Bornindesert

Cage fab = masterful work! Coming together nicely...are you going to connect the cage back into the bed like you had on the first two tubes you formed up?

I think there's more like 8 total and 3 of the 4 corners had studs on mine. The bolts are 10-1.50x30mm, nuts 10-1.50

Wow that's some ruff terrain! I'm thinking the snorkel was a plus crossing that mess of a creek. Nice '88 too!

Nice find, added to my list of things to have around. Thanks

Hey glad to hear it's coming together....where did you ever find the grommets? RockAuto? Would have thought only the vents with grommet would be available, but anyways it's cool you were able to replace those mangled rubber ones

I took a look at Superwade2's old Comanche from old posts and it's is definitely a different truck listed in Phx. What I did notice was that Superwade2's old truck had an actual factory rollbar and the one on CL has some other type stuck in there. The rims are the same, and its the same color...and has a roll bar! But not the same truck. Decided not to bother with the one in Phx mainly because you drew my attention to the roll bars - thanks!

I'm sure something else will pop up before snow falls, in the mean time think about how much more time you'll have to drive the Manche this summer!

I'd say it's definitely not easier than it sounds, which is why many just swap another axle or have a shop set up the gears. If you have some patience and take the time to learn the process, than it's just like rebuilding an engine or trans for the first time. You'd also need to check and make sure the later model '96 D35 is not a C-Clip rear, the carriers don't interchange...I don't think anyways. The '87 D35 would be Non-C-Clip rear, if it's the stock axle. So, if they don't you wouldn't get the limited slip into the MJ axle. The gears probably would interchange but you'd have to check that out too. Plus, agree that just pulling the shafts out of a D30 that's been on the truck for 25 years can be a royal PITA. That's one tough NUT!

If it was me and I didn't want to buy new ring and pinions, I'd swap gears in the D35's and axles for the D30's. I'd also take the time to properly set up the D35's, meaning setting backlash, pinion pre-load and mesh. You'd need some new shim kits and a hand full of new crush washers. BTW, torque range for the pinion nut is something like 250 ft-lbs up to 500 ft-lbs (don't quote me, I'm just saying its A LOT of TORQUE). Setting up the D30's properly is much more work in my opinion, have to deal with carrier preload, pinion depth, backlash, pinion pre-load and mesh. It's a job much better suited for set-up bearings which would mean buying at least one master install kit. Not impossible to do under the vehicle, but much much easiler to do on the bench, which means pulling the front axle anyways.

Pretty smart way to test the pump. Nasty failure mode, works when it's reset but not after it builds pressure. Like you said, makes sense why it would start up and then stall.

So, glad to see you're replacing the pump and strainer. Replaced my strainer (from Rock Auto) and the large O-ring that seals the pump assy flange/lock ring. You'll want to look at the rubber gas line that connects the new pump to the rest of the assembly. It's not standard fuel line, it's special submersible fuel line designed to be...submerged lol. I got some from NAPA...it's not cheap either. The little vent thingy's on the top are so easy to pop out, as someone probably did at some point with your tank. They are impossible to put back in, as indicated in the pics you posted in this thread. Here's the trick - carefully use a small screwdriver and separate the rubber grommet from the plastic vent. Not easy, but they will separate. Then, use some vasoline and install just the rubber grommet in the tank. So much easier. I used the handle of the screw driver to force the grommet outward to seat it. Once you do that, the plastic vent piece pops right in and your done with those thingy's. Also, be careful when you install the pump assy, it has to be seated in the slosh tray which has a grommet type of press fit. Leave the vent thingy's out until you get that situated, you can peer into the tank if they are left out. good luck with the install

Subscribed - what were you thinking of doing for shock mounts?

Very Nice? How many miles?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/3857904373.html Dang, been looking for a factory roll bar...high miles with new trans might have to go take a look

Update? - looking to see how the changes made have improved the fitment, and lead time if I place an order - thx!

Interested in Dana 30 re-gear if you are going to run a locker, plus the disc brake mods on the SOA. Subscribed!

By all means...I'm not an expert on lifts, not even close. Like you, didn't want to go completely budget boost - here's the combo I went with. I was looking for lift to clear 31's, more articulation and a decent ride. What I learned was, coil spacers are good for lift but not necessarily articulation. After I shopped around, decided on OME springs which were around $160. You'll get about 2" of lift and they supposedly have decent ride quality. Quadratic sells the 1/4" nylon spacer, which would be a good addition on OME's. For the back, I really liked the group buy deal offered by General Springs (Joe Wallace), military wrap metric ton springs for $300 a pair plus $80 to ship. They also will give somewhere around 2 inches of lift over old 3 leaf spings - results will vary. I think this 2" lift would also work well with the 2012 Rubicon Shocks, there are brand new "take-off's" on Craiglist all the time here in Phx. Found a brand new set of four for $50, which I'm planning to use for a 2" lift on my daughers XJ. You have to switch the bar pins over and press out the lower bushings - no biggy. Just giving you some ideas. My lift is closer to 5-6" but I added ACOS and Chevy drop shackles to the above lift (plus other goodies, longer brake lines, Billsteins, track bar, discos, etc).

Great thread and overall sweet Comanche. The color selection makes it look almost 2010 ish! I think you would up with 33's and 4.56:1 in the axles, are you happy with the combination? Also, I have the 242 Full-time Xfr case in my '88 Comanche and it's sitting about on 5-6" in the back - so, you went with a hybrid driveshaft, Cardon and U-joints and no mods to the Xfr case. Would you recommend this style of custom Driveshaft? It's one of the last things I need to square away and liked what they cooked up for you. Was just not sure how adding the Cardon fixes geometry for the opposing U-joints. Did they tell you why this works when the input/output shafts are not parallel? Looking forward to some welding projects on your MJ!

If you trace the lines back one of them connects to the fuel filter along the drivers side frame. That's the supply line. I'm pretty sure that line connects to the more centered port on the fuel tank feed through.

Willy did you get the heavy duty 20 ton SWAG or the other one they sell? Nice tube bender, looks like it also uses a 20 ton hydraulic jack. Brand? Can't wait to see if you fill in the fender tubes with sheet...

I've got that one and another high desert bed that's not quite as straight but definitely solid. I'm sure we can work something out, like I said trade or sale.

Has anyone ever seen mirrors like this come from the dealer or factory? The normal spot has a filler piece that looks like an OEM mirror delete part. The bigger mirrors on this truck seem to fit but I've never seen them before?

I'm in Phoenix AZ, have a rust free bed...will trade or sell

Nothing more annoying than a bad case of the stuff, have gotten it many times brush hogging and weed whacking the farm back into submission. Worse one, weed whacked and then brushed off the material from my pant legs. Never realized it was covered in the crushed up vine. Only thing I learned was if you do think you've gotten into some, if you wash off the oil with soak and water say within 30 minutes, it greatly reduces the outbreak or it doesn't even rash up. Hope you're feeling better soon!