HOrnbrod

Of course he is. The link I posted on Ebay is for both bushings.

The parts drone is full of it. Mopar sells these as a set, both bushings for one WJ LCA. There's a set on Ebay HERE.

That's a fact. But only I need to read it..... Good point.

Your penmanship sucks.

The last Bosch pump I put in was considerably smaller than the original, but it came with bushings and adapters and it was straightforward after figuring where they went. Also recommend spending a few extra $$ and go with the Bosch pump over the Carter.

The below thread might give you some insight regarding FSJ spring characteristics. Granted the poster went with used FSJ springs in a SOA configuration, but there's some good info here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/23624-grand-wagoneer-rear-spring-soa-swap-done-more-pics-added/

Pic 1 - DBR-III / OBD1 diagnostic connector Pic 2 - Headlight delay connector Pic 3 - :dunno:

You can't figure out why that happens eh mate? :yes:

Thanks Adam. That was the one. Done by member dasbulliwagen. I like it. :cheers: Brackets:

Someone awhile back mounted an XJ rear bumper on an MJ. It looked great, and if you didn't know they originally came with a step bumper it looked completely stock. Naturally I didn't bookmark it. Does anyone remember?

Brain fart. :doh:

Did the light flash at all? Even with no fault codes you will get a 5-5 code. A non-flashing code light is a symptom of a bad ECU.

Adjusting caster: http://comancheclub.com/topic/45885-adjusting-caster/?hl=angle+finder Centering axle: http://comancheclub.com/topic/47743-one-wheel-rubbing-on-new-fenders/?hl=track+bar&do=findComment&comment=487397 With a winch up front, you'll only get a 1/2" drop max with the OME coils. Unless you mount up something like this:

This is similar to my setup. Expect 3" of lift with OME 934's and new coil isolators with a stock (no winch) MJ. You can get the isolators and bump stops at Quadratec and other places: http://www.quadratec.com/products/56020_100.htm. With 3" of lift your caster will become less positive, and you will need to add shims to the back of your LCAs to get it back to ~ +7.5*. Your WJ LCAs will be fine. You will also need an adjustable track bar (I did) to re-center the front axle. You shouldn't have to worry about anything else.

Dude: 1. Replace fuel filter. It looks the original from 1992. 2. Do a fuel pressure test with the gauges. This will test the regulator and pump. 3. Troubleshoot or replace the MAP sensor as described to get rid of the #13 fault code. You're just running around in circles - it's best to do things logically. The broken hoses are vent lines for the tank and will not cause a no-start condition.

Meh, I've never been excited about FSJ's, although that one looks nearly museum quality.

Since you have a 91, have you checked for fault codes? http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/?hl=fault+codes

Went over to my local dealer and he had two of the 53010511AA oil pan support pieces, so I got them both. The difference according to the parts guy is that the old p/n J3243116 is a simple metal support strip, and the newer one is that same metal strip but encapsulated in a rubber seal. He claims it seals much better than the older one. I don't know about that, but it installed easily and we'll see if it does any good as I was getting a little weeping in that area. It goes on much easier using two 5/16" Allen head bolts rather than the wider hex head stock bolts. I don't need the second piece, and if anyone wants it I'll ship it for $10 if you're located in the lower 48. New stainless Allen head mounting bolts included. Paypal preferred. EDIT: Also posted in the Classified - For sale Forum

Sounds promising for the Ranger springs then since the MJ and Ranger are designed for the same p/u truck purpose. Would be wise to check it out. :cheers:

Probably Eagle, and maybe they might work just fine for an MJ driver. But as long as MJ-spec engineered replacement springs are still available, nobody will move forward to check it out. MJ parts are drying up, but it's not like trying to find rear springs for the below. :yes:

The "centering" pins are not centered for any of the springs the OP listed. "A" distance is from the front spring eye to the pin; "B" distance is the measurement from the pin to the rear spring eye. All are 2-1/2" wide leafs and are either 4 or 5 leaf configuration. Measurements are as follows: MJ Measures (A/B) = 26/31 Ranger Measures (A/B) = 31/25-5/8 Explorer Measures (A/B) = 25-11/16/30-15/16 The Explorer measurements are nearly the same; the Ranger springs could possible be flipped 180*. Other things to be considered are the spring rate, bushing hole size, and free arch. There may be other variables, and it would be worth investigating further and proving out these springs as possible viable replacements for the MJ rear springs.

You shouldn't have a code 13 if you did the hard ECU reset correctly, unless your MAP sensor is bad or it isn't receiving it's 5VDC reference voltage. Pull the 3-pin connector off the MAP sensor, turn IGN ON, and check for voltage across pins C (+) and pin A (GND). This is the MAP's reference voltage and it should be very close to 5V. If no voltage is present, verify pin A reads continuity to GND. If it does, replace the MAP sensor. And yes, the hum you hear is the fuel pump.

Subscribed.

This is very true.

You have codes that are not supposed to be there. Try a hard reset on the ECU as follows. Might just work............ 1. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. 2. Reconnect the Battery Cable 3. Turn Ignition Switch to the "ON" position but DO NOT start the engine 4. Turn Headlight "ON" 5. Turn Headlights "OFF" 6. Turn Ignition Key "OFF" The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM. EDIT: For the fuel pressure pressure test you can rent a gauge set from AZ of one of the other parts store chains that have the correct fittings for the fuel rail. It's free.