HOrnbrod

He has a 2.5. Same thing?

The headlamp relay harness is always a good upgrade even with the stock sealed beams, agree 100% with that. But even the genuine E-code Hella housings (and for sure the crappy Autopal junk or whatever they are called) with 80/100 H4 halogens or more and the harness don't compare to a quality set of LED head lamps. It's all about $$ I know, but it's the best lighting upgrade for our MJs IMO. Anyone need some nice Hella E-code housings with bulbs? :yes:

Damn right it worked good. Sounds like a good plan (been putting cleaning the carpets off for a loooong time). You got an excellent ride for your step daughter. Looks just like the XJ Sport I bought new in Guam from AAFES when I was there. The Ravines look great on it too. :cheers:

Nice Bo, especially that engine bay. Not a trace of rust anywhere. :cheers: How did you do those carpets? Did you pull them out?

Get LEDs.

24VDC military incandescent bulbs last forever in a 12VDC vehicle. They're great for daytime running lights but useless when it gets dark. :yes:

Chrysler started using a blower motor relay on the 1997 and up XJs. The relay coil is triggered by ignition-switched 12V and the load contacts are tied to the blower hot lead. Here's how to do it. Wire one in and let us know how it works. :yes:

The Renix blower motor has a long rambling ground wire on it; all the way to the other side of the engine compartment. A relay on the blower motor hot wire isn't going to help much if at all with a poor ground. Cut off your existing black ground wire near the motor connector, and using a butt splice (or solder & heat shrink), splice it back together including an additional length of 10 - 12 AWG wire. Tie this new wire to a good grounding point on the right fender, or even on the dipstick tube ground cluster. Your blower motor will run faster. It would also be a good idea to pull your blower motor first and check the ducting for any obstructions inside. For the 91s and 92s, the blower motor ground configuration was upgraded by the factory and is satisfactory as-is.

^^ Same here. Normal for the GM wiper switch.

It's possible but not probable as they have been obsolete parts for many years. Just transfer everything over from the donor HO XJ. It's been done many times.

Probable broken/cracked vacuum line. Check in front of the battery where the plastic vacuum line goes through the right front bulkhead to the vacuum canister behind the bumper. They usually crack in that general area.

Sounds like you might not be in closed loop after warmup. Try a new O2 sensor.

I think it's a regulation mirror with an export glass. The exports that went to Saudi and the UAE had to have Arabic writing on everything to register them. My daughter just returned from the UAE and saw some XJs there like this on the base. But yeah, how it ended up in the US is interesting.....

Err, yeah Dirty, that's a distinct possibly. I'm guessing my timing light is like 70's vintage - I've had it forever. Still plays though. :yes:

I've never been able to do trigger a magnetic pickup timing light by cranking an engine over with the starter. I have though with a test light in series with the wire and ground though. That's why I'm asking the OP how he determined his 0* timing reading.

Of course. No sheite I'm asking the OP HOW does he know the timing light is pinging on 0* if the engine doesn't start and run?

And just how did you do that if it doesn't start? A timing light uses a magnetic pickup on the #1 plug wire to trigger the light when the #1 plug fires. Or are you using one of the old timey lights that hook up in series with the plug wire?

No, you just plug in the male connector on the new harness into the old headlamp female connector. You can use either the R or L headlamp connector. No cutting/splicing necessary,

Nope. That socket is where the new harness gets the HI - LO beam feeds from the existing headlamp dimmer switch to trigger the relays.

I think you blew them up by playing too much Drake...........

NOW you tell me. :fs1: I had to hack up a pipe coupling to fab the spacer - PITA.

You do have the rotor in the distributor? I've forgotten that a few times........... :doh:

It should still pop if fuel is getting in the cylinders and you have spark to the plugs. Got the timing gear marks lined up like below at TDC of the #1 cylinder compression stroke?

For the craptastic left tail lamp ground, I just ran an additional ground wire from the grounding screw behind the lamp down to a bumper bracket bolt.

Tom, when you turn the IGN key on does the fuel pump start, then shut off when it reaches ~30 psi? Was the replacement tank and fuel pump new stuff, or used from another vehicle? If so, what year vehicle? I'd try the flow test into a bucket I mentioned above to see if it's pumping enough volume - that will eliminate the fuel pump and regulator if good.