HOrnbrod

You can see how they are metered down just before they exit.

I'd have to see it again. Not sure which is the problem for sure. I just know what fixed it I guess. When I do mine, I'll drill out the block port holes for the L & R front wheel cylinder lines. It looks like the channel is big enough on Eagles cutaway block.

Got 'em. Couldn't you fix that with a drill? Or is the circuit channel internal groove at fault?

Hey dickwad, that wasn't necessary.......... Biotch. :yes:

Cruiser, can you post up a pic of your brake line setup? I'm still unclear of exactly what you did.

It's not a prop valve, it's a distribution block. I've got a ZJ prop valve, but won't use it unless I have to......

Yes, this is the plan. Don't know about the "enjoy" part........ Will use a 1/2x20 plug with Teflon tape to seal the distribution block front/lower port; I see no need for hacking off a bolt. IF the rear disks lock too early, then I'll plumb in an adjustable prop valve. Less plumbing and fittings this way. Rear drum and disk configurations are all different and require different amounts of biasing, or maybe none at all. Hoping for the latter........ Thanks guys for all the comments.

Need a little more detail on this statement - I'm listening.........

:hmm:

Was this one of the Amazon Warehouse Deals pumps John?

Yeah Pete, this question has been beat to death. The only given I have now is that I had great rear disk brakes by tuning the adjustable load sensing rod I've had for years; now there are basically zero rear brakes. Bled the crap out of them, and got NO air from the rear calipers. Even bought a Motive pressure bleeder and had the same results as the pedal pump method. I can only assume the load sensing valve is now a no-op clogged fluid flow blocker. I guess the best course course of action is to bypass the load sensing valve by using the existing rear brake line from the front distro block port (instead of running a new one since my brake lines are in great shape) to the rear flex junction, then plug the lower distro block front port, and see if that restores the rear brakes. Then if needed for proper biasing I'll plumb in a Wilwood prop valve on the rear supply line. AAARG - this isn't fun anymore..

Eagle, I know eliminating the height sensing valve doing the above with the stock drums will work fine, but what's your take on how it will bias my Explorer rear disk brakes? I've searched to see if anyone had rear disks and eliminated the load sensing valve but didn't find anything. Would I be better off throwing in a ZJ disk/disk proportioning valve? I'd much rather do it as quoted above if it will bias the rears okay since I'm a lazy bastid nowadays...........

Crap - you're right. Completely forgot about your MJ block cutaway and the segregated circuits. What size was that block front port plug again? 1/2x20?

True, but you know what happens to your brakes when a line breaks w/o a proportioning valve. They disappear...

I'm going to bypass my rear load sensing valve (think it's clogged up and finally died) and replace my existing MJ distribution block with a ZJ proportioning valve (they are set up for front & rear disks) since I have rear disk brakes installed. The picture below is of a 96 booster and proportioning valve. Does the 96-98 ZJ disk/disk proportioning valve have the same port assignments and threads as the pictured XJ proportioning valve? I @$$ume it does, but want to be sure.

P/N checks out correct for MJ, XJ, and ZJ. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=52005739&vehicle=1991-42-348------------4-1

That's the exact reason I got a longbed Gene. For everyday household hauling and occasional construction projects it's the best by far. It sucks for wheeling because of the rear overhang, but for everything else it's better than a shortbed.

Gracias!

Caution - thread hijack! Sure would like to see a pic or two if possible what the air intake through the grille looks like and how it's filtered .

Anyone know where the picture that was posted of the MJ distribution block with the ports labeled is? Can't find it anywhere..............

Couldn't quite make out what it was in the pic, and thanks for the p/n. :cheers: A coupler is perfectly fine in a brake line, but a union and/or compression fittings are definite no-no's.

Nice tidbit Jeff. Now I have a tidbit for you. Grudging congrats to your Pens. I got to see a couple of Preds games this year (it's been a long time since I had attended an NHL game) and really got back into it. Next year for sure..........

Do you have a p/n or specs for the union you used? Or did you mean a coupler fitting?

The HO TB stock 60mm opening should be adequate, but 5-10 more mm would be a lot better.

Interesting - but sounds typical. Why is it that AMC had so many problems with connectors? Seems like most of the sensors' output signals are so weak (mv or less) that the slightest impedance like a connector causes beau coup problems. And age adds corrosion and things get worse.