onlyinajeep726

That's the correct one. Here's what it looks like from the other side:

Remove it...

That's a pretty common upgrade to the RC LA kit... Most folks complain about their joints failing after a few moderate wheeling trips. The arms themselves are fine, based on the information I've found through research. I wish RC would offer their LA kit with JJ's at a better deal than having to buy each JJ separately. They would probably sell a lot more of their LA kits that way...

I love hearing stuff like this. It's what sets this forum miles apart from the rest.

Fix It Again, Tony!

In '86, the tank size is 16 gallons. AFAIK, that's the only tank size the MJ got in '86. Also, the '86 was only LWB. No short bed that first year.

FEAR NOT! You can do the WJ knuckle swap AND retain the 5 on 4.5" lug pattern. Not going to be cheap, but it can and has been done. As for which trac-bar to run... Like I said previously, I run the IRO OTK steering and I run an RE1660 Extreme trac-bar in the stock location. No DW/BS and everything clears fine (with my stock diff cover). I have the C-ROK Durango steering box spacer and Durango steering box, but I don't have a brace.

I'm running IRO OTK steering on my XJ. Solid and works great. RE 1660 Extreme Trac-bar in stock location. No clearance issues, but I have a stock diff cover.

703's and 710's are the same style plug. Also, I was mistaken on the 746's... I was looking at my dad's Volvo (which I assumed had 746's) and his are the fat-bodied, two-piece design.

The Ford 710's are 19# as well as the Neon 703's. The Volvo 746's are a good choice too, but the nice thing about the 710's/703's are the one piece design. They can't leak at the mid section like the stock and Volvo injectors could. Google "Jeep fuel injector upgrade" and I guarantee you'll find a ton of info on various forums. That should give you a good indication of what will suit your needs and give you years of which vehicles to look at. I can't remember which years I got what from...

I've done both the Ford 710's (Yellow stick) and the Neon 703's. Both were a huge improvement over the stock Siemens injectors. The thing I like about the 703's over the 710's is that the 703's use a fuel rail retaining clip.

Where are you at? 828 area code is NC, but where specifically?

Dodge Nitro rims? Yuck.... Otherwise, seems like a clean MJ. Wouldn't give $6500 for it though... sorry.

This is the best advice. I did that to a front skid a couple of years ago and I've been kicking myself ever since... Could've gotten it for $10 at the JY...

I just cut the end off at the angle shown. Nothing fancier than that. It was close enough to the head liner, as in, there isn't a noticeable gap between the console and head liner, so I left that alone. I like the added storage and the compass/ambient temperature was nice (when it worked haha).

I used the factory brackets from the XJ. As far as cutting, I kind of guessed at the angle after taking some loose measurements. For the rear portion, the bracket is bolted to the ceiling support beam and the "legs" of the bracket poke through the head liner. I'll see if I can take better pictures.

This is what I did... Came from a '95/'96 XJ. Didn't have to cut too much of the head liner. No pictures of that, unfortunately... :doh:

I'm running Redline MT-90 in my AX15. Not cheap, but it's a very, very good lubricant. I'd highly recommend it. As mention previously, do not use GL-5. GL-4 is fine. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46

About time.... hahaha It's been how long now?

There are quite a few upgrades. Those can be found via a Google search. You can also have your current alt. rebuilt/rewound to crank out more current.

Your understanding of how current and voltage works is lacking. In terms of DC, increasing the voltage will cause a basic motor to spin faster. Ohm's law states: V = I*R, where V: Voltage, I: Current, & R: Resistance (measured in Ohms). Say the fuel pump motor has 3 ohms of resistance (I just made up a random number for this example). Assuming no ballast resistor is used in series with the fuel pump, the total resistance is the 3 ohms I made up before. Lets also assume the pump pulls 4 amps of current. V = 4*3. V = 12 volts DC. Easy enough. Now, add that ballast resistor in series like AMC did. We now have 4.1 ohms of total resistance (3 from the pump, 1.1 from the ballast resistor). The pump is still only supplied the 12 volts DC so the current must go down because the resistance went up. 12 = I*4.1. Divide 12 by 4.1 and you get I = 2.92682 amps. The point I'm trying to illustrate is that by adding resistance in series with a motor (in this case the ballast resistor) with the same voltage supply, you will lower the current that is supplied to said motor. This, in turn, will cause the motor to spin slower. Current is what drives a motor.

Get rid of the stock one... that's why the axle is pushed over. Buy an adjustable one. Rubicon Express 1660 Extreme is a good one for light to moderate wheeling. Iron Rock Offroad makes a good one too. Ironman4x4 if you want to go bomb-proof and pricey. Stay away from Rough Country trac-bars. I'd recommend double shear trac-bars over a stock style.

I must be the only one that doesn't get a hot ballast resistor, then... :dunno:

I hope you figure this one out because my XJ is doing something similar, minus the no starts...