onlyinajeep726

WJ knuckle swaps are quite the rage these days for XJs and MJs running considerably larger tires... The WJ rotors are an inch more in diameter, the calipers are dual piston and the knuckles make for easier OTK steering setups or high steer. Couple that with a Durango master cylinder (1-1/8 bore) mated to the later model XJ dual diaphragm brake boosters and ZJ or even better, Crown Vic rear discs, and you could lock up 35's with ease at any speed. WJ knuckle swap: Durango Master Cylinder swap:

Not yet. He never showed up on Sunday. Tried all day to get a hold of him to no avail. Finally, after blantantly asking him through text if he was avoiding my calls and texts, he replied back saying that he just opened up another shop in Dallas. Said he was between the two at the moment and has been tied up. Although, in reality, how hard is it to text back real quick to say you couldn't be at my place because you got stuck in Dallas? Oh well, he said he'd be here Friday. We'll see....

I have an HO in my Renix. It can be done. The advantage of the HO stuff is OBD II, but Renix Jeeps aren't terrible to diagnose.

That's some "Pimp my Ride" stuff there. Last I knew, he wasn't even able to drive it because of how low it sits. He has no floor boards because of it.

Not a clue... the guy who built it has been contacted and claims he will be at my house sometime tomorrow afternoon. We will discuss everything, include options to make this right, in vast detail. I'm not getting bent over a barrel on this. The long block was $1850 and with the rest of everything I did to modify and upgrade it to work in my Renix, it brought costs up to about the $3200 range. That's no drop in the bucket...

Results to my compression test... Each cylinder was tested in the same manner to rule out user error: I know cylinder 2 is messed up and reason being is because there is coolant shooting out when the plugs were all removed and engine being turned over... so, what does that mean? Head gasket? Cracked cylinder wall? Something else? :wall: :headpop:

Honestly, the guy who built it never gave me a build sheet, despite several requests to obtain one... Anyway, honestly, I think it's just a factory cam. I know for sure it's got a 4.2 crank and obviously the connecting rods are longer, but I'm beginning to doubt anything else was done to internally... I know it's got OEM pistons. It really doesn't seem to have much more power than my former stock '96 XJ... Just guzzles more gas lol.

You don't need to hack anything off with a sawzall... :thumbsup: You can go about removing it in several ways. The easiest is to just unbolt the linkages and remove them. Then you can just tuck the actual antisway bar up out of the way and secure it so it doesn't swing back down. Or, at the point, you can just unbolt the whole bar and remove all of it. You may find out though that you hate the amount of body roll/sway you get from removing it. The MJ has no rear swaybar in stock form, whereas an XJ does. I removed my rear from my XJ, but opted to keep the front one intact. I have quick discos for when I'm offroad. The sway was too much for me, but my center of gravity is higher on the XJ since it's lifted.

That's what I was afraid of... But I will test compression and report back here. I am not looking forward to having to tear into this essentially new engine...

Guys, I need your help badly. Background info.: 1988 Cherokee, 4.7L stroker with HO head (6130 casting), engine has less than 5k miles on it and is just over a year old. Was heading to work the other day on my XJ and the engine started to misfire and go nuts. Turned back around and hopped into my MJ. Anyway, I've been trying to diagnose it tonight. I started with the fuel injectors. They're all fine. Checked my dizzy and wires, they're fine (just got all new stuff about two weeks ago). Pulled my spark plugs, all fine EXCEPT the one in cylinder #2. It was fouled with oil. Cleaned it off, started it and let if run a minute or two. Pulled that plug again, fouled with oil again. However, I noticed this time when I pulled the plug, smoke starting pouring out of the plug hole. I don't think it was burning oil, as it was not blue in color nor did it smell like burnt oil. Suppose it could be gas, but didn't really smell like that either. Anyway, the PCV elbow has some frothy looking oil inside. I haven't pulled the valve cover yet, but will likely do that soon. My fear is that the piston rings are FUBARed. I'd like to add that with the engine running, it seems to have a noticeable clanking noise. Has been doing this for a few weeks now, but I didn't think much of it because the XJ makes lots of strange noises under the hood. Going to rent a compression tester tomorrow from the parts store and check that. Anyone have any ideas of what might be going on? If this engine is already FUBARed, I'm going to be pissed. :headpop:

It'll sway a lot more in turns, but on a stock height MJ, it shouldn't be terrible. Just don't take turns and corners too fast. May consider extended front brake lines or lowering yours if you're going to be doing a lot of flexing, especially if the wheels are turned while flexing.

I wish I had a DRB... But that's pretty cool Crusier. Any pictures?

Pictures? :brows:

No RHD MJ's from factory... but there is a guy who converted using a RHD XJ as a donor. Lots of fab work involved.

I guess I'll go first for the XJ pics lol... 4" lift, 31's, yada-yada.

I've heard good things about both of those companies, but never bought from either company. I'd say either or would be fine but I'm sure some other members may want to share their actual experiences.

About 6 people showed. We can still meet and chill. We're talking about going to Uwharrie April 12th and 13th now. The 5th and 6th are the Jamboree. My buddy Sam and I don't want to go on the weekend of the Jamboree since it'll be a clusterf**k of people there, so we are setting up a trip the following weekend. Be cool if y'all could come out.

True, but I don't think AMC/Jeep ever imagined people doing this kind of offroading when they designed these lol. :group beer:

Here's the pictures I took at Twin Peaks. Awesome restaurant, by the way.

I'll see you guys in a little while! :yes:

Any more progress on this?

Get the 4.0 one. Done deal. Nothing special about the 2.5 one other than the way the bypass outlet is clocked... Hell, for $45, I'd get me a highflow housing...

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-1005-jeep-cherokee-xj-problems-and-fixes/

Didn't really think about that, but you have a good point. :doh: Oh well, too late now...

Yep, it will work. May have to route the bypass hose a little differently, but it's doable. Also, it you were to buy either of the two housings brand new, the 4.0 one is significantly cheaper. At least it's that way on RockAuto lol.