Bornindesert

Was really looking forward to your wheeling pics, always interesting to see how prepared you guys are. When you see welding rod laying next to the work in progress at the campground, well enough said :thumbsup: ...and all the fab work really looks great, it all came together. Now just need some door sliders :D

I did snag a set of JK Rubicon Shocks off Phx Craigslist for $50, brand new. You know they require a minor mod to press out the lower front shock mount bushing so you can install a bar pin. The rear shocks just need the bar pins pressed out. I've not installed on my XJ yet, but they should be good for 1-2" of lift, more if you buy a bar-pin eliminator for the front axle. If you move the rear shock mount up to the axle, would also give you more travel using this shock. Your project is moving right along!

The vacuum hose goes from the front of the booster to the intake manifold? I am not sure if that is what you are asking. And ill post more pictures of how I hardlined from the MC to the valve. No, sorry - was referring to the vacuum line that passes behind the booster and in front of the firewall, it's shown in Hornbrod's pic and since there is no firewall modification with his (spacer used) the lines run pretty much as the factory intended. I'm guessing that since you didn't need to modify the firewall, that those two lines (one is steel, one is plastic) are pretty much where they were before the new XJ booster.

Oh, and maybe one picture of how the vacuum and hardline passes between the booster and the firewall - thanks!

The best DIY conversion thread I've come across so far (and there's quite a few, no offense) - and thanks for posting your conversion up on ComancheClub. The spacer would tend to lower the pedal, if that's an issue but push the washer tank further left...is that what you'd conclude? Where did you source your lines and flares (AGS brand)? Have all the typical stores around here, NAPA, O'Reilly's....just wondering which has the fittings you bought. I'm doing this conversion, ordering the booster/master later this week.

Five 5 on 5 for 12 bills, picked them up today. Didn't realize they were 10th year Anniversary Rubi rims. Now I can convert all the great inputs from the forum and get them on my Desert Rat Comanche. Down the road, priced out some Discoverer STTs, gets you up to a 33" tire on 7.5" rims. If only they had Rubicon bucket seat take-offs. Fat chance!

Thanks Eagle. I'll take a turn off the tie-rod to back off the toe-in. When you measure pinion angle, is it simply a matter of disconnecting the drive shaft, rotating the spline coupling to a vertical position and then placing the magnetic angle finder across the flats? Subtract 90* and that's the pinion angle? Measure the drive shaft installed. Subtract one reading from the other should = zero. What's an acceptable range in readings?

I remember reading about the 1/4 spacer to adapt the D30 unit bearing to the WJ disc brake upgrade. Gets me into 5 on 5 up front and eliminates the spacer. Thanks for the idea. I run Stillen rotors/metal matrix pads with Akebono calipers on my WJ, stopping improved dramatically over to 2001 stock stuff. Would be a nice upgrade with the Rubi rims. Alexia, $1,200 for five brand new tires and rims, just like yours....good deal or not?

Well, I must have beginner's luck. After researching and reading some up on lift height vs. UCA and LCA lenghts...I picked what I though would be good starting lengths and it worked out pretty close. Got an angle finder and like Hornbrod suggested, put a socket on top of the upper ball joint and took readings. They were 7* and 6 1/2* caster. Close enough. For the pinion angle, it's a fixed u-joint at the axle end and cardon at the XFR case. Stock MJ drive shaft. Is the correct pinion angle zero*. Does that occur when the pinion is pointing pretty much directly at the output yoke of the NP242?

For the rear wall covering...pretty good thinking on re-using the XJ speaker pods. I'd consider flipping it though, give some more room behind the seat near the floor and bring up the light so it can shine higher in the cab.

Sir Sam, like that idea of using WJ parts. Did you keep the D30 and adapt the WJ steering, brakes and knuckles? Or did you pull a complete WJ front axle? thanks

That is the ultimate sacrifice!

I know you replaced the CPS, an open or bad connection will produce a no spark condition. I'd unplug and really look over the harness and connector. My '88 actually had two plugs at the fire wall that the CPS would plug into. Plugged into the wrong one, and no spark.

There's not a lot of mud here in the SouthWest, when there is it's pretty nasty stuff. I'm more trending toward rounded and sharp rocks, stuff you'll find up on the Rim, Canyon and Flaggstaff. Moab would be a future trip. So, thanks for the recommendation on the Cooper STT Kevlar's. I just put Cooper Discoverer A/T3's 31x10.5R15's on the Comanche that I built for my son. Haven't tested them out, but they should be a good "starter" tire for him. Looking at Coopers tire site, they have a LT285/70R17 that's approved for a 7.5" rim width and is overall a 33" tire diameter - that's the one I'd lean toward using the Rubi Rims

Thanks Hornbord, I might be closer to where it should be set than I expected. Definitely makes sense to set up the magnetic angle finder on top of the knuckle. When you shimmed, you corrected the caster by moving the LCA's forward...so you started with less than 7* before adjusting, is that correct?

Those are indeed very nice treads and come in sizes up to 35", radials too. Since your in CO, the mud treads are probably a great all year tire. Going with the 70 sidewalls also makes for a taller tire profile, which might be the look that I'm going for.

Perfect - that's what I was looking for...forgot Alexia went with JK's and is using the spacer / adapter. Funny thing is, even with the spacer the tires don't have that "stickin' out" look that's popular in Phx area. Looks like a stock big tire on a Comanche. Now, what tires can you run on that 17" rim? The 255R75-17 should be about a 32" tire. If the rim is a relatively narrow 7.5" width, would there be a 33" or 35" tire that would work? Thanks for the post and link.

Tires/rims listed locally for $1200, set of 5 with like 10 miles so essentially new.

Today the '88 got treated to a radiator flush courtesy of my 16 y/o son, and is pretty much ready to roll after almost a year of rebuilding the truck. Last on the list, front end alignment. I set the tow in to an 1/8", and centered the steering wheel. The track bar is a JKS and has the axle pretty close to dead on center. Now comes the question... I set the UCA and LCA length up for a 4" lift, they are both adjustable. The ride height is closer to 5" of lift now that I've mearsured it. So, the visual eye ball castor seems like 6-8 degrees (maybe more) when I think stock is more like 2-3 degrees. The pinion angle is about horizontal to the ground, and I think it needs to be pointed at the TC. The lower ball joint is fresh, and it set about 0.20" below flush. I think this is more a camber adjustment? Before I push it out of the garage, wanted to set the castor or at least get it close. Three or four closing turns on the LCA's should raise the pinion and reduce the castor. Does anyone know how to properly mearure castor? I know it's the angle formed through the upper and lower ball joints looking from the side, but I can't seem to find a place to set up the angle gage. Have never done this adjustment before so any advice or experience would be great.

Was wondering if any CC members have run or are running these on their MJ and would post some pics? They are 2013 jk 255R75-15's, and they need a spacer adapter or 5 on 5 axles. Actually want to see them with spacers if anyone has that set up. Thanks!

I like the 2013 17" Rubi rims too but didn't think they fit a 4.5"x5 MJ pattern? Aren't they 5"x5? Are you going with a hub adapter? My guess would be you'd have to trim to fit a 255R75-17 tire even on the street. Interested in what you decide to do.

There's a button on my spring pack that is pretty tight to the stock perch on the last re-spring I did. It's 5/8ths for the metric ton spring I got. It's SUA. Is there anything special thats done when you flip the spring and use a weld on perch? Do you reverse the spring pack bolt too? Probably a stupid question...

Haha MiNi Beast as if you already knew was just going through your build thread and the TnT UBE fab, getting lots of great ideas - loved the Dune Coon customs cross member and the Bronco Windshield!

I'm in the 'thinking about it' phase for the next Comanche project, have been through several build threads for both types of SOA, with and without U-bolts. Wanted to get some veteran CC inputs on advantages or disadvantages of sticking with U-bolts verses a U-bolt eliminator approach. The most likely axle will be a re-geared D44, which I already have set aside. I'd be welding the perches or UBE myself if that's a factor. Thinking 6-8" of lift and 33" or 35" tires. What's the way to go here if you had the choice?

M10-1.5x30mm so yeah it's a 10mm bolt, threads are metric designation or 1.50 threads per mm and length is 30mm. Basically a course threaded bolt, I'd probably get the higher grade if they have them, something like an 8.8