HOrnbrod

Since you are throwing a code 15 (no VSS output to ECU), this could be the cause of your stalling problem. The VSS sensor is mounted on the T-case since you have 4WD and feeds a signal to the ECU for engine RPM management purposes. Check the electrical connection for continuity from the VSS output connector to the ECU.

You didn't mention what year, engine, etc. you are talking about. Anyhow, I smoked two coils pretty quickly on my 91 when I first got it. The problem turned out to be a bad ground from the neg.battery terminal to the coil mounting stud. I ran a new AWG 8 wire from the coil mount to the neg battery terminal and haven't had any coil problems since. If just grounded by a mounting bolt to the block or elsewhere, a crusty or loose connection will create impedance and cause the coil to overheat and burn up fairly quickly.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/5050823454.html $9300 I'd like it better w/o all the aftermarket add-ons.

Most likely bump stops.

Start a new thread.

More like a year. That's how long it took my GS MT leaf springs to settle down to closely equal the front with OME 2" lift coils. It sets just right now like I wanted originally, so it all worked out fine in the end.

<----40 years electrician I think its under the belt lmalol That's nice, but you didn't answer the question. Did you download the manual?

^^. Remember when the highway departments with the state troopers blessing used to park horrific wrecks on the side of the Interstate to "remind" drivers this could happen to them if they were speeding? I remember CT and VA used to do this. These parked wrecks just caused more wrecks from the rubber-neckers slowing down to eyeball them then getting rear ended. The lawyers had a goldmine going for awhile with the lawsuits. What a stupid idea that was.........

Was it broke before you changed the spring?

I think that's far too cheap. $12K would be more realistic.

Please edit your signature detailing the year, engine, etc. of your truck.

It's not a Chrysler problem; it's a radio hack job problem it sounds like. Is the radio aftermarket or non-original? If it doesn't have a power antenna pin the hacker who installed it probably used a 12V constant or switched pin for the antenna relay. That would explain the motor running constantly. Did you check all the fuses in the PDC? Swap around some of the relays in there (they are all the same), especially the ASD relay and see if anything changes.

No. There were just two flavors of MT springs; the 4+1 (4 regular leafs + 1 thick overload leaf) and the 3+2 (3 regular leafs + 2 thick overload leafs). Depending on the option package, either configuration could come on either 2WD, 4WD, LWB, or SWB MJs. 3+2 4+1 Pics courtesy of Tom, Hell Creek

Cruiser's post above reminded me of another highly used expression, but in this case is apropos: Totally Lame. :rotfl2:

They show up on my laptop and phone... Might just be me, can anyone else see them? Okay I opened it on my desktop, can see them fine. Wow that paint is beautiful can't wait to see it in the sun! Yep.

Earl Scheib. I think a Schwaab is a midget chicken or some other edible bird thing Jim.

The important thing is that no injury occurred to you and yours in the plastic and foam Toy car due to the idiot behind you. I assume that is the point you were making.

P/n 53004763 is for the 87-90 2.5L with manual transmissions; 53004764 is for the autos.

When the firewall connector is unplugged, it breaks the pin B ground connection, so you're okay. Solenoid 2 (pin F) resistance is too high - should be 15 ohms or less. But usually when the solenoid coil goes bad it opens. I think your best bet is to find another TCU and replace it, then if it's still AFU, replace the solenoids - all three of them. You can also check the solenoid coils via the TCU connector, pins C14, C15, and C16 to ground, with the firewall connector plugged in of course. .

Then you are on the wrong ground or the wrong 7-way connector pins. You can't have three open solenoids. This is how my 91 is wired. Check your Electrical FSM to verify your Renix has the same pinouts. Image Not Found

Did you test your solenoids?

^^ Si - beat me Bo.

You should have 4th gear (O/D) when performing the manual shifting test in DRIVE w/o the TCU. But try the TCU replacement. Image Not Found Image Not Found

I know the 91 TCU pinouts are different than the 90 and below, so I doubt a 98 TCU would work. And yes; when you apply 12V to the solenoid coil (pin F for solenoid #2) the solenoid will close and you will go from an open to continuity on the ohmmeter. You will probably be able to hear it click also. If it's working that is. You can verify it on another solenoid. You can use a 9V battery for testing relays and solenoids.

The AW4 manual says 11-15 ohms; replace if reading is above or below the specified range. Mine all read on the high side (~15) within .5 ohm of each other. Looks like if S2 was not closing you would have no 2nd or 3rd gear. You could try applying 12V to pin F while monitoring the contacts with an ohmmeter to see if it's making. Do you have a spare TCU?