Bornindesert

Good idea, I'll try the long extension and see if it agrees with the bearing hypothesis. I did actually use one of those super long oil funnels with the small end at my ear...but you really can't get super close because of the fan.

88' 4.0 Auto with AC, stock Alt and new Pwr steering pump and Dayco belt. Truck has been back on the road for about a month. We've adjusted the belt tension numerous times, the squeak will go away or come and go intermittently. It's running true and straight and does change pitch when AC is on or off. It's adjusted correctly, tight but not too tight. By ear, the squeak seems to be coming from the water pump. It was replaced about 10 years ago, and was a reman. Could this erratic belt squeal be a bad water pump bearing? It's not leaking, runs at the proper temp, no cooling issues at all. I'm down to just replacing it if I can't figure out any other source of the squeaky belt, which may in fact not be the belt at all but the pump bearing.

Was just going to add that you'll obviously need to source some u-bolts in the correct size for your axle tube. That and deciding on what you'll use for a plate. I believe you can reuse the stock one if you swap sides and also cut off the shock mounts. I like the WFO Concept Shock mounts that weld on the axle. Of course this is SUA When I go SOA, I'm considering using a UBE or U-bolt eliminator but I think based on what I've learned on here U-bolts perform as well or better than a UBE set-up

I had to put heat to both sides to crack that nut free, and used a 1" drive breaker bar with a pipe extension. Another consideration, I had it on tires still not on jack stands. Would say, be patient with the heat, I have acetylene but a MAP torch should get it ready. With enough heat, it's coming off no doubt. If your already planning on new unit bearings then its no big deal to scorch the grease. Basically, big breaker and plenty of heat. As they say, it's a tuff nut to crack!

Moldings and a pin stripe would look good. Nice paint.

Just a consideration, but the brackets are substantial in terms of steel, fabrication and machining. The hooks are forged. I got some hardware when I picked mine up, specifically the bolts that attach the hooks. In terms of value and the fact that you can really hook up and get pulled out of a tough spot without having to worry about the location of the pull...kinda worth $75. I don't think it's a smoking deal, but definitely a good deal.

I went and got 6 bolts, M10-1.5*45mm because the OEM bolts were too short. Agree bolts right on to the factory hole pattern. Not sure why exactly but I notched my air dam so i could turn the hook up. Check your sway bar for clearance as the bolts stick out further. It's a nice add on for the factory bumper.

For the back brake rear center hose check out Alexia's budget lift DIY thread. I am using the Dorman H38636 from a 1989-1996 Dodge Dakota from the part list in his thread (thanks!). It's like 5 in longer than the stock Comanche. You can also relocate or fab a different bracket to get a little more length.

My old Xj would plow through 8 inches of snow, up the hill all the way to the garage like it was nothing. The MJ, without any weight in the back...you were stuck and digging it out. Your idea about weight is probably spot on. Throw a rank of wood in the back and see if you get stuck next time.

Well flipped the rear shocks today, and had a good laugh. Look what was right on the shock!! Yup.

I use the iPhone 4 it works right from your address book, search engine, Siri, email or text. The map app talks, does everything a Garmin will do as long as you're in a service area it will update the map. Outside of service it continues to navigate off its locator. IMHO, devices like TomToms are becoming obsolete when you can have the same functionality from your cell phone. Now I still use a Garmin when I'm hiking or hunting because cell service is spotty in most places I go. It is still my choice over the iPhone out in the boonies.

Should add, at 6" of lift in the back, this bumper won't be seeing any Tow duty. It's mainly cosmetic and a place to light up the license plate. I do need to somehow add a receiver for some light trailer action. Interested in where recommendations go in this thread.

Agree with all the points made. I did tow a lot with my Dealer installed bumper, its not what I'd consider the factory Comanche bumper though. All my towing was flat back country rural roads in Indiana delivering 3,000 lbs loads of hay, rarely went over 45 mph. Towing an RV or Stock trailer? Not with an MJ I'm afraid that would scare me on the highways. I recently sand blasted the old Capital JEEP Eagle, Tallahassee FL bumper, threw some extra welds on it, straightened the area where the ball attaches and fresh paint. As was noted, very soft steel. The hitch area bent when the wife backed it up a little to sharp, and I was able to straighten with a 25 lb sledge and 800 mg of ibuprofen.

Yeah thats the way to look at it. I kept the Grizzly, traded the Kodiak lol

Thanks. I think he got the better deal but I like this truck for all the possibilities.

Have to admit, wasn't expecting that to come up on the list.

Really diggin the fabbed tube bumpers and semi-hidden winch set-ups. Nice looks, home grown, functional but not over-done with steel. There's something to be said about simplicity in design :thumbsup:

Great to see all the MJ pics posted up. Seems to be a Club Standard modification to move the front flares up on the fender, fasteners through the outside of the flare and into the fender. Is it a simple modification? Assuming the fender is cut out too for clearance. WV is God's country, or sumthing like that. Need to get back out there some day...

Sport Truck, 2.5L 4sp 4x4 with 144,000 miles. Still on the road, a little ratty but all there and rust free. Has factory air, everything is there minus one of the liquid lines. Love the patina on these high desert trucks. Got this truck out of Payson, Arizona. 2nd owner and truck was also purchased from a Payson dealership. Traded a Yamaha quad for this desert truck, straight up trade.

The no spark could still be the CPS circuit. Sensor good, connector or wiring bad.

I was pleased with how they installed. Eventually I will remove the Chevy drop shackles and convert the D35 to SOA. The Barne's brackets are beefy mounts and you can lay a decent weld down so if they catch on something i think they would survive.

Eagle, I'm realizing how much I didn't know about shock absorber design and application. Really appreciate the info and advice. All of the pictures that I've pulled up on ProComp 9000's would indicate they are installed tube down, rod up. I need to re-install mine this coming weekend so they work as intended. We need to have a Shock 101 class here on CC lol.

Really nice work and great looking paint. Did you ever solve the rough idle and belt squeal issues and if you did what helped?

Got it, thanks Eagle. It's gas over the working fluid, makes sense that orientation would matter. I still have not located the manufacturers recommended orientation for this shock, so have contacted them for an answer.

I upgraded my 2001 GC brakes through Kolak, made a huge difference in stopping power and here in Phoenix that's a big plus if you ride the freeways. Sent an email to ProCompUSA will post when I hear back. Since the shocks operate with gas, not fluid like the Oleos on an F/A18 Super Hornet I can't imagine why orientation would matter but I'm all ears.