BPB

picked up my front axle today. The directions were: head toward amboy go about 15-20 minits, look for the scrapped out travel trailer and mud pits :hmm: Anyways, got a hp Dana 44 warn hubs, 4.10's, the big, 8 lug hubs, and radius arms. Time to tare down the front end. :banana:

x2 on the tox bits. not so much on the shorty though :dunno: , first remove the bolt on each hinge that is easy to get to with the door open. After you remove the fenders there are two holes on the hinges. Then with the doors closed stick your t 40 torx bit through the hole and loosen the two bolts on each hinge that you can access through those holes all the way. Then open the door carefully, it will drop. I suggest opening the window first. so that it is easier to pull off. Doing it the other way leads to stripped bolt heads, frustration, swearing, and eventually loosing your faith in God. Remember that if something won't come off after all the visible bolts are removed, go on to another part, most of them are enter twined. Save every piece of hardware. Also bring a cordless drill with 1/4 and 3/8 socket bits, this will make everything go so much faster!!! Loosen with rachet, remove with drill. Post some pics when it's done. :thumbsup:

any mj with an automatic i believe, for sure 4x4's with automatics.

I got my axls out of the shop. I bought new trail master u-bolts and rubicon express center pins for the leafs. I used chevy u-bolt plates. I now have a dana 60 permanently installed in my truck. I installed my new doors. I modified the hinges so that they can be removed quickly. I am going to make 1/2 doors out off my old doors. I was able to drive my comanche today!!! now it is time to start on the front end. I am talking to a guy about picking up my front 8 lug hp 44.

I got my dana 60 permanently bolted in place. Took off old doors, modified hinges for quick removal. Installed new doors, looks like a truck again. :banana: :banana:

goblazers has 7.5 inches. he did soa plus a 1.5" tnt Ubolt eliminator. He is running 7.5 inch springs up front, he has great stance. Look up his build.

If my xj valve doesn't work out right then I will probably use that method. Did you mount it under your hood? I also saw that they have one that would completely replace the unit below the master cylinder for about a hundred bucks. We'll have to wait and see. won't have the rear axle back till the end of the week.

Cut spring perches and shock mounts off the 60. Then cleaned off 37 years of grime and painted it black. pulled the Laredo plastic molding off my new doors, wire wheeled them, then smoothed them with a flap wheel and primmered them. Fired the MJ up for its weekly warm up.

I'm 5'11" I did not hit my head when I checked for head room. All LKQ u-pull-its are 1/2 price this weekend and I scored big time. I found a 91 four door xj that still had the key in the lock. So at the first yard I got both complete doors with glass, mirrors, and all interior parts, xj proportioning valve, and an xj dome light with map lights to go in the sound bar. All for $86, then We went to another one and I got a dual diaphragm brake booster from a 1998 zj for $11.

If you want to save money, you can take a leaf out of the spring packs, or build a bastard pack to lower it. That way you can keep it simple up front.

I think that I am going to go with the xj valve. I was told that disc brakes take less power then drums. Worst case I have to go and buy an adjustable proportioning valve, maybe I could use one from an f250 seeings how that's the truck my axles are off of.

I am installing a dual diaphram brake booster. I am also doing away with the rear proportioning valve. Should i use the zj 60/40, or the xj which I believe is 70/30. Keep in mind that I have those huge dana 60 brakes out back.

Yes, stupid decision, learned. :doh: here is a pic of the drive line bolted up Dakota brake line installed. 96 xj sound bar picking up an xj front dome light with map lights to fill that hole. Ok, now some questions; Will I have any problems with running the brake line right off the semi rigid line? Is there a need to add another mount? What should I use to close the gap between the sound bar and the head liner?

It gives us Jeep people with no lives one more way to kill time.

I went to hook up the u joint and brakes today. The u joint went perfectly, the 60 and 35 take the same size u joint. also the pinion is the perfect length to keep the factory drive line. then i went to test fit my new dakota brake line. it perfectly into the 60. I decided that I don't like the rear proportioning valve, so I am going to pick up an xj proportioning valve during this weekend's 1/2 price sale at u-pull it, along with doors. I also swung by Northwest Offroad Outfitters in Woodland and they will weld up my perches for $30.

I would expect your tierod and drag link to be painted better then that, DAD. :dunno: Some roll model you are.

Long story to be told around a campfire. Getting new doors this weekend. It will all be one color again by sunday sundown.

I don't know :hmm: Eric had a rattle can in his hand and that appeared. Funny thing is that he's jewish. :doh:

Ok so I finally did something cool on my jeep. I now have a dana 60 in the back. I took it off a 1972 f 250. 4.10 gears. I sized it up and saw that the perches were only an inch off, so I bolted it up. The shackles are at a small angle. I will still need to have them moved. I am going to wait until I have a spool and rock crusher cover in my possession. for now I have a rolling chassis. My drive line works perfectly with no mods. Here are some pics.

Got the bumper tacked up. Still have to straighten it a bit. I also have to cut 7 inches off the rock guards. How do you like my access hole since eric ripped off my door handel. ( door is being replaced.)

Fired it up for the first time in a month. test fit the over head sound bar. Washed the mud off the rear frame, didn't have time to grind off the bumper.

Cut an inch off the rear frame, tacked up my bumper only to realize that I have to trim the frame up more :headpop: (time to buy some grinding wheels), got mad :fs1: , welder jammed for the fourth time, got more mad :hmm: , smashed finger, painted bumper, painted my suby's wheels, still mad :rant: , ordered led tail lights, put old bumper on cl, went to bed mad. :wall:

Nice try but that aint ur truck on those shirts , its a black truck not red . :shake: :rotf: I thought it looked like one I had seen on here... :cheers: Those Xterrains were what gave it away. I thought it was the bumper, lights, y- links, front flares, warn hubs, and the chief trim on the front of the hood.

Here is my new idea for the back hoop, the red is the frame

Ok, well like I said i am having a diamond plate box built to go around the tank. If it leaks up side down or in a flop I guess that I had it coming, I bet that I could find or make back flow valves. Plus right now gas is practically free!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: Any other comments on the rear tube design??? I am buying tube, a new hole saw, and a new bottle for my welder Friday!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: