garmj

It ptobably wasnt designed to carry ANY dog food cause over there dogs ARE food. :D But seriously i would like to see a quad cab version powered by the 3.7. I love that motor I have it in my 04 Dakota and have no complaints. I just wana Jeep. :nuts:

I will have to settle for poormans chrome (silver paint), I would powdercoat it chrome but it won't fit in my oven.Real chrome is way outa my budget. :D I plan later to do a 4x4 conversion as soon as a cheap donor comes up. BTW the roll bar cost $30.00 from a guy on Craigslist. :bowdown:

I love it. I want one. Where do I sign? Will they take my Dakota on trade? :D

If they sold that truck here in the USA I would beat the doord down at my local dealer to get one. My wife and I bought a new CJ-8 in 1982 and loved it, we still miss it. If you build it they will come. :banana:

Actually the roll bar is for mounting aux lights will tie it in later when I do a 4x4 conversion. I havent put the truck on the road as of yet as it is still a work in progress, I am doing it a little at a time a money, parts and time become available.Looking to make a nice daily driver when I am done. I plan to meet with all locals when she is ready for the road. :clapping:

New addition Roll Bar. What do you think? Thinking about painting it silver to match the truck. I also have 4 Dick Cepec offroad lights coming. 8)

Maybe he can engineer a way so it won't leak oil out of the rear main. GENERAL MOTORS can't. :fs1:

Best thing you can do is locate an XJ as a canabal queen that has the same motor as you have. Locating a 94 or newer isnt neccesary. Retrofit parts are available and cheap,no matter what a new drier is mandatory,once exposed to moisture in the air they are done.Take the entire dash including ducts,controls,temp cable,wiring,complete A/C case,hoses,vacuum hoses,compressor,condensor all brackets and fasteners.Drain all the old A/C oil out of all components and add 8 oz. of oil to the compressor,install retrofit fittings and vacuum the system down and recharge with 75% of the recomended A/C charge with R134a.Additional condensor fans are great if available and may be needede to make it work at optimun efficiency.I am ASE certified in A/C and any questions you have feel free to PM me. PS if you live in a climate like I do it iis definatly worth the effort. Good Luck

Is there a name for these wheels?

Actually what I was referring to was POR-15 or another one called Os-Pho they turn the rust into a sealed and paintable surface. Best thing is to sandblast, repair, prime and paint.

I really like the Quad Cab Longbed version kinda reminds me of my Dakota.

Do yourself a favor and pull up that foam and rubber on the drivers side and see if there is rust around the fuse block and pedal area. Then grind,wirebrush and sand all rusted areas use rust convertor and apply a roll on bed liner to the area involved. Treating the underside aint a bad idea too. Image Not Found See above.

don't even mess with an old heater core (unless you LIKE to tear the dash out ) A new one cost me $35.00 from a local jobber.Muriatic acid will eat up the solder joints and the copper, if you were going to have a leak itwill be sooner than later.

Its not possable to do a heater core without discharging the A/C. (unless you use a chainsaw ) The entire A/C Heater case has to be removed to access the top cover which has to be removed to get to the heater core.If anyone replaces the heater core or evap core they should replace the other. The part is much cheaper than the labor to take it apart again.The life span of a chrysler design evap is only 4-5 years ,best to go on and replace it .Just did mine altho the A/C was cold on inspection a small leak was detected. Glad I did.

:agree: Steam will go places water will never get to,I even go as far as washing engines when they are cold as not to create steam.Hot water doesnt clean any better than cold.I try to stay away from the throttle body area and the distributor a little splash is ok just don't drown them. A clean engine is a happy engine. :D

Sounds like you got a wiper switch fixin to go south,I have a whole column non tilt including all switches and key for sale CHEAP if you wanna go that way.BTW non delay wipers have no module,switch pluds directly into the harness.

I worked for a used car lot for 20+ years and we used Simple Green Or Purple Power full strenght and a pressure washer or a comercial high pressure car wash.Allways worked. Try to stay away from electronics and the distributor but they can be dried out with compressed air and WD-40.

Fly over was awsome F16s @ less than 500 ft right over the front of my house. KOOL :cheers:

Right before the game I will walk out my front door and watch the pre game fly over ( I live less than 2 miles south of the stadium) then I will go inside and grab a cold one and watch the game on TV. Got my super bowl provisions last night don't want to be on the streets here today,roads blocked and all that traffic. BTW the temp here is 68 degrees and pretty nice . Enjoy the game guys.

Seen those before,either a module for aftermarket cruise control ar an aftermarket alarm system.

I am into that Doors, Hendrix,early 70s rock kinda thing mixed with a good measure of Oldies.

Just because your heater is working doesnt mean your thermostat is working, it only controls waterflow to the radiator not the heater core. There is no substitutefor a real temp gage.

If you are going to all the trouble to remove the head send it to a machine shop for Magnaflux (check for cracks),have it resurfaced(make sure its flat and will seal),and do a valve job with new valve seals. It will cost a hundred or so but its money well spent. You could otherwise put it back together and have the same problem or worse. BTDT

I have a 2004 Dakota with the same 3.7 V6 that the Liberty has I get 16 in town and 21 Hwy,32 k and zero problems.

I know they don't.The statement was made that it was a Federal requirement and it is not.