Backdraft

Unfortunately its not a simple swap. To make it all work correctly, you will need the under dash wiring, under hood wiring, and the ECM. The dash gauges work via a ccd bus system, and require the proper communications signal from the ECM along with the airbag system. Additionally, all your current wiring and plugs will not properly match up. Furthermore, the engine control and transmission control (if applicable) are wired differently. I would say with a complete 97+ ecu and wiring harness, theres a chance you can make it a hybrid system successfuly. But given that its a huge amount of wire tracing and splicing, its just not really worth the headache.That being said, if you have an entire 97+ donor, its not a huge undertaking to do a complete conversion.

Purdy Eliminator!!!!!! Rob, have you considered using a dazzle? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00028CAL2?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

Say hello to Tank. He's a year and a half old Bull Mastiff. I've been needing a new shop foreman, riding buddy, etc. So far he's shown a pretty good disposition although he's still got a lot of puppy in him.

Is your MAP sensor hooked up and working?

The first time I went off road with the JKS links, I put the pins back in the lower mounts. It proved to be a bad idea since I lost one of the pins on the trail. Now the pins ride in the console. For the swaybar and links, I fold the links forward parallel to the swaybar and bungee both sides to the frame rails with small bungee cords up and out of the way. It works for me.

Brake lines?

Hell creek makes rear springs http://comancheclub.com/topic/18803-cc-discount-on-hell-creek-kits-and-springs/

I think he's specifically referring to the ring and pinion and not necessarily the spider gears. I'm not aware that the spiders need anything other that swapping. As for a D44 in a junkyard....well, its possible, but don't get your hopes up finding one. You're best bet would be the 8.25 XJ rear axle for an all around better replacement. As stated, the spring perches will need to be cut off and rewelded for your application. Expect the lions share of the XJ 8.25s to have 3.55 gears in them as most will be 4.0/AW4 equipped. If you want an axle that's simply a bolt in, any MJ rear axle will suffice, but note that the gearing may not match your front axle and will result in detonation of your transfer case while in four wheel drive.

I have a 2001 XJ prop valve in mine and run a rear D44 with a ZJ disc brake conversion. I haven't had any issues with the rear locking up or bad braking. Bear in mind I'm running 33x12.50 BFG KM2s on it which may contribute to the rears not locking. Also, I don't see much snow or ice either. I can tell you that I don't have any funky issues with mine and am very pleased at how well it stops. Edit: what Jeff suggests with the 8.25 and KJ brakes is what I'm doing with my sons MJ.

That is really nice!

Rob, it just started working this afternoon for some reason. I double checked my notification settings a few times. Maybe I had initially forgotten to save changes or something trivial like that. But all is good and appears to be working now. Thanks!

Nice Jurassic Park quote!

I'm not getting email notifications when there are new posts to threads I'm subscribed to. All my notification option settings are set correctly. Any ideas?

Ryan is right. The OEM is a hardboard material with carpet glued to it. On the sides are a thin sheet metal tabs that are riveted to the board. If you look at your B pillar trim, you will see notches that correspond to these tabs. Same with 2 tabs on the bottom of the board, one on each side.

Yes. There are a few clearance issues inside the dash to make a double din unit work. Along the top is a lip that hangs down. Its the seam for two halve of the vents where they snap together. I cut the lip out of the way and used that same epoxy I have pictured to "glue" it back together as one piece. Also in the bottom corners there's plastic that needs to be notched as well for clearance. It doesn't need to be cut all the way out, just notched some. You see what I'm talking about when you look in your dash.

I've seen "Comanche" butchered a few different ways. But "commanchi"? Are you kidding me? People just don't even try anymore... :thwak: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Com ... 43b33d2b83

One small but very important question: Do we keep the dancing banana :banana: ?

Here's a diagram. This includes the sub wiring and adds a capacitor. It doesn't sound like you're interested in a sub yet so just ignore the extra stuff that doesn't concern you.

Skidoo is right. Run your power and signal wires in different locations. For instance, one down the drivers side, one down the passenger side. If they have to criss cross, try to cross them perpendicularly, as to minimize interference with each other. Also, in my experience, RCA cables that have twisted pair wiring instead of shielded wiring, yield the best resistance to interference and signal noise/distortion.

Two wires per speaker. One positive, one negative. They will be marked with a + and a - on the amp and speaker both. So positive to positive and negative to negative.

First, ensure you're using the right amp for your speakers (read: not a sub amp). Next, run your power, ground, and trigger(blue wire/ power antenna wire from the head unit) to that side of the amp. Then run your RCA cables from the back of the head unit to the signal inputs on the amp. Finally, run the speaker wire outputs to your speakers. Be aware of correct polarity. That's it in a nutshell. Keep in mind using an amp that can dish out more power than your speakers can handle will result in a crappy sound and most likely shorten their life by blowing them. Also if you have four speakers, use a four channel amp. Two speakers, use a two channel amp, obviously. And this is assuming your head unit has RCA preamp outputs for both front and rear speakers. You cannot hook it up to the RCA subwoofer preamp outputs and expect to get what you want. Once its all hooked up and you didn't blow anything up, a general rule of thumb for adjusting the amp would be to turn the amps gain(s) all the way down. Then turn the head units volume to 3/4 of capacity. After that, turn the gain(s) up slowly until just before the sound starts to distort. And if your amp is equipped with a dial to adjust frequency cutoff, play with that also until the sound is clean. Its not an exact science, but rather a seat of the pants way to get full usable capacity from your amp. Once complete, pop in some music you like, fire up the MJ, hit the road, and enjoy jamming to some louder tunes! Good luck :thumbsup: Edit: D'oh.......he beat me to it!

:needpics: To post pics, use a hosting site like photobucket, then insert them in your posts using the img tags around the pictures web address. HTH :thumbsup:

I learned earlier this evening that its not a very good idea to weld and grind in cargo shorts, flip flops, and a T-shirt. I already knew it was dumb, but it was one of those last minute "I really need to do this or it'll never get done" moments. I did get to momentarily enjoy slag falling between my foot and a flip flop. Anyone else have bone headed moments like that? Just a side note, I did use a welding helmet and safety glasses. Protect the eyes, screw everything else. :thumbsup: