ratrapp

An easier fix would be to just knock out the studs and just replace them with regular nut and bolts if the studs arent readily available.

Pretty sure they're studs installed in the manifold.They shouldnt be welded.

I worked at a jeep/chrysler dealer from 96-02 and we only seen 1 renix icm fail.I thought that was pretty good.

i didnt know of any carbs but the factory or the weber kit.i would gladly adapt something else or if could find one of the older 4 barrel intakes i would put one of my spare holley sniper kits on it.i can't find any 4 barrel manifolds anywhere.i know they discontinued them several years ago at edelbrock and probably don't blame them.

i replaced mine with a weber carb kit but truthfully i am less than impressed wth it.but i havent had time to really adjust on it yet either.

if the bolts loosen on the intake side then yes it can cause running problems.exhaut leaks close to the o2 sensor can cause probelms as well.cleaning the tb will only affect idle.it has no effect whatsoever as far as the actually running.if it carbons up on the blades or the sides it can affect idle or cause a sticky throttle but thats it.its not like the newer vehicles with electric throttle control.a bad tps can cause running problems but cleaning the tb itself won't.just like your iac valve it only controls idle functions like cold start up,a/c kicking on etc.

can it be done by a beginner?yes but the only thing that really can be a problem is if the manifold bolts break off.usually its either the very front or very rear bolt that breaks on the exhaust side.the gasket itself is pretty inexpensive but shop time could range between 2-4 hours billable if any bolts break then of course that would be extra.if its only leaking on the exhaust side then that may not effect the running of it.

i thought about ordering the gauge sending unit for an 86 s10 or sblazer but i havent yet.i wasnt sure if the resistance for the sensors would be the same.my cluster came out of a 4.0 jeep and don't know if the 2.8 cluster needs a different resistance switch to read correctly.

I'm going through the same thing myself.i think most catalogs list the 4.0 sending unit instead since the 2.8 was the first and only available in 86.i have been toying with idea trying to find an adapter to use the 4.0 sending unit in the 2.8.

well unless hes actually worked on older mjs or xjs the i would avoid a dealership since most of the techs probably there now have never worked on a 4.0.a good garage would like to know what you've done so they know where to look because obviously since you cleaned your injectors it hasnt run right,correct?i own a garage and yes i very rarely install customer parts for several reasons.1st is ususally the customer buys cheap crap off of amazon or ebay that may or may not be good and then they aske me to warranty parts they bought.if i sell someone something all the local stores i deal with stand behind it and usually give me a labor claim.2nd thing is yes most garages do mark up parts to stay in business including myself.i could charge the cost of parts but i would just have to increase my labor rate.

if you get it towed to somebody please tell them exactly what you've done andvwhat you've replaced.it will help them.we have to interrorgate customers to pull the truth out of them.

i think m/c rebuild kits have been mostly done away with.its like wheel cylinder kits.hardly nobody rebuilds those and for the price difference most of the time i don't think its worth it.

I'm not sure it would even start if you had them reversed.i may be wrong but i thought they were 2 different size lines.somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

i would try it.and i wouldnt worry about slotting/modifying it.this is what happens when you have a problem and just start replacing things.you end up with more problems than you started with.i just fixed a customers car that had a broken ground wire on the coil harness.he replaced both cam solenoids and sensors because of a no spark condition.i told him the best thing to do is put his oem stuff back on sice there was no problem with it before.

well if you still have the original cps i would reinstall it and hard wire it.once again if it ran fine before look back at what you replaced or worked on.it possible the o2 sensor could be stuck so if you just unplug it you can eliminate that.also tps could be out of adjustment or just going bad.at least you have it idling now.

this may sound like alot of work but if the front three don't seem to making much difference when you unplug them i would take the fuel rail back off and swap the front three with the back three and see if the front three cylinders start showing a difference.if it does then the injectors are bad,if not then you have other problems.if it ran fine before you done this then i would try this.ive learned over the years that if its not broke then don't fix it lol.

if your holding fuel pressure and the pressure is in spec i think you could rule out the pump.how did you go about cleaning the inectors?i have a friend that actually has an injector flush machine that cleans and flows them.cps are pretty sensitive on the 4.0s.i don't know what brand you used but i do think the oems are discontinued for the renix unless you can find a nos one.

did it run like this originally or did this start when you swapped the injectors?truthfully it may be time to let someone else look at it.there is no shame in it.I'm afraid theres only so much members can tell you to try or check without being there.

is it possible the front three arent plugged up in the right order?or maybe the intake gasket has a vacuum leak around the front cylinders?

the nexen roadian a/t is also a very good tire for the money.

i havent heard of people doing that before but its possible .it could work.you could check into that.i like the smoke machine because it pumps smoke into the system.ive seen people you shop vacs flipped in reverse to check for exhaust leaks using soap and water mixed in a squirt bottle.it may be a little more difficult to find vacuum leaks with this method.

yes thats exactly what I'm talking about.check the manifold for cracks(pretty common for 4.0).if the manifold gasket itself is leaking it can cause it to run rough being the exhaust and intake share the same gasket.i have a smoke machine i bought off of amazon.its the autool brand i think.i wasted money before buying a pos one off of ebay that is made from an old paint sprayer that was a waste of money.the smoke machine is invaluable for finding exhaust and vacuum leaks.

by the video,it sounds like an exhaust leak on the manifold but i could be wrong.it kind of sounded like it was trying to idle alittle better as it was running.i think 30 psi may be on the low end of the scale but i think its acceptable.you could try unhooking the injectors 1 at a time and see if it idles worse or stays the same.if it stays the same at least you know which cylinders are giving you problems.you could unplug the spark plug wires one at a time as well but the injectors won't give you a shock.

my rear prop valve was bad on mine.i never could get a good pedal until i bypassed the valve.i replaced wheel cylinders,master cylinder,hoses and lines until i finally bypassed the valve.

I'm definitly buying some when they come out.its all thats really keeping my from getting my 86 on the road.