Bornindesert

My first MJ was a red Sport Truck! It was a 2WD and I used to tear it up with that little hottie. Put the factory roll bar in it and some fat new 235 Wranglers on those factory rims. Oh my...

A long shot, but a cracked spark plug? Bad wire...

That's a great link, bookmarked! Gotta love Gypsy parts lol. Biotex, did you get all the flares off without breaking off the backing plate studs? Mine did not cooperate, most broke off. The one item I would have liked to see on the c2cfabrication site was not offered, the wheel flare attachment backers....

In the case where the JY does a core charge, do they provide axles that are rebuilt? Or do they re-sell the core to a rebuilder?

Actually the quote I got from another mechanic to rebuild it was $400 less but the guy that replaced it had already torn it apart. Went back today, the brake shoes needed adjusting and they fixed the emergency brake, it's better now, he said I need to drive if for a few hours. Refused to give me the old rear end though said he had to return it to the place he got the new one because of a "core charge"? Tried to tell me you always have to return the old part, never heard of that. He said if I wanted it I had to pay $250 for it. Sounds like your replacement axle came from a rebuilder rather than a JY. In that case, yeah it would be rational to believe he had to turn in a core axle. Question I have is, what did you get with your replacement axle? Hopefully new outer axle bearings and seals, and carrier bearings/pinion bearings and seal. If it's just a JY axle with freshened up brakes, seems odd. I've never heard of the JY wanting the old one back, but I guess it's possible. Something doesn't quite add up... But, at least you are back on track, problem solved!

Just a wild guess...but it was common for non-AC Jeeps to be retro-fitted at the dealer later in life to add the AC. That's how it went down for my 88' as I bought it from a guy who was a Jeep Mechanic at Frystock AMC Jeep Eagle, Rahway NJ. My AC relay is however in the fuse box.

Just can't pass up on these for $50, If they are still available I'm going for it and will replace the 16 year old shocks on my stock XJ.

Nice survivor - I drove a bench column auto for a few years and liked the space when used as a DD. Spilled my coffee a few times tho...had to use a mason jar with a lid :)

Not free, but listed for $50 on Phoenix CraigsList a couple of days ago, but I see them all the time here listed...sometimes with springs or just the shocks alone for around $100.

So, sounds like they'd be alright up front, running close to stock or 1.5" of lift, and not long enough for the rear (of an MJ).

Zack I think that's what I'll do on the other spot, which is not nearly as bad as this repair area. It was a about two hours to do this job, plus side was my son is there helping so is learning basic fabrication and repair work.

Well, correct ends assuming you could press the bar pins out of the rear shocks and into the fronts...

Has anyone found a use for 2012-2013 Jeep Rubicon shocks take-offs on their lifted or un-lifted MJs? I see them on CL, essentially brand new for like $50, for all four corners! Front uncompressed/compressed 22.75/15 inches. Rear 23.25/11.5 inches Just curious because they have correct ends for front/back and are probably decent grade of shocks that are spec'd for an OEM Rubi

Pretty much agree with hotter air thinking on that custom intake location. Plus, you lose the access to the clean air coming in through the grill. It would be interesting to thermocouple the two locations and get some real time temps.

That's a Crown radiator, hmmm. The Jeep parts I've gotten from them have all been pretty good quality. Aluminum core, all metal and two rows, I can see why it's on your wish list.

Did this last weekend and only concern I have is how the pan with gasket went back in. The rear main cap has a groove which of course receives the feltpro 1 pc gasket. It seemed like it didn't want to slip into the groove, and your kinda blind working from the bottom. I'd either leave this section, the loop, dry without HiTack spray so it can find its way into the groove or exacto it from the rest of the gasket and put it in the groove first. Silicon the joint good and put the pan up with the rest of the gasket tacked in place. Good luck maybe yours will fall right into place. Mine fought me and until I run the engine I'm thinking its a 50/50 chance I got it in the groove.

Appreciate all the inputs, will post up when I get back on the engine. Right now focused on getting the bed back on so I can install the gas tank and run a flush on the cooling system.

Took a pic of this set-up and custom fabricated air intake. Notice the windshield bottle is missing, but look at the room it free'd up on the driver side. Enough for a second full size battery provided you made your own tray. Not saying this is how I'd go, just tossing out some ideas for you. I posted a similar thread a few weeks ago, got some good ideas from the CC experts.

Taking care of the Ugly Used the cut-off and a new flanger I picked up from HF on Easter, 25% off. The flange tool gives you a little offset, and a clean punch to weld through All healed up, just need to grind, bump with a body hammer, treat the steel, fill and sand. I don't do this stuff for a livin' so please let me know what you all think of my rust repair.

Yeah that's not a good thing, sorry to hear that. I'm going to pull mine out while the truck is still getting it's make over and call a shop..see what they can do and for how much. There's a good one in near Sky Harbor in Phoenix, it's just that they're not that close to where i'm at. If that doesn't pan out, I'll start shopping for a new one. Would lean toward all metal, Aluminum or maybe brass/copper. For Arizona, having a little extra capacity would be desirable which was why I was asking about a 2 or 3 row. I think a single row would be ok if it's brandy spanking new. thanks for the info!

Some really good things to consider, all those questions are valid in my experience. Most entrepreneurs fail their first time out, and second time too. Those lucky enough to pull it off have made it through tremendous personal sacrifice, created the right thing that people want to buy and had decent business skills. That's why I'm still working :brows:

My 88' 4X4, 4.0L Auto w/Air may need a new radiator. There's just a ton of rust built up from using Indiana well water to top off the system years ago :doh: and yeah now I'm buying distilled water. I still may pull it and see if a shop can check it out...but I think it could be easy to test it myself. Looking for some replacement options, live in AZ so 115 F is a normal day in the summer. The ones listed on RockAuto all seem to be around $100, and either specify 1 row or don't specify. Anyone here have any success with buying a 2 or 3 row from there? Plastic vs Metal - pro's /con's 2 row vs 3 row advantages. Any insights or leads would be appreciated - thanks!

Wish I still lived in Jersey lol. I'd pick that up in a heart beat.

Lucked out, same color door and interior as the Comanche I'm doing, plus the guy I bought from was really cool, has some other decent parts I may pick up. A one year old rebuilt AC compressor with replacement lines for $50? And the radiator was recent, got to ask him what he wants. All in all a good day for some parts I needed.

Thanks relyt120! Heading out later this evenning to grab the passenger door, AC heater control assy, heater control wiring harness and fan motor resistor from a parted out XJ. $100