mvusse

Both Sparkled and the part XJ (both 1996) have grey ones. Purple People Eater didn't have any. Wilbur has black ones.

Spliced fuel pump assembly wires the CORRECT way (not twisted together with duct tape like the last person), reinstalled it, removed it, primed the pump, reinstalled it again. Then I took it to the gas station, filled it up and drove it home.

T-55

I removed both of mine. Was tired of the screeching whenever I got a gravel pebble stuck between it and the rotor. No issues for almost 4 years now.

I's a BUMPER DUMPER!

Are you guys aware skidoo replied to this topic with a last post of December last year?

It would help,but still be too short. You need more than an inch to make it right.

Wheel moving is either bad balljoint or bad unit bearing.

Your driveshaft is too short. So much of the slip yoke is sticking out that it probably has play in it, which will mess up a new seal in no time flat. A new seal BTW costs only about $10 and takes just a few minutes to install. The rear pinion angle would be correct for a driveshaft with a double cardan CV joint at the transfer case end, but is completely wrong for a single u joint driveshaft like you have. If you correct the pinion angle by rotating it down so it runs parallel to the transfer case output shaft your driveshaft will be even more too short. No reputable shop can build an aluminum driveshaft for $100. If that's all it cost they took and existing main tube they already had or the owner brought in, installed the u joints, attached the slip yoke and balanced it. If they had built a custom driveshaft it would have cost more and it would have been the correct length.

Fluid should run from the transmission to the auxiliary cooler to the radiator cooler back to the transmission.

No crank problem was a bad connection of the ignition switch wire at the starter relay. Picked as much mud out of the socket on the end of the wire as possible, then wirebrushed mud off the relay terminal until it was shiny. Stuck wire back on and she cranks again. Clicking I heard was not in the tank, it was the fuel pump relay. Unplugged the pump assembly pigtail and hooked a test light up to find everything is fine at least up to the plug. Pulled assembly out of tank and found all wires inside tank just fine. Then I pulled the protective sheathing off the pigtail to find the top 4" of wires covered in duct tape. Cut the tape off and find three splices where the wires were just twisted together and taped up with a separate layer of duct tape :nuts: When I'm back in the shop (Monday?) I'll cut the wires back past the corrosion and butt splice them, followed by heat shrink tubing to seal it from the elements.

All three of my current Jeeps, one I have gotten rid of since, the parts truck and an Comanche unit I removed at a junk yard all had Bosch pumps in them. Bosch has absolutely nothing to do with GM.

After 141,000 miles with monthly off road abuse, my 26 year old AW4 is still fine. After 195,000 road miles the 17 year old original one from Sparkles is just as fine. The 16 year old 4wd one I swapped in with 140,000 is the same.

His problem is not the bolt not fitting the shock mount. His problem is the steel sleeve that came with the shock not wanting to go into the hole in the rubber bushing.

The 231 J is still being produced. The J designation just means it has an input shaft, output shaft and front output yoke for Jeep vehicles. The 231 C (Chevrolet) is for GM vehicles. The 231 D (Dodge) is for Chrysler/Mopar vehicles There is also a 231HD (heavy duty) used on some Durangos which supposedly have the wider chain and 6 gear planetary from a 241 in it. On a side note, the Terra 4 low kit also includes a 6 gear planetary. A stock 231 uses a 3 gear planetary which is the same as the 6 with every second gear removed.

Last night I replaced the radiator twice, put my dash back together after finally installing the aux fan controller I built almost three years ago, reinstalled the CB radio, running the wiring straight to the battery instead of jury rigged into the fuse panel and checked everything quickly before heading home. About a mile later it died on me with a fuel pump problem. At the time I thought I just ran out of gas, so I had a buddy bring me some. It still cranked fine after that. 30 minutes later after trying a few more things the starter decided crap out on me too. Ended up being brought back to my shop by a tow truck.

He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200.

Memory is kind of vague, so I might be wrong, but I believe the 93 only ZJ had the AW4. 94-98 had the 42RE piece of junk.

Finished wiring in and calibrating the aux fan controller, then removed the radiator because of leaks.

Don't forget about the track bar and sway bar end links. I run a 95 Dakota rear line on Wilbur, TJ rear line on Sparkles. Depending on shocks the Dakota one may or may not be long enough, the TJ one is a bit longer yet. On the front I run YJ brake hoses, but supposedly Chevy K1500 ones work better yet. Have not had a chance to see for myself yet, though. And with that much lift larger tires are a must. But with larger tires you may want to regear the axles, then while you're inside the axles you might as well install lockers.... Never ending cycle.

Common solution in Europe I believe is to use an amber bulb in the backup light socket and use that for the turn signal, and then use aftermarket backup lights fitted inside the bumper.

To each their own, but doesn't make it right. Too much tire-jacking, on road and off. Not to mention bumps are transferred straight to the chassis through the vertical control arms rather than being absorbed by the spring when the controls arms are nearly flat, as they should be. LOL your short arms don't unload because there's likely very little down-travel. For me, off road performance is all about the droop, and little about the compression. Yup, very little down travel: Limited by the shocks. With the shocks disconnected it is limited by the brake lines.

Doesn't exist. Supposedly a Cherokee one will work in an aftermarket tank without the pan in the bottom.

I have ran short arms with 6.25" lift in the front for going on three years now. Ride on the road is nicer than a stock Cherokee, and if performs better than most rigs out there off road. I can go up hills that scare most people with long arms front suspension because it unloads and they're afraid of going over backwards. My short arms don't do that.

calipers and brake pads (and rotors, I believe) changed between 90/91. But for the same year, there is no difference between 4wd and 2wd brakes.