yellaheep

Find a local Craigslist ad for a '92 2wd 4cyl Sport Truck. Running but in rough condition. Pics show a decent bed and tailgate. Asking $550. I e-mail the guy and tell him I'll take it.... Sight unseen. Give him my cell number asking him to call/txt to set up a time. A day later he texts saying "bad title issues. Gonna scrap it for $300" I text back telling him I don't care about the title and that I'm a Comanche nut looking for parts to fix my own and other trucks to restore and preserve them. I beg him to not scrap it and I'd still give him the $550....... Another day goes by and I text again and he replies "I scrapped it". Gawd I hate people like this.

Shameful. Help an MJ brother....... don't rob him..... I've got several hoarded just for this reason. $30 for one, $50 for a pair shipped.

Not a fan at all of the Libby's roofline. Looks like a cone head. I would sell all of my rigs for that new J10. And I've always wanted to lift/modify one of those eagles. I wonder how hard it'd be to swap in an OBD II H.O. Engine/trans.......

Spare tire. Wire tie a door key to the cable and your spare tire conceals the key. Borrow anyone's OEM lug wrench to lower your spare and get your key.

Is that in the Andersen's U-pull/pay in Minden?

Um...... Are you looking to pay for shipping? Or just local? Where are you located? Need ALL parts for a color change? Or just certain parts to fix yours?

GAWD I want that.......... Those fenders are the aftermarket mold version, not the same as were put on as a dealer option by Jeep so I gotta say it's a later in life modified truck. Drachir's truck will be getting those same fenders...... and honestly, they're the better looking fenders. The Jeep ones didn't compliment the body lines very well and had an arched wheel opening. Wonder what kind of headaches are involved with buying a vehicle in Mexico and bringing it into the U.S........... besides the absolute fear of heading into Tijuana with a wad of cash and my gringo-keester expecting to leave with the truck..... :nuts:

Black Eliminators no less...... :yes:

$750. He was asking $1500.

Forgot about this thread....... Got another Eliminator........ Details here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=34498&p=361842#p361842

Update: The blue '89 long bed found a new owner - his thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=36601 Thought I'd be able to keep myself to 2 little 'ol MJs........ Oops........ I did it again. Found another '91 Eliminator I just had to rescue. She's a project and needs TLC but she's got very good bones. Previous owner had it since '97. 2 years ago, it threw the #1 rod cap pulling a hill in the mountains. The tow home wasn't kind to it either as the tow strap was looped around the front unibody crossmember under the radiator. A couple slack-snaps of the strap and the front bumper bent in a "V" upwards busting the header panel and wrecking the A/C condenser. He bought an XJ, borrowed a few of the MJ's parts (fenders, glass, mirror, small parts) then decided he couldn't keep it and restore it. He threw a couple of Certifit fenders on it but they're 1/2" too short (typical) so they're scrap fodder. It sat in Fountain, CO. a few miles south west of the Pikes Peak International Raceway in that arid, desert-like sand dune area where nothing but cactus and goathead thorny plants grow...... and as such, she's pretty weathered...... but NOT rusty. :thumbup: The bed is in great condition as are the tail gate and tail lights..... and it's got a trailer hitch!!!! (Very rare to find these and no one makes them any more.) Unfortunately, the Eliminator wheels are long gone. It doesn't have a D44 rear axle, and it does have a disco D30 (build date 6/90 - 91 build dates got non-discos). The dash is cracked and the paint is a hodge-podge of rattle can "repair" spots so she ain't real pretty. The rear bumper is fubar too. The topper has bad cracking to the gel coat so it's likely junk. Brakes don't work either. But, she does have A/C and cruise, the full skid plate package, the seats and carpet and interior trim are all in good shape. The floors are rust free and she's sporting an old-school "Black Diamond" 3" lift kit. Initial plans are to find an engine for it, replace the bent cross member, put matching tires/wheels on it........ and probably strip the front clip from my keeper '91 to put on this one, then do the '97+ header & fenders on mine.... it makes sense since the winch bumper I have for mine would require cutting the fenders, where it wouldn't if it were sporting late model fenders....... so why cut good, color matching fenders when they can be used on this one? Anyway, pics: Found out why the brakes weren't working..........:rolleyes: Image Not Found Sitting with better wheels and 30" roller tires..........

I'm just glad that almost side-boob remained almost................. :ack:

Where is Fountain Valley? Need all 4 flares?

What Eagle said isn't wrong..... but I'll argue that the earlier header panels will still work with the 91 thru 96 trim pieces. :thumbsup:

It's the engine management systems that will help determine what works and what doesn't...... The '94 is OBD I. The '96 and up jeeps were OBD II. Most of the differences where this is concerned are concentrated in the intake manifold and what components/sensors are mounted to it.... Such as MAP sensor location.... '94 was on the firewall, '97+ are on the throttle body. Another issue is power steering bracket mounting to these different intake manifolds over the years. If you retain the '94 intake you'll need the P/S parts from the '94 as the Renix stuff won't work. If you use the '97+ intake you'll need the P/S stuff from that donor as the Renix and '94 stuff won't work. Wiring connector compatibility is a whole other mess. '96 -'97 were big transition years as Jeep worked on conforming to OBD II standards. For instance.... the coil for a '97 won't work on a '96, nor will it work on a '98 all because of different harness connectors. Same fot the transmission control module.... '97 is a one year only application for the TCM. Throttle body sensors have connector differences as well between '96 to '01. Your's really isn't a simple question to answer. Telling us your 180k mile engine is "'97+" still leaves too many possibilities for parts incompatibility as there are differences between '97 - '01.

I dunno what starkizer is smoking...... But any header panel '84 - '96 can be made to work...... The body lines are the same. It's the mounting hardware that differs. '84 - '86 bolt to the fenders a little differently than '87 - '96. Some minor differences in bezel/grill pieces and how they screw on as well..... But again, it can all be made to work. Body lines changed in '97 - '01. To answer the original poster's question, a '91 - '96 header panel will be a direct replacement for his '92.

NEVERMIND. I CALLED TO GET MORE DETAILS AND IT'S SOLD.

This one needs the J.C. Whitney removal kit in a bad way but looks like a steal! Low miles too..... if I didn't already have 2 Eliminators, a Cherokee, a rock buggy, a '46 Oldsmobile and our daily drivers...... I'd be all over this one. :wall: ***If anyone in Colorado buys this, I've got a near perfect matching red tail gate to replace the drilled/screwed/dented one on this truck - lemme know.*** http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/3168834499.html

Damn. Red, green, silver and orange...... really? It's like Burger King and the N.Y. Jets went in together on a promotional vehicle.... What a shame. Far from any "preservation" by my definition but whatever. That truck would have been SICK in it's original color...... But hey........ the important thing is that it's being fixed, and enjoyed. For that I give ya props. :thumbsup:

Hey..... Look who made it over here to Comanche Club! That truck spent the better part of 5 years in the back lot of a tow yard and was headed for the scrapper. Glad you're enjoying it and its back on the road. :thumbsup:

I too agree with hornbrod. Same arguement can be said for pretty much anything people are willing to pay for. No reason to be angry with the gorgeous 20-something female stripper........ makin' big bank for something she has that lots of people want to see. Although I'm not sure using this auction as an example for an insurance claim is gonna work well......... it'll just get your junk totalled that much quicker I'm thinking. :dunno:

Good gawd......... that's hideous. Looks like a Ford Courier. Or an old Falcon/Ranchero......... ick.

I hear ya about "white body" shocks....... was hoping Heckethorns were better than the generics made by Deutsch Tech for all the other cheap companies. My MJ will be 90% daily driver, street driven and only rarely used on the easier trails in Colorado. I have a buggy for the hard stuff and an XJ on 35's for the moderate stuff. So, If the Heckethorn/Rough Country shocks give a good ride/good street characteristics without riding like a buckboard like Pro Comp 3000's and Rancho's do, then the Rough Country 8000's would probably fit the bill. Anyone have them and can elaborate on the on-road performance of these? What really chaps my hide is that I REALLY like the Rubicon Express twin tube shocks - I have them on my XJ. I called Rubicon and they don't have any listing for MJ's for any of their shocks. They told me to call them with measurements and they'd match some up. That don't do me much good when I need them when I install the lift, not after.

I've actually had this happen to me as well. Like abyx said, if you remove the shifter with it engaged in a gear slot, the shift arms inside can move/be bumped out of alignment when pulling the shifter out..... which makes trying to re-install the shifter a real pain. Remembering to put the shifter into neutral before removal keeps this from happening. I simply used a long, sturdy, larger flat blade pry bar to move the shift arms to get them into the neutral position and then I was able to insert the shifter.

The simple solution is just get a pair of fairly long chain link lengths. Run them through the spoke of each wheel and around the leaf packs then lock 'em. A friend of mine had a similar issue and his idea kills a few birds with one "stone" so to speak. His car trailer always sits out and he too had all 4 of his tires/wheels/hubs stolen. His solution: His trailer has full fenders, the lower ends of the fenders are secured to 2"x2" square tube supports that come out to the ends of the fenders. He drilled a 1/2" hole down from top to bottom of the 2x2's about an inch from the outside ends. He then built 2x2 square tube bars with ends that had 1/2"x2" flat strap welded above and below each end of the 2x2 bars at a 90 degree angle so that the bars could be attached and sit across and close/snug to both tires/axles, keeping them from being removed if the lug nuts were removed. He attached the bars to the 2x2 fender supports with 1/2" locking hitch pins. He painted his locking bars bright orange. So, for example, where the fender is welded to angle steel in this pic, my buddy's trailer has 2x2. Envision a 2x2 bar across the tires between the two fender supports, secured to the two fender supports: While it doesn't keep the trailer from being towed away, it does keep the tires/wheels where they belong. He said he thought about adding lengths of 2" round tube to the insides of the bars that could sit inside the holes of his wheels to keep the wheels from turning, but that would require some lifting of the trailer to turn the wheels to line them up to the tubes but if it were going to sit unused for a while, it'd be worth it. I've seen this done as well, but it's a bit time consuming to do on a large, low sitting trailer with brake drums....... ...... hopefully that made sense.