Akula69

Last time I talked to him he said he was getting 'bored' with his build, and that he had a new passion (but he didn't say what).

There is a spark checking tool (I believe that it is sold at Autozone) that is used inline between the items being checked. I mention this for two reasons: 1) If you plug it in between the coil and the coil wire, it can give positive proof that the coil is producing. 2) If you plug it in between the wire and the dictributor, it can give proof there is not a hidden break in the coil wire. If you know both parts of the coil are good....then the signal must be getting to the distributor. If you have swapped a known good distributor and it still will not start, and : 1) You have checked and found spark at the individual plugs 2) You have checked the fuel rail for pressure and have a consistant 40 PSI, and there is gas present in the cylinders after you attempt to crank it. 3) You have replaced the CPS. 4) You have not removed the distributor and re-inserted it off timing (see earlier post). Then I would suggest that the ECM is either not receiving signals correctly due to a wiring harness or fuse problem (check harness wires by distributor?) or the ECM itself has bit the dust. There are other sensors that come into play as far as thier function, but most would not prevent a start, they would just make the truck run like crap.

Yes

From the way he has it lying on the box it is very hard for me to tell if the sender really is the MJ one or the XJ one. Somebody will have to chime in that knows the part number.

I have never heard it called that (I call it the stator) but its located under the metal plate inside the distributor. It has a plug from the engine bay harness that should be right around the bottom of the distributor, and it cannot be replaced without pulling the distributor and disassembling it from the bottom up. You probably know this, but I'll post it anyways: To save grief later on: BEFORE you pull the distributor you might want to chock the wheels and place the truck in neutral (without starting it) and manually rotate the crankshaft until #1 cylinder is TDC (pull the #1 spark plug and check to be sure - I6 crankshafts have to make two revolutions before TDC is complete). Then - do not rotate the engine while the distributor is out. Once out, remove the small screws inside the distributor that holds the stator, then (using a small punch) remove the pin holding the gear at the bottom of the distributor and slide the base off. The stator will be inside, and assembly is the reverse. When you re-install the distributor in the engine the rotor should be at your 5:00 position (when you are standing by the passenger side fender) or approximately 1/4 - 1/2" past the distributor cap post for the #1 spark plug wire.

Have a good one Pete!

I've never had it cause the truck to not start, but it sure runs like crap when its not there.. The actual behavior is more along the lines of some serious engine misses and backfiring. The NO. 1 culprit for "just dying and won't start" is the CPS.

:agree: If not torqued down to the right in/lbs it will send wrong signals to ECM and engine will run like crap. The plastic sleeve is fragile at best, and after market replacements (I was never able to find an exact OEM replacement) are priced starting at 70.00. The newer ones look different, and are more strongly built (IMHO)

I received this email from Dorman: "We don't offer that part for your particular vehicle. Part Number 49284 is not for your vehicle." Autozone has an all black version in thier "Help" section of the stores. The link shows three versions, but they only carry the last one. The info for that part in the page link also is in error because the one they carry in the stores is for cruise/delay wipers/windshield wash/turn signals. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Interior/Cruise-Control-Lever/_/N-260m?filterByKeyWord=turn+signal+stalk&fromString=search The price is 39.99.

Got one in blue. PM me

Thanks a great thing to do! :D

:agree: This is someone who understands. After you have been with someone long enough they will let you do your thing and support your interests. Expecting a brand-new (or almost new) GF to bend over and kiss your (ahem) obsession will probably leave you lonely when the wrenching is done.

I ordered a three core from them online about 4 months ago (about when they changed suppliers) and the next day I got a very apologetic e-mail that they were out of stock but the new supplier would have them in in three days. Sure enough, in four days I had that puppy on my front porch. They shine when it comes to customer service and shipping.

Trouser mouse? :dunno: :rotfl2:

Did mine the same way, but started with galvanized carriage bolts and heated / bent them slowly so that the metal was not overly stretched. Then, after checking the thickness of the bolt at the bend I re-galvanized them. I'm not sure that a used one would be a whole lot stronger....

Congrats - a really clean looking truck!

Check that you have at least 10hg vaccum at the servo in the engine compartment. If not check the vaccum for the HVAC - if the air defaults to the defroster mode you have a vaccum leak. You may also have to ensure that the brake pedal switch is operating correctly (less then 3/32 out-of-adjustment will cause it to not engage). If you search for the 1994 Cherokee FSM it has a section on checking the multifunction switch with an ohm meter that will determine if the switch is bad. Finally, I don't see the year for your truck indicated but the FSM for that year will give you the test procedures for the servo and the ecm. Good Luck

I realize now that the addiction is hopeless and I need intervention to help me to decide wether to buy another one of our trucks. Here's the deal: I have a friend who owns a garage in town. They were asked to look at a 87 MJ with the 4 banger and a puke goat BA10/5. The truck runs but has no "get up and go" according to the owner. It is a base model and has been hit in the front, damaging the bumper and slightly cracking the header panel. The body is in fair shape for a Mich. truck. 4X2 Dana 35. Highest compression on any one cylinder is 30PSI :ack: which explains the owner's complaint. He has no indicated he'd love to sell it for $150.00. I'm trying to decide if it is actually worth the money. I have no need for a BA or a 4 banger, and the floors of the cab are fairly rotted out. The PO installed some kind of home-grown sunroof in it (and sealed around the opening with roofing tar :thwak: ). I would not rebuild this one. What do ya'll think...worth $150.00 clams to have some parts?

Our Pull-a-Parts will make you take them back out to your car before you can come in. If the find you inside with it they make you leave. Guess they are afraid of someone setting the place on fire.

First, I am unaware of any reasonable way to modify the cargo light to also function as a 3rd brake light for several reasons: 1) You would need (at the minimum) to run a wire from the cargo light positive wire to the brake light switch and find a way to interrupt the current so it would illuminate when the brake pedal released the switch and, you would need to find a way to bypass the cargo light switch in the dash to allow current to pass thru it (when it was switched off) so that the cargo light would come on with the brakes. 2) The lens is clear, and most states require the 3rd brake light to be red. It would almost be easier to install a surface-mount thin line of body-grounded red LEDs under the existing cargo light and run a seperate power circuit from the brake light switch. Then, you would have solved the majority of the issues. Second, the blade-type contacts inside the cargo light pretty much allow you to only use one type of bulb. This does not mean that you could not change the contacts, but why mess with a stock item that is so difficult to obtain? It might be easier to mount a small driving-type light inside the back of the cab pointing outwards to the bed (with a switch on the dash). If it was directly behind the drivers seat you wouldn't even see it most of the time. Sylvania makes a brighter buld for the cargo light, but I wouldn't use two of them at once as they burn hotter then the standard bulbs and might melt the lens.

I'll see what I can do. When I was working on the tailgate I tried to get the catches (on the quarter panels) off for the tailgate and the bolts just snapped they were so frozen with rust. I'd probably need a propane torch to loosen the bumper brackets, and they are hard to sbeak into the lot. If I can get them I'll PM ya. The bumper itself doesn't look too bad in the pictures, but it has a large crease in it by the left rear frame horn.

As Don said, 90 % of electrical problems are associated with the grounds. Along with the one he mentions there is a ground wire that is at the top of the headlight switch. You will need to reach up into the dash to check it however, as you cannot see it unless you partially remove the dash. It will be at the very top of the headlight switch. Good luck

Went to the Baton Rouge Pull-a-Part on Friday to find they had just placed a MJ on the lot. It was in deplorable shape and appeared to have been lived in by the previous owner. I could not recover any information from the door tag (had to break the door handles off to even get into the truck) nor could I read the VIN due to heavily encrusted dirt. The bed was full of junk and rotting clothes. Got the tail lights and the tailgate, even though they were pretty beat up. I'm not squeemish, but when I opened the passenger door there was some black gooey stuff seeping from a pile of mouldy clothes piled there and it smelled, well, like crap. :ack: What I know: 1989 Sport Truck Dark Blue Blue Interior (maybe) 4.0 liter puke goat 4X2 Not a straight panel on it anywhere, engine was bathed in oil. This truck will probably be on the lot until February 01, so if anyone wants somethng from it let me know.

Hmm. I guess its a result of our society. I don't know how or when, but there are a lot of folks (even some in this forum) who have forgotten that at one time they actually didn't know very much, and had to go ask questions, or read, or search. Unfortunately, these folks that have a smattering of intelligence (and I use that word lightly) retained some of that knowledge....just enough to make them 'smarter' then others. Then, as the mood strikes them, they suddenly feel 'superior' to the folks who don't have the knowledge, and they believe that gives them the right to act like asses. In reality, it just makes them look like asses. I am glad that the moderators here use forsight to keep this behavior to a minimum. just my .02

I saw the swing-away carrier on a XJ in the yard down here, but the mounts were on the right-side quarter panel. It had a large pin that engaged the bumper, with a lever for releasing it. I'd love to have it, but could not see how the quarter panel was reinforced so that it did not pull throught the metal. Best of all, they only wanted 16.00 for it.