for the winter. It seems to help mileage marginally and smooth the idle a bit, but it's not earth shattering. Might help more with the Renix. -
Testing Sending Unit Potentiometers
HOrnbrod replied to snakedoc67's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The test is to verify the sending unit's potentiometer (pot) is picking off the correct ohm values (resistance) as the float arm moves the pot's slider from full-to-empty fuel conditions. These values directly impact the fuel gauge needle deflection. To test, connect an ohmmeter across the pot's center terminal that goes to the gauge and the slider terminal that is tied to the float. Move the float slowly up and down. The ohms readings are checked at full, empty, and all points in between. It's best to used an analog ohmmeter for testing to verify a smooth transition and that there are no dead spots along the pot's windings. The ohms resistance readings should correspond to the values stated in the vehicle's FSM. Renix and HO senders have different resistance values and the output polarity is opposite, but the testing process is the same for both units. -
Getting back to the OP's questions, which Ford 4-holers injectors do you have? If you have the 24# version on a non-aspirated stock engine, they will not help your MPG, especially with the Renix computer. Also have you checked your fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge set, and what gear ration are you running? Why would we want to do that? Stick to the subject at hand, that is. Isn't this forum turning from a "help the guys out" forum into an ego driven pontificating distracrion instead? Yep, roger that Cruiser. Hopefully the OP, tugalo, is still on board.
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Getting back to the OP's questions, which Ford 4-holers injectors do you have? If you have the 24# version on a non-aspirated stock engine, they will not help your MPG, especially with the Renix computer. Also have you checked your fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge set, and what gear ration are you running?
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Can Comanche Wheel bearings be re-packed?
HOrnbrod replied to mknherhappy's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You can't buy the OEM caps anymore. The Mr. Gasket Chrome Dust Caps, #2485, are the closest you will find. They are just a bit small, but you can cut a strip of aluminum and fold it around the inner lip of the hub and they will tap in firmly and stay. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-2485/overview/ -
Way to go Pete-man. :cheers: We are extremely fortunate to have you here, freely sharing all the expertise you have gained through your many years as a Jeep service manager. Many of your "mostly Renix" tips also apply to the HOs, and I have sucked out and applied all that did for my own HO rig. Thanks for all that, and get that stroker installed rock and rollin' in your pristine 90 Pioneer. Then do some stroker tips. Too bad about that fast little yellow Hesco "delivery truck". Sadly it's been relegated to museum status now. I still go look at every now and then.
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Saw that one before, but there's a lot more updated info there now. Time to read and heed. Thanks for the link. :cheers:
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91 Fuel Gauge And Sending Unit Questions
HOrnbrod replied to Keyav8r's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Your fuel sender pot readings sound okay. My 91 fuel gauge reads fine, but I'll try to answer. "Should there be a ground strap/wire between the tank and the unibody?" The fuel sender ground is behind the left tail lamp. Make sure it's clean, tight, and shiny. Also check it from the sender connector. AFAIK that's it for sender ground. "Should the 91 have a ground wire from the dash to the unibody like the Renix MJs? I can't spot one." There isn't one from the factory. I did find the black dash ground wire (about 12AWG) tied to to the dash lower left brace, using a dental mirror is the easiest way. Since I had no cluster problems, all I did was verify that the sheet metal screw connection was clean and tight. Pic below (not mine). "I'm wondering if this could be a grounding issue as the voltmeter also doesn't work. Everything else on the truck works correctly. Any suggestions?" Pull the cluster and check the gauge mounting screws for tight and clean, and go over the circuit foil carefully checking for or partial PC breaks and/or cold solder joints. I have a few foils left for the HO clusters when I was calibrating them if you need one. Also make sure the two cluster cables are clean and fully seated. Image Not Found -
That's a very reasonable price for a "heavy duty" AW4 rebuilt Earl. providing just how HD it really is. I would like to know what the Performance shift kit, valve body improver kit, and more entails. Also if they offer a beefed torque converter to improve the normal 20%-30% power loss the stock AW4 provides. I'll troll around on the strokers site and see if this outfit is mentioned. The mfg. p/n (53007997) mentioned is correct for my application as well.
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Check the wiring to your injectors. If the injector connectors are crossed it will cause hard or no starting, rough idling, and black sooty smoke from the exhaust. Since all was well before you changed injectors, it logically points to something you did incorrectly in the process.
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Seriously? How much more drag can they add to our brick shaped vehicles? Thats why I installed the nose off a 70 Plymouth Superbird on my truck. Its basically a direct bolt on ill post pictures later. The only real drawback is that I can't run it in the nascar truck series anymore. They said I was cheating. Looking forward to your pics. :thumbsup: Your Superbird nose and an aerodynamic cap similar to this one would be ideal. Image Not Found
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:yes: Not nearly as much as driving around with the vent windows open.
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Try this: Turn the key on until the pump stops running. The gauge should read at least 30#. Turn the key off and watch the gauge to see if it holds pressure. If it drops immediately, it's probably the regulator (most likely) or the fuel pump check valve.
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AW 30-40LE is an Aisin 340H transmission, probably from an Isusu. Someone must have swapped it in it's past. How do I know? I just looked it up. :yes:
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We won't know anything for sure until the Big 10 and SEC conference championship games are played out. If Auburn can beat either Missouri or S. Carolina in the SEC game, then they should go to the BCS. I hope so. I'm an Auburn fan now...........
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Saban made plenty of stupid decisions tonight.
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Sweet Jesus. Where is the defense? Congrats Auburn fans.
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If Alabama loses this game tonight, I will not be upset - Auburn deserves it. I've never the Tide play a more tentative, sloppy game, especially defensively. Their kicker really sucks too. EDIT: HOWEVER, if this new kicker makes this field goal, all is forgiven.
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Ohio State and Michigan, si? It's all tied up now with five minutes left. ROLL Wolverines!
