HOrnbrod

Looks like I've successfully hijacked this thread. Unintentionally of course. :yes: So I'm moving all the SUA plate posts to a new topic here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52694-sua-recessed-u-bolt-plate/?do=findComment&comment=537260

The original pic was of a Toyota Tacoma with a 2-1.2" wide SUA conversion. I'm still in the dimension info gathering mode to make sure they will fit my D44 w. MT springs. Here's a couple of links where you can get these plates: https://www.yotamast...-u-bolt-plates/ http://www.ruffstuff...alog/R2198.html EDIT: I have found out since that the the RuffStuff Specialties u-bolt hole dimensions are: "Width wise (across the spring) it's 4 7/8" center hole to center hole. Lengthwise it's 3 3/4" center hole to center hole but then are elongated to fit multiple axle tube diameter's. These plates are drilled to accept 5/8" u-bolts." I plan on modifying my existing u-bolt plates with a welded on angle iron leaf pack cradle on the top surface of my existing u-bolt plates since there is enough real estate to do it. Thanks to 1989 comanche mj for giving me the angle iron idea.

Welcome. Yes, you have to use an external host like Photobucket to post pictures here. Since you're transplanting a 91 HO engine into a Renix 89, which system are you going to use?

Last year of the 3.8 - entirely different animal. I never had a 3.8 JK so :dunno: .

The 727 Torqueflite was one of the best AT's ever made. It couldn't be killed, and is still used today.

What year is yours Dirty? On my 12 and 15 it stays off all the time.

At least then it's only the traction control that's trying to kill you. "NO, NO, THROTTLE! THROTTTTTTLE!!!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAACK!!!!" as it senses wheel slip when trying to pull onto the highway and reacts by cutting throttle while applying the brakes. :doh: That's an optional menu item easy to turn off. Which it always has been.

That's the 9-speed tranny, si? It was a POS from the beginning and still is. WTF do you need nine speeds for anyhow? Or FWD? :yes: I'm sticking with the JK's............

It was installed at Hesco while I was there on a new build. The Mopar "silent" timing set was optional with extra cost; the Cloyes set was the standard offering for the strokers. Needless to say it was a lot tighter than the original roller set. It's a little noisier now than when it was new but it has ~70K on it, so I figure that's normal. Stating the obvious, Mopar (and Ford, GM, and all the others) outsource their manufacturing a lot more nowadays. What used to be genuine Mopar (whatever that means) is not always the case. I needed a coil in a hurry awhile back, went to the dealer and opened the Mopar box and stamped on the Mopar coil was "Made in China". I didn't buy it. I like to think that if it comes in a Mopar box and it's aftermarket, the QC during development and manufacturing is tighter than an aftermarket part. Maybe wishful thinking though...

Yeah, the 64-link "silent" chains and sprockets are supposed to be stronger than the 93 and below 48-link roller chains. I have the Mopar silent chain FWIW. It's not silent either. :yes:

Not necessarily. You can use "thick" gears and keep your TracLok or whatever carrier. Works well. :thumbsup:

Do I hear an echo?? :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

Those JK shackles are for XJs and will give an MJ ~1/4" of lift over the stock shackles. The reason the PO drone installed them "backwards" on the MJ was so you could grease them. I'd either reverse them and drill and tap another 1/4x20 hole for a Zerk fitting, or junk them and install the F150 shackles.

I got this printout from Daimler Chrysler for my 91 awhile back. It matches the paper build sheet found in the vehicle. Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Group Customer Assistance Center. *A2 - Vinyl Bench Seat w/Integral H'rest -SA - Charcoal ALA - SE Decor Group ALK - Value Plus LE Group APAS - Monotone Paint BAFP - 130 Amp Alternator BCYP - 95 Amp Battery BGAS - Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CBAP - Straight Back Bench Seat CKA - Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area DGB - All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DGSS - 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHAS - Lock-Up Torque Converter DHTP - Elec,Shift-on-the-Fly,P/Time T/Case DMDS - 3.55 Axle Ratio DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle ERH - 4.0L Power Tech I-6 Engine GACS - Tinted Glass Windows GBBS - Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS - Front Door Tinted Glass GEC - Front Left Side Sliding Window GRZP - Left Remote Mirror GSZP - Right Remote Control Mirror GTZ - Manual Remote Mirrors HAA - Air Conditioning JAZS - Analog Instrument Cluster JCAS - 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JJAA - Cigar Lighter KWXS - No description found K3ZS - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LBCS - Glove Box Lamp LMAS - Halogen Headlamps MBJA - Black Front Bumper MB1S - Black Front Bumper MDAP - Front License Plate Bracket MFFS - Black Grille MHBS - Bright Windshield Moldings MMCS - Upper Door Frame Moldings MMGS - Belt Moldings MMJS - Molded-In-Color Fender Flares NAAS - Federal Emissions NBKS - EVAP Control System NF5S - 23 Gallon Fuel Tank PS7 - Dark Silver Metallic QS7S - Dark Silver Metallic Clear Coat RAAC - All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAB - AM/FM Radio RCDP - 4 Speakers SBAA - Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCES - 2-Spoke Soft Feel Steering Wheel SFAS - Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS - Rear Shock Absorbers TBCS - Compact Spare Tire TBMS - Tire Carrier Winch TNCA - P195/65R15 BSW AS Touring Tires TZHP - Michelin Brand Tires WJKS - 15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels WLYC - All Steel Wheels XBSS - Pickup Box YAAS - Build To U S Market Specifications YGEA - 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P - Rear Spring Group I Z1AS - GVW/Payload Rating Z59P - Left Front Spring Group Ix Z78P - Right Front Spring Group VIII 1AAS - U.S. Dealer Retail 135S - Zone 35-Washington 3VQA - Customer Preferred Discount 4HC - Special Scheduling Condition III Thanks again for your email. Josh Senior Staff Representative Chrysler Group Customer Assistance Center For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the following information: REFERENCE NUMBER: 15601238 EMAIL CASE NUMBER: 1555430 REPLY LINK: http://www.chrysler.com/wccs/brand_forms/us/reply.jsp?trk_ID=KMM4361465I25261L0KM&

SUA spring plate u-bolt length eliminator. Provides a little more clearance for SUA config :

Mine was inside the bench seat tucked way up in the springs. When I had the seat recovered the upholsterer found it.

I just bought one of those last week for $21 shipped. :yes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222428195151?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Like the man says - you just have to dig. It's helps if you know how to use the parts manuals and search using the factory p/n.

Use a dab of anti-seize putting the new one in.

Have another beer first. :cheers:

The p/n for the a 97 and up 4.0 w. AW4 NSS is 4882173. Prices range anywhere from $300+ for genuine Mopar to $28.66 for a C.R.A.P. on Ebay. I have no idea how the C.R.A.P. will work or how long it will work as I've never used one. As much as I hate C.R.A.P.s for $28.66 shipped I might take a chance.

Yes, the fluid coming from the cooler back into the AW4 will be cooler. Realistically, if your transmission is original and is still shifting as it should be, I wouldn't worry about what your new temp gauge says if it's accurate and the indicated temp doesn't go over ~250*. I put my gauge on the supply line to monitor the transmission incoming fluid. I don't really care what the temp is coming out as long as it's getting cooled properly during the out-to-in transition cycle.

I have heard this before. What is the reasoning behind it? I would think the grease would be good to keep any moisture out. Is it that sensitive that grease causes problems? Dielectric grease is non-conductive and should never be used on electrical contacts. However the NSS contact sliding surfaces should be lubed sparingly with a conductive lubricant like NO-OX-ID or similar. Correct. No T/C lockup = higher RPMs when cruising down the highway. Not good. The NSS should be fixed / replaced.

That's the supply line. Do you have the factory cooler or aftermarket? 220* is a little high, but not dangerous. Mine runs that hot occasionally driving around town in the hot summer, but stays around 180* doing highway cruising with the torque converter locked. Maybe someone else will chime in.........

Where is the temp gauge located? Supply or return lines, pan, ??

Ground wire for what?