Akula69

Never could find a house my wife and I were happy with the first time, so we built. Liked getting what we wanted so much that we built again the second time. Of course, it helped that I was a licensed general contractor at the time. However, the real estate agent experience when selling the first house sucked....she was quite nice but also quite dishonest. I wanted to list the 1st house for 25K more then she recommended, and she responded "it would never sell...(even) at her price it will take weeks". Listed it at her price and the daymn thing sold in 2 hours. She made 17K in TWO HOURS! I felt like I'd been screwed without even being kissed first.... :(

I have never done it, but have studied it and decided it was easier to remove the whole dash, and then the AC/Heater case. I wanted to do this to not only replace the core, but to clean the case as well and replace the insulation inside (had mold and mice had chewed it). But, if you want to try, here goes: If the AC/Heater case has never been opened, there will be a plastic strap (looks like a large zip tie) that is black in color running somewhat diagonal across the middle of the case. It is easily seen when you look up under the dash on the passenger side. You will need to cut this strap and remove the bolts (10 MM) near the seam this strap protects. You will not reuse or replace this strap. Then, you will need to remove the 4 nuts on the firewall (11 MM) that hold the blower motor/ heater core section of the case in the truck. You will also need to disconnect the heater hoses from the core. Finally when that half of the case is loose you will need to pry it apart and remove two bolts holding the core inside the case (8MM). Be careful not to bend the linkages for the blend air door. If you have large hands this step is almost impossible inside the truck. Reinstallation is the reverse of those steps (except for the strap). Good Luck!

Guess gas must have cost less back then :rotfl2: "Ship through Transportation" $ 12.00

Normally, traffic flows at 5 MPH over the speed limit. Not when people spot a squad. Attitudes change when at a stop sign too. The rolling and short stops become locked up games where no one wants to go until the squad goes first. The officers at work call it "Cop shock". Rob Its just what I call a PIA. Not a lot of road rage though...I just wave them on. Jim - if your question is related to a ticket you received, the distance the gun can read is not going to be a defensible point. A much more defensible point would be to find out if the radar operator was certified on the equipment, or if the equipment itself has been certified accurate. However, don't volunteer information. Too many times I have sat in court and listened to the person who got the ticket testify: DA: "Please tell me what happened, from your point of view" Defendant: " Well, I was driving down (fill in road name) and the officer stopped me. He said I was doing 50 in a 35 MPH zone, but I was not going that fast. I was really only going 40 MPH. DA: So, your Honor, the Defendant has admitted under oath to traveling faster then the speed limit. Judge: Guilty. Next? Defendant: (daymn.....)

Depends on the terrain, and the intensity of the cone (the smaller the emitted cone, the farther it will go). Usually at max intensity and flat terrain the Ka band will go out about 2-3 miles. The Lidar will go as far as the emitted light can reflect back to the receiver lens. However, its distance value is limited on how far the patrolman can see. If one has a pack of cars travelling together, you have to pick the one that is speeding from the group...usually by the behavior of the driver (switching lanes frequently, following too close, nose of vehicle 'diving' abruptly when brakes are applied, etc).

There are a couple of other choices you might consider: 1) Take an old, junk door and cut out the section where the speaker mount is. Remove the screwserts (plastic nuts for the screws) and rivet the cut section over the existing one. It only adds about an 16th of an inch thickness, and will hold the new speaker without modifying the interior door panel at all. 2) Take a small section of 1/8 inch alumimum flat stock and cut a cresent in one side (to accomodate the curve of the speaker) Position it inside the door and rivet it across the area cut by the PO, aligning it where the speaker screw would go. On the OEM interior door panels the speaker mounts flush with the metal of the door, behind the interior panel's plastic grill. The only thing I have seen behind the speaker is a water shield. I have seen the peaker covers you reference, but have never seen them out so far as to impede the window crank. The B pillar speakers mounted in a 4x6 galvanized metal support which there are pictures of here in the forum. In fact, I believe Fiatslug was selling a pair. Removing Gorilla glue...good luck with that.

Wouldn't ya know, we just replaced the brake switch about three weeks ago....hmmmm. Too dark out there now, but I will certainly check it out tomorrow. I wonder if the wiring could be the culprit...we have previously done the 93+ dual booster change-out, and I changed to the plunger-type brake switch (from the spade type). Because of the existing 89 harness connecting to the 93 brake switch only three wires from the switch are used (white/ light tan, white/light pink, pink/blue). I hope one of the other five are not for the TCU signal... :no:

Finally got the time to OHM out the TCU harness. The OHMS on each of the solenoids read in the 16.0 - 16.4 range with the key off. Only thing left is the speed sensor, and it is a seemingly high-priced item (lowest I've found is 76.00) the MOPAR number is 8350 3722 in case any of you enterprising folks wanna look for me ;) Rockauto only shows it for the AW4 on 93 and 94 XJ, but I crawled under the truck and noted it is there, plain as day... Does anyone have any info on testing this sensor? What the performance range (electroniclly) should be? Thanks

Don is correct - I did look for the one I had for him, and looking again I still did not find it. Sorry :(

Are you talking about the bolt that holds the Brake line onto the axle (that has the vent in it) or the vent that is separate and looks like a plastic nipple? The bolt is available from Team Cherokee (about 3/4 down the page): http://www.teamcherokee.com/Drive_Train/index.html I have not been able to find the plastic nipple....you might need the yard for that.

Thanks for all you do Pete.

OK not form an XJ. I need to learn to read better... Junior (87 MJ) was a column shift at first. I may still have that cluster in the trailer, and will look for it today after work.

Best be is to get one off a XJ in the Pull-a-Part. Cheap and quick.

LOL ! Great idea...except he'll want you to pay!

PM the VIN to me, and if you remember the last license plate send it as well. Make sure the VIN on the firewall agrees with the VIN on the dash before sending it. I will check it. Another way is to get a one-time subscription to Carfax. Send the VIN and they will tell you where the vehicle was reqistered, and you can contact that Police Department and they will check it for you.

it's not the operator's fault, he was just doing what he was told to do. I guess it would be easy if you hated Jeeps, but for me....I'd tell the boss "no" and go home. And, before I get hit with the 'jobs are hard to find' stick.... :thwak: all I can say is you have to draw the line somewhere..... :rant:

OK - here goes: We have adjusted the throttle cable; cleaned the throttle body and replaced the TPS and the IAC. Throttle response is MUCH better and shifting is crisper. However, the problem still exists. I will OHM out the solenoids this weekend. When dezipped sugests doing it at the TCU plug, doesn't he mean the two plugs in the engine bay? The TCU plug is on the main bay harness and only has one "side". Thanks

The durability of the 4.0 shows. Too bad the shrapnel couldn't reach the operator in the video....

You want mine - come get it for free! (however, you have to drive to Louisiana.....)

Yup! my bad, I meant 86 to 88. I believe 89 was the first year without it.

Yes - the C101 connector is visible in the underhood picture. Has to be a 86 or 87. Pretty good shape for one of those two years though....

Gotta say one thing for ya Jim, when you do it, you do it in style! Not sure that stogie will help the headache, but a couple of beers will! :cheers:

Does it count if you are just getting off shift and watch the sun rise? Coffee at that time is usually not a good idea....

The last two pictures show what is a normal factory splice (small barrel-shaped metal ring holding three wires together) and they were commonly covered with duct tape from the factory. In order to see if the front plugs were wired correctly you may want to get a FSM on electrical...there are several that have been scanned and inserted into threads posted in the forum, however - Rob's idea is the quickest: If you are not sure about the front harness, unplug it at the left front inner fender and then put new fuse in. If is doesn't blow then you know were the short is.

Some that I have found to be useful: 1) Be sure to grind the old finish down completely to bare metal in and around the repair. If possible grind and repair on the same day to avoid 'flash rusting' which can cause the bondo to release from the metal later. 2) Never apply in a patch more then 1/8" thick if you can help it. Thicker bondo can sometimes expand at a different rate when the vehicle is left out in the sun, causing the patch to 'pop' off. If the spot being repaired is too deep, there are two directions you can go in: If you have lots of access behind the dent, you can try tapping it out with a hammer and dolly; or, you can drill some small holes in the panel at the damaged spot and use a dent puller (commonly available at auto parts stores) to pull the depression outwards. If you have access to the rear of the panel you can apply a rust inhibitor (undercoat or primer) to the raw edges of the drilled holes. 3) A thinner putty called Glazing Putty can be useful in the final stages of the dent repair. It fills and covers micro air pockets and scratches in the sanded surface and is also commonly available at auto parts stores. 4) Generally, regular laquer-based primer is sufficient for temporary cover of a repaired patch, but before the finish coat is applied a special primer called 'epoxy-sealer' is a good idea to prevent a reaction between the feathered edge of the origional paint and the new finish. Also, the least expensive laquer based primers usually only prevent rust for approximately a year before problems occur. 5) Larger holes in a panel should have a backing of fiberglass applied to provide stiffness for the bondo. Any hole larger then the diameter of a coffee cup needs the backing because if pressed upon the bondo only repair will collapse inward. Good Luck!