BPB

Pete :bowdown: I like that. I will weld quarter inch plating to the frame I an then going to have the tubing come straight off of that. I want to be able to integrate rockrails into the hoop around the back of the cab. To answer the tubing question. I am using 1.75" 120 wall DOM tubing. I am also going to the bottoms of the X go from the top of the frame to the adjacent corner. What is the difference between what I am planning on and a fuel cell?

This is what i am working with. A 1990 Jeep Comanche, Never mind the rear bumper, I broke it so i am going to remove it. This is the basic idea of my build. Diagram A is the part that goes right behind the cab, I am going to run it a little above the cab so that I can add a front exo later. Am I going to need to reinforce the frame where it mounts? If so what are your suggestions? Diagram B is from the back. The blue is the frame. The red is where it mounts to the frame. What do you guys think, Any suggestions? Next question I started building myself a bumper before I wrecked my truck, the bumper is the width of the bed made out of 3/16 wall 2x5. Should I use it as a base in the back? like diagram B, or should I build something new that is narrower? Mind you that I am going to full widths. I am going to add fenders later so that it is streetable.

TOOLS AS EXPLAINED BY AN ENGINEER (This Explains TOOLS better than I've EVER Heard) DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh $#!&' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50-cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as leather seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. (embarrassing as it is, I've used this also) DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

well it has been a while, after the carnage I decided to tube out the rear of my mj. maybe add a small flat bed. I decided to give my liver and the bartender a break and I finally took the bed off. Here a a couple quick picks, I will take more when i am home in day light an have it out of my carport. Here is my gas tanks new home. that is 3/16 x 2 it is just tacked in place at the moment I am having a diamond plate box built to go over it. all plumbed in with new fuel lines temporary hillbilly gas cap, od green duck tape dana 35 soon to be replaced by something bigger and wider I picked up a rear soundbar from a 95 xj, that will go in the cab when i get a chance

he'll be assassinated by some angry clan member before my next pay day, so, yes you are right!!! Oh, and thanks for the info I'll go with 1.75.

Will 120 wall 1 1/2" DOM be thick enough for a roll cage? It is going to be pretty extensive.

My next project is to tube out the back of my mj. I thight that it would look cool to have the radiator on the back cage.

I have never had one that didn't want to go into neutral, I have had to roll one to get it out. Check your linkage. To check four high I would remove your rear drive shaft and see if it drives. Or just try doing a burn out.

Has anyone done a rear mounted radiator on an mj? I have seen it on some buggies and wondered if there is a benefit? also would you need a beefier water pump to push the water that far?

socks, undies, and the most snow we have had since the 60's.

Very artsy

I have never paid more then $50 for a 231, nor would I ever pay more then $100 for an ax-15 the junkyard warranty is worth more then the craigslister's word, that is for sure. You can get a running driving xj for $500 any day of the week here. pull it your self don't be a mark!!!!

It is a new JK based scrambler. If they last that long lol

Haha :agree: I think that the bailout will do nothing. Capitalism is like evolution, survival of the fittest. That is how it needs to be. There is no benefit for the nation to have the tax payers to give a multi-billion dollar check to a company with a failing business plan. They will be back again for more money. I wouldn't have a problem with bonds or a structured loan stipulating on a massive reorganization. I just hate to see everything becoming socialized. Car companies come and go. Yes, one of the big three going down will cause many people find themselves out of a job. This is inevitable, even if they all pull through many jobs have to go. It is simply stupid for companies to be tooled and staffed to produce 10+ times then the actual demand. Look at the banking bailout, the odds for the average American getting a mortgage are slim to none. The answer is not to print funny money to give big business. It is not to get banks loaning money. Both of these are short term fixes that will hurt us in the long run. Americans need to focus on "owning" their assests. For our dollar to gain in strenght and our economy to become stable We need to stop financing our lives and live with in our means. Just my thoughts. Not that it would ever happen, but in a perfect world........

I would be a Porn star!!!

they don't tread lightly :thwak:

I don't have the money to have it done, and i have a parts rig. I got the tool set for $16 at harbor freight. I am going to practice on vehicles at u-pull-it until i get it down. I'll do a write up, I was told by a former glass guy that it isn't that hard.

I have been reading about how to replace your wind shield. There are three different common methods of sealing a wind shield. One is a rubber gasket, th other is adhiesive tape, and the other is a poly urithane adhiesive. does anyone know what method is used on mj's?

I am getting a new bed at U-putt it this weekend and glass. i have the hole front clip already. It was a bad weekend. I have done too much work on this to ditch it. It is in great mechanical condition.

Ok, so i know how dumb I am for going down this trail. I have learned my lesson. After 3 days my jeep is home. and now begins the re-construction. Here are some crappy cell phone pics. On top of the visible damage, my indash dvd player and cb were stolen. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Check for this Image Not Found You can make them shiny in like five minutes with a dremel with a wire wheel. Dirty terminals can even seem like a dead battery. same with loose ones.

Just started on my bumper, I am building it like $500 mj's Here are some pics of what i have so far.

Just started on mine. After measuring I Made mine 64" wide. I have mine all boxed in so far, took about 2 1/2 hou rs.

I made a CB mount in welding class today. check it out

Well i got a little done yesterday. I have to look and measure under my truck to see how big of gussets i can make. I am plating a grid of 3/8" scraps on the inside of the skid plate for reinforcements, hey it's free. here are my extended mounts more up tomorrow