Bornindesert

If the rest of the truck is as rust free as the floors, good find. Under the battery tray is another place to check for corrosion. I re-geared & rebuilt my D30 last year about this time. Went with Timken Unit bearings and rotors/pads from Autozone, MOOG ball-joints and axle seals from Rockauto. SierraGear for the 4.10's and master kit, and some AlloyUSA Cromolly axles. If you don't re-gear, and are keeping the ring and pinion you could just do a pinion seal and get the shim kit & pinion nut (no bearings replaced, no set-up, same shims for pinion preload). Here are a couple of links on dana30's...if you need to set-up on new bearings or gears. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189/ Lots of other things you could do to your D30, as I've learned from some of the build threads on here.

Depending on what direction you'll be taking, looks like a really solid, straight and clean Comanche to start with. I rocked a red 86/87 2WD 4.0 bench column shift back in the day, my first Comanche. It was pretty fast and sat nicely on 235's Goodyear Wanglers. Nice purchase!

Really like how it came out, white/gray is a good combination. Interior is looking awesome dude!

Any chance you'd be going to see her again? Could use a few 88 2.5l specific parts off that junker. Like the full gage cluster.

Just received a Cloyes timing set, the little sprocket is packaged, the chain and large sprocket came loose in the box.

I'd like to do my next D30 axle just like yours, looks like it'll take a beating for sure. Are you keeping the steering set up or changing it up?

The D35 in my White Comanche...came from an XJ during the 2X to 4X conversion. Perches cut off with a torch, relocated to the MJ locations, welded up. Done. If you go the gear swap direction, would run the Dana serial numbers through the Dana Axle Identification website and make sure they are both either non C-clip or C-Clip as I think the carriers and housings do not interchange.

A learning experience for sure! Glad you got it running smooth, and with all new orings installed. I remember the orings being fairly tight going in, and they definitely need to seat properly, Hopefully no more gas leaks until the next cold snap !

Measured it and it's 8mm or .320" but there are probably 10mm versions of this plug. I think i'll roll over to AutoZone later and see if they have any plug sockets. I don't have any hardened 1/2" bolts with a shank, just threads but that would have been my first choice. Thanks for the leads!

Does anyone know what tool is used to remove this plug? It's not 3/8" extension friendly.

My 16 year old son changing his first Diff fluid on his Comanche, wearing a classic AMC Mechanics jacket I got from a good friend back in Jersey who worked at Frystock Jeep Eagle in Rahway. The guy that I actually got this 88 from. Best part, he bought the diff cover with his own $'s

On the injectors, not really sure 2 ohms would make a difference in the old set verses the new set. I just measured an old one and it was 13.5 ohms. Another thing to check, make sure you don't have a bad spark plug, as in cracked ceramic. I had that on an old 85 CJ, rough idle driving me crazy and that's what was causing it.

Outside chance, but try this. I remember my MAP sensor became loose, one of the machine screws left without telling me. Make sure the connector, and the sensor to bracket are all making good connections, tight, etc. Might even try to remove it, clean the bracket, sensor and connector so it's making all the right electrical connections. Re-seating all the injector connectors again, another idea. If that doesn't work, trace the harness back to the firewall connector and remove, clean, reassemble. Just tyring to eliminate something electrical that was disturbed during the fuel rail removal. Hope you get this fixed, engine running smooth this weekend.

Look for any simple interferences, metal to metal will leave a witness mark in the paint or rust. Sway bar, coil springs, track bar contact at frame end. You may need to adjust the track bar longer to move the axle back to center. Just throwing out some ideas.

Did you use an aftermarket header panel and if you did how was the fit and where did you buy it from - thanks

Great color choice! One of my favorite Rubicon colors, looks great on a Comanche.

I guess in a pinch a tire gage would work, but maybe not so good for the tire gage...creative thinking though. Thanks for the correction Crusier, given how many times I've had to mess with the MAP sensor, you'd think I'd know it's proper name lol. FYI, a pretty basic fuel pressure gage is available at Autozone. Check the spark. Not saying you have a bad CPS, just may have created a bad connection during the fuel rail removal, and only if you don't have any spark at all. Go over everything you did during the work. It's probably something fairly simple, something that didn'tgo back together like it should have.

Sounds like you dropped the tank or maybe just left it in and changed out the pump. Almost sounds like bad gas, or water in the fuel. Are you sure you have fresh fuel in the tank?

Fuel pressure - should be able to hear the pump come on with the key in run position. If you get a little squirt from the schrader valve, you've got fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gage would be best, but do the simple test first. The IAC vacumm line from the trottle body to the firewall is pretty easy to crack, the motor will not run (hardly) with a leak there, but in my experience you can normally get it to start briefly if it's inop or cracked in half. Spark, would check that next. A no spark would most likely be a bad connection or connector for the CPS which kinda runs donw the back of the cyl head. Recheck all the other connections around the trottle body. Make sure the ballest resister on the fender is making good connections. If you have fuel, and spark, it should at least fire and run. If your convinced you've switched # 3 and #4, swap them and see if it makes a difference.

Dang, probably a 10 hour drive for me from Phoenix. They're out there, just have to go get them when they come up.

The clips don't stay with either, they snap off and usually fling themselves into places only a flashlight can find. There is a lip on the clip that you can lever on to snap them off. Probably lots of ways to clean them but some parts cleaner and a coffee can is what I've used, and there's always a missing tooth brush involved lol.

Dirty terminal connections on the ballest resistor, drivers inner fender. Cracked vacumm line, the one that goes to the IAC thingy on the firewall. Stale fuel, or no gas :)

Rockauto or autoparts store for the o-rings. If you go on Rockauto, purchase one new injector just in case it's not the o-rings. Removing the fuel rail to replace injectors or o-rings is not that difficult, requires some patience. Relieve the fuel pressure by removing the cap and depressing the shraeder valve. If it's already leaked out, don't bother. There is a 13mm nut under where the left and right vacumm harness plug together, also a stainless clip that holds the fuel line. Pop the harness up and out of the U shaped holder and remove the nut. This will give you some freedom to wiggle the hard fuel line loose. To release the fuel line from the rail, squeeze and press the nylon retainer clip in and toward the valve cover, at the same time tug the hard line away from the valve cover. It should pop loose. Note the o-ring will either stay with the line or stay inside the rail. Locate it and save it for reassembly. Now you can remove the intake manifold bolts that attach the fuel rail to the intake. Next, is the tricky part...each fuel injector has a steel clip that holds the top of the injector to the fuel rail. It pops off pretty easy with the right pliers and flat head. Don't lose them, they are a dealer item and not cheap. With some patience, wiggling and gentle prying action, the fuel rail can then be separated from the injectors. It will remain attached to the return fuel line at the back, that's ok to leave connected. The injectors are still attached to the harness, each connector will separate from the injector, not too easily either. Need to be patient and careful, eventually they will come apart and snap back together. Replace O-rings, injectors, coat o-rings with some motor oil and reassemble. The back injector is a pain, just have to deal with hunching over and snapping it out to replace the o-rings.

Agree, put heat to it before you start cranking the nut off. A propane plumbers torch may work or may not, just not as hot of a flame as it looks. If you have access to oxy-acetylene, just be very carful working around the fuel tank, garage, and yourself. A couple of different techniques, you can get the nut hot and let it cool completely. Sometimes that's good if you just need to crack the nut loose. For severely rusted threads, I use Mopar Rust Penetrent, and get the nut cherry before cranking it off hot. The front's are bolted in at the bottom, so the hardware is replaceable and would be good to replace with some frest metric hardened bolts. Other stuff you might want to mess with are the front sway bar bushings and links. Pretty relatively inexpensive to replace the rubber with new rubber or polyurethane, provided you don't have issues removing the bolts that hold the sway bar mounts to the frame.

Oh yes, remember now...you used a 97+ Cherokee donor and modified the floor with the donor section. That was a good approach and might be the direction I go witih mine. So, the Grand Cherokee seats just look really nice...I thought they had the electric controls on the side, might be able to lower them if they have the up/down feature.