HOrnbrod

Logic module is a generic term and they are used for many different applications. This particular logic module is for third brake light installations and allowed me to pick up the brake switch 12V signal for the third brake light at the tail lamp harness w/o interference (flashing) from the turn signals. How it does this internally I don't know, but w/o it if I used the turn signals while braking the third brake light would intermittently flash in time with the turn signals.

I believe it's called a logic module. I had to use one when I installed a third brake light on my camper shell. It was either that or run a new trigger wire from a set of the NO contacts on the brake pedal switch.

True for an MJ, but not for an XJ. XJ's have separate turn signal bulbs. I always mix up the two...........

Make it adjustable! http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

No. As long as the brake line fittings are not loosened allowing air in the system, you don't have to bleed. Just disconnect the rod, move the lever back up to parallel with the axle, then reconnect the rod.

I think you are correct Dirty.

With a 4-pin flat connector you don't wire in the brake lights on an MJ since the brake lights and turn signal lights each have their own bulbs. But that's okay in AL; that's what I have for my trailer. If you want the brake lights too you'll need to use a 5-pin flat connector. No backup lights is probably the NSS.

The newer Jeep canister (53030500) should work for you if you rework your vacuum lines and hook it up like the diagram below. It should also fit in the same spot as your old one but you will need to fab up a bracket for it.

I think that's a waste of money using adjustable arms with a small lift. All the "pluses" you mentioned you can do just as well or better with a quality set of stock or even better WJ arms. Except for the front pinion angle, but that's not really a problem with a smallish lift on an MJ. A lot of the aftermarket adjustables are junk with junk bushings too unless you pay big $$ for the known good stuff. Krusty's come to mind for the junk stuff..... But it's your $$ and of course you are entitled to spend it any way you want to.

You can live with stock control arms at 3 inches. Beyond that, either get drop brackets (if it's just for street use) or spring for adjustable control arms. Even at 3 inches I'd recommend an adjustable track bar. ^^^ At 3" there's enough room for additional shims behind the LCAs to correct your caster back to specs, so no adj. arms are necessary. 3" will also shift the axle a bit more than 1/2" off-center, so an adjustable track bar should be installed. Providing when you go to undo the lock nuts for the adjuster fork 'thinger' they don't just break off... It's a bit of a crappy design, at least if you're anywhere that has seen some salt. The 'thinger' is called a LCA clevis and they are readily available in many places including HERE. The various thickness caster shims are available too, or you can easily make your own. I think the design works quite well for lifts under 4" and saves you some $$ too. :thumbsup:

You can live with stock control arms at 3 inches. Beyond that, either get drop brackets (if it's just for street use) or spring for adjustable control arms. Even at 3 inches I'd recommend an adjustable track bar. ^^^ At 3" there's enough room for additional shims behind the LCAs to correct your caster back to specs, so no adj. arms are necessary. 3" will also shift the axle a bit more than 1/2" off-center, so an adjustable track bar should be installed.

Why do you need a grommet since the cable's gone? Just get a 1-1/2" sheet metal or rubber hole plug.

That's a generic restrictor, not specific to the Jeep 4.0 upper or lower hoses, which have different ID's. The item description doesn't even give the ID of the small-end of the taper. You'll need to find out all that info first.

:thumbsup: Please post up your results when tested.

Same as Marcus used.

It doesn't "suggest" anything except that cooling system efficiency can be improved. Read Gojeep's article. Many manufacturers use restrictors of varying designs in their cooling systems.

Since I got my A/C up and running awhile back, I haven't liked the engine temps on super hot (~100*F) days. The A/C works fine, but the engine temps start to creep up while it's on, especially in traffic. Never all the way to the red zone, but close. I read THIS article on Marcus's (Gojeep) web site about the use of restrictors in the system to stabilize engine temperatures. Since his XJ cooling system is similar to mine (Hesco high flow water pump with twin electric fans) I thought I'd give it a try. If you read the whole article, you will see that Marcus found the best size restrictor for his system turned out to be the 1/2" size. I cut out three restrictors out of a nylon board exactly like his in 7/8", 3/4", and 1/2" sizes; the 1/2" and 3/4" sizes are shown below. After trying all three restrictors for a few days each, the 3/4" size gave me the best results. I've been driving around for two weeks now with the 3/4" restrictor in the radiator upper hose, and my temp gauge stays rock solid straight up. On the hottest days stuck in traffic with the A/C running, the indicator goes slightly to the right of center about two needle widths max., then quickly moves back down when I get moving again. This mod really did work for me, and my engine temperatures have never been so stable. Overall it runs cooler too. It's worth a try if your engine runs hotter at times than you'd like it to. The only thing I'd add to his writeup is to use an extra hose clamp around the restrictor washer that's inside the upper hose to keep it from moving as in the pic below.

I was always tripping that damn switch into Comfort by mistake until I hardwired it permanently to the Power position. Do it too!

When in doubt, use the DIY search index first. That's what it's there for. http://comancheclub.com/topic/24398-turn-signal-socket-replacement/ Dorman 84716

I'm pretty sure that was a homemade one-off manifold. Here's a dual Weber setup from Clifford: http://www.shop.cliffordperformance.net/Jeep-258-40_c7.htm

Actually it's called a flag nut.

^^ Correct - according to the parts manual. P/n 6505549AA.

What does this have to do with a headlight harness upgrade?

I think it's a fuel problem too and the answer will be obvious when you pull the pump Gog. Crud from a rusted tank in the inlet sock (if it's still intact) causing fuel starvation for the weak pump. Hopefully the injector cleaner and new filter will get you by for the trip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Suspension-Track-Bar-for-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Wrangler-/311631895169?hash=item488eb55a81:g:EFoAAOSwXrhXnFx9&vxp=mtr