garmj

Towing a 91 Xj 4x4 on a tow dolly for about 40 miles am I ok without removing the rear driveshaft. I won't be going over 50 for short periods. I just don't wana hurt the tranny or transfer case. BTW its an automatic, going to be a donor for the 4x2 2.5 comanche.

And to think all off the years I have spent in the business and I thought I had an open Differential. :dunno: Now I know what one really looks like. :???: :huh???:

BTW use the PH strips on the coolant and the water before you install it. You can flush the cooling sytem with water and baking soda to neutralize the system then install a mix of coolant and distilled water (if you have crappy water) and you will be good to go. I have seen this problem in Fl because of well water. Hope this helps.

Electrolysis is created by dissimilar metals used in the cooling system such as aluminum,steel,cast iron and copper. It is always present in a cooling system. With proper maintanance and proper coolant corrosion problems are unheard of in a 2 month period of time. Since we are talking about 12v insulated from the outside world (sitting on rubber tires) this would be an very minor problem. The PH of the coolant would be a greater issue,acidicty or alkalinity will act much faster on weaker metals,there are test strips available to test this.I would look there first,could be the water you are using or a contaminated coolant .

This aint my first rodeo. What I was reffering to was the holes where the wiring,cables and hoses go thru. I totally agree that seam sealer is a great fix for body seam leaks but where my orignal problem came from was leaks around the fuse block and the a/c case. Seam seal won't work there.

I had a van once that someone filled all the areas behind the inside panels with that expandable foam and it literally caused the outside metal to rust completely away from the inside (in Florida). If you plan on keeping your truck I wouldnt do that. :no:

When I did my rust repair I gutted the entire cab wiring,dash,A/C case insulation and everything else. I did all repairs then applied spray on bedliner and undercoating. When I reinstalled everything I ran a bead of RVT silicone around all the holes and on each component and let it set up overnight, then I reinstalled everything. NO LEAKS :bowdown: Good Luck

You could try inflating the spare with Helium altho it might create rear traction problems. :smart: Hydrogen would also help but if you were in a rear end collision your Mj may end up looking like the Hindenburg. :nuts:

Damn if the old lady had a job I'd get one right now. :fs1:

BTW my truck is a 2.5 2wd, I am looking for a little more clearance between the 235/75/15 tires and the factory fender flares. I have installed spring spacers in front just wana bring the rear up level,2" should do it. This truck won't see any offroad duty except to the brush dump. Thanks Guys

Will 2" lift shackels from a XJ fit on a MJ and will it lift a MJ and how much? Looking to go up a couple of inches in the rear to level out the truck.

Somewhere I saw a grill guard/brush guard for sale that bolted to the top of the stock bumper.it leaned forward at an angle and had tabs for lights on it. Just looking for something to keep my grill from getting broke in light brush and a place to mount a couple of lights. I don't need a heavy front bumper nor can I afford one right now. Any help as who sell these would be appreciated.

There is a guy on Ebay who sells complete headliners, ready to install for a little over $100. I bought one and it looks Factory. Search Comanche headliner on Ebay Motors.

I have a 90 Mj with a 2.5 and parted out a 90 4.0 I kept the alternator cause it was new and I can definatly tell you the alternators are different. So I am selling the 90 4.0 alternator.

I you are running that much load that you need an alternator with more than 100 amps you need to COMPLETELY rewire your entire truck with heavier wires, fuses, circuit breakers relays, and switches.Dual Batteries will supply the load but what are you going to charge them with? I have a nearly new rebuilt alt from Autozone that works perfect I will let go for $40+ shipping will put out 14.2v under load. Good Cables no replacement ends,good grounds and clean connections are a must.BTDT Adding a big alt on aweak electrical system will get you nowhere. Good Luck

Thats what I thought.This clown is trying to play us for whatever he can get. The naive salesman buys into all his BS, I called the guy in on this today and told him I wanted the NY statue stating the regs on sunvisors. Then he said he didnt want to look it up but would be willing to pay for them if we could get them for him. :rotfl2: PEOPLE!!! :nuts:

I am in Florida and work for a used car dealer. We took a 1994 Nissan Sentra on trade, cleaned up and sold it to a visitor from NY who intends on taking it back home.The car when we got it had a new headliner but the sun visors were missing they even covered the holes. The guy pays for the car,leaves and comes back the next day stating the visors are missing and NY won't pass it on inspection because of the visors (a safety issue?) don't they sell sunglasses up there? I can understand lights,brakes ,steering etc. but sunvisors? Have any of you heard of this? :dunno:

My dad wasnt a car guy and I didnt have a mentor till I was 30 (i worked on cars since I was 17). I met a neighbor who was associated with AMC in the racing division who could build anything.He was 25 years older than me. He taught me countless things about cars,fabrication ,racing and life in general. He passed away last Halloween and I really miss him,and I credit my knoledge to his guidance. You can learn a lot in 24 years.here's to you my friend. Godspeed Ed Donnell

I work for a used car dealer and we use Maaco or Econo Auto Painting. They will lay a real decent paint job for under $200 + body work. The body work aint bad and you can negotiate with them.Meet the painter and throw him a $20 he will put a lil extra paint on it. They use Nason brand paint and if you keep wax on it it will hold up quite a while. I painted my truck myself and have over $250.00 in materials alone.

You could always convert the front brakes to drum brakes. :smart:

Thanks I can't seem to get these photos right. I check the box of the pic copy the img box and insert it in the brackets between the IMG and IMG and the pic url shows but no pic. :dunno: :???:

Now Painted with 130 watt Dick Cepek lights[/img] Got 2 more lights coming to mount on front bumper. [/img]

Complete, everything, brake cables, brake lines, etc etc. Colorado is nice since nothing is rusty. The 03 is particularly clean. I don't know where you are in Colorado but my boss once bought a F150 4X4 that spent its 12000 mile life as an airport maintanance truck. Its the rustiest truck I have ever seen. Not only was the frame rusted thru but the shock brackets were rusted off the rear end. The body itself was perfect he didnt bother to look under it tho. :nuts:

Sellers on Ebay are outa control. Last week I bid on a set of tie rod ends with a starting bid of .99 I bid $7.45(plus $30.55 shipping) with 4 days to go the bid remained @ .99 till the auction got down to less than 12 hours to go the seller cancelled my bid and said the item was no longer available. :fs1: I researched the item and found he had it on sale for like $70.00 I tried and he had blocked my bid.Needless to say I reported this to Ebay and they did nothing. BTW avoid Net Auto Parts at all cost he can't seem to pay by the rules. :no:

The kid I bought it fom said it came from an S-10 P.U.( he didnt know if it was a long or a short bed) :dunno: He traded it on a new Silverado so I assume it was a fairly late model judging by the cars in his driveway. It will need some minor mods done to the rear legs,mainly shaping the mounting plates to conform the shape of the wheelwells.No big deal. I will post more pics when I get it bolted down and lights installed.