zackcj7

Short bed, 4.0l, 4x4, Auto. Dark grey exterior, blue-grey interior. Tail gate is in great shape.

Make sure you check your battery cables and check to make sure you're getting voltage to the solenoid when the key is in start. My TJ is doing the same thing. It's been turning over slow when warm. But can sit all week in the garage and start up fine. I went to pick up my daugher from school today and got a single click when I tried to start it. Luckily I was parked on a slight hill so I was able to roll start it. Battery is good and I just checked and cleaned all the battery connections last weekend. Looks like i'll have to pull the starter this weekend.

Thanks guys. I sent the seller an email. Hopefully he still has them. My driver's side door panel is in very poor shape. If I get them i'll have to find the woodgrain dash pieces to match.

I found a set of grey Cherokee Country door panels for sale close to me. They are the ones with the wood grain insert and are in good shape. Will these swap in place of my factory '88 door panels? I realize I will have to make a hole for the window crank, but will the door lock/latch and armrest position line up? Will the colors match? This is a photo of a Country door panel This is my interior What do you guys think?

Easy fix on the tires rubbing. Just adjust the steering stops on the knuckles.

Easiest way is to open an account on photobucket, upload your pics to your new account, then copy the link with the type IMG and paste it into your post.

Unbolt the track bar at the frame side before you install the springs.

I really need one old style 33 x 12.50 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T-A KM.

I repaired mine with duct tape. It actually worked pretty well.

Truck looks great!

Looks like you guys picked a good weekend. That's a great area, my parents live close to Helen.

Small update. Got my high idle problem fixed. Installed a new TPS and adjusted it. It's running great now. Also picked up some parts. A pair of 32 11.50 BF Goodrich all terrains and an 8.8 rear with 4:56 gears swapped in.

How much, if any did the 8.8 swap change your ride height in the rear? Being spring under did the thicker tubes noticeably lower it any?

Love the seat. I see i'm not the only one who repaired my old headliner backer with duct tape.

Have you seen the new Duralast Platinum batteries? They are AGM and sealed. I put one in my TJ to replace my dead Optima. So far it's doing great.

I'm considering selling the 8.8 rear out of my '86 MJ. It's ready to bolt into a MJ and is complete with brakes and driveshaft flange adapter. It also has a full Detroit locker, 4.88 gears, welded on shock tabs, and a diff cover guard. What do you guys think it's worth?

Are you still interested in a set of the Cherokee Country door panels with the wood? I found a Craigslist post here in GA with a set for sale. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/3902796118.html I could probably pick them up from the guy and ship them to you if you're interested.

Removing the rusted pieces of the floorboards? I usually use a cut-off tool. Harbor Freight or Northern Tool sells some cheap cut-off tools that do a decent job. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-high-speed-air-cutter-47077.html Just make sure you don't cut into the fuel lines. They run right under the driver's floorboard.

What gear ratio is it?

I ended up going this route and ordered all of the parts except for a couple already. Gonna also use 1" coil spacers just to level it out. Anyone know anything else about this lift? I'm using a couple parts of the lift in the thread. But I had some leftover parts from other Jeep projects that I used for a lot of it. I prefer to use adjustable control arms instead of the drop brackets. But they can be pricey unless you get lucky and find a deal. Definitely get an adjustable track bar. Since you already have a lift you can replace a little at a time and it will be less of a shock to your wallet. Be prepared to inspect and replace any defective bushings as you go. Looks like you have a couple that are in rough shape. That's probably what's causing most of your rough ride.

The positive side is next on the list. But I need to order some red jacket 2 gauge welding cable first.

Got a little more work done the last two weekends. Replaced the valve cover gasket and cleaned up the valve cover and rocker arm area. Also replaced my vacuum harness and did some work on the engine bay grounding. It's hard to tell form the pic, but I replaced the factory negative battery cable with 2 gauge welding cable and crimp on ends. I cleaned the surfaces really well and also ran another 2 gauge from the dipstick post to the engine ground post on the firewall. I cleaned the firewall ground really well also. Hopefully that will help with the lacking factory grounding system.

What kind of off road? Just simple trails or hard technical trails? Are you planning to go with bigger tires than 32s some day? If you give us more details about what you plan to use the truck for we will be able to give more specific advice. Also your budget. Check out this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/ Even if you don't go this route there is a lot of good info about what it takes to lift a Comanche in the thread.

Did adding the foam to the bench help? My bench is in great shape, but when I sit in the drivers spot I sink a good 4 inches. The passenger side still sits like new. :) And before any comments about going on a diet I only weigh 160.

Where are you rubbing? Looks like you probably rub on the back corners of the front fenders. Looks like your coil spring isolating bushing on the top of the coils is about to fall apart. You can buy replacements that add a little lift. That may help you in the front. Looks like an add-a-leaf in the back. Can't see the shackle, but maybe a shackle lift as well. If it was me i'd buy Hell Creek lift springs for the rear to replace the add-a-leaf pack. On the front i'd add a coil spring spacer to give a little more lift. Then I would add some adjustable control arms to push the front axle forward and recenter it in the wheel well. Aside from that just replace any parts that look worn out.