mvusse

Disregard. Seems I have forgotten how to read.

For $200 for a partial rebuild kit, it's cheaper to go to the junk yard and buy a whole other transfer case.

Later TJ 4 cylinders have the same pattern as the 4.0 and use a different transmission. Don't know what year that happened, though.

No, you can't. With 3.07 and 29s my 94 XJ bounced off the rev limiter at 55 in 2nd gear.

Or compared to chromoly shafts?

I had an XJ with a 4.0 stick shift. When turning out of my alley onto the street, halfway through the turn I was already shifting to 2nd. IMHO 1st on an AX15 is geared too deep.

I have two tired front springs from a 1996 XJ with the 4.0. Had 185,000 on it when I pulled them.

What chart are you using? The problem with most charts, and with most calculations, is that they are based on the tire diameter as it sits on a rim, not mounted on a vehicle. Once you put it on a vehicle, supporting weight, the actual static radius from the axle to the ground is less (often significantly less) than half the theoretical diameter. When I made up my spreadsheet, I went to tire company brochures and web sites and found their own numbers for actual revolutions-per-mile. Even that's an approximation -- within any nominal size, one company's 31x10.50-15 may have a few different revolutions-per-mile than another company's 31x10.50-15. But it's still a lot more accurate than just calculating a diameter from the nominal tire size and dividing it by two. Look up 31x10.50-15 from any tire company and I think you'll find it isn't 31 inches in diameter. Most seem to run about 30-1/2". 31x10.50s with 4.56 gears is LESS overall gearing than a stock 4.0L with automatic and stock 3.54 gears. For the stock setup, 70 MPH in 4th (overdrive) is 2913 RPM and downshifting to third (1:1) bumps it to 3884 RPM. My wife's XJ is an automatic, and there's no problem climbing most hills on Interstates without downshifting. Any incline that's so steep you need to downshift for it probably won't be the end of the world if you only drive 65 instead of 75. But if you have the right ratio, you won't need to downshift as much on upgrades. This is why I think that factory's choice of 3.08 gears behind the 5-speed was so dumb. I have to downshift a lot even at 60 MPH on highways, and I should not have to do that. I swapped my daughter's XJ over to 4.10 gears, and put 31x10.50s under it. Stock tire size on that one was 225/75R15 with 3.55 gears. That geared it quite a bit lower than stock. It is now running 265/75R16 (~32x10.50) and it is closer than with the 31s, but still off 3%. Not going with larger tires for a while, so will be getting a different speedo gear. 1 tooth more should make it pretty much dead on. When 4.10s with 31x10.50s is already geared lower than stock, 4.56 would be *way* lower than stock. With stock gears and stock tires going down I-77 at 70mph it ran about 2300 rpm, not anywhere near the 2900 you are claiming. 2900 is about right for third gear (1:1) on an AW4, or 4th gear with a 2.5/AX4 combo, which gets the same 3.55 axle ratio.

D44 will use the same u joints as the larger ones used on the D30. In my experience they don't hold up to 35s off road, so 37s won't work either. Only ones I have not tried are CTM. $250 is a bit rich for me on a u joint. (Still) in the process of fitting a D60 under my rig.

My steel shaft was painted black. After this it looked like brushed steel.

4 cylinder, 28.9" tires, AX4, 3.55 axles. 75mph in 4th gear was running 3100 rpm and got me 19mpg. Threw in an AX5, keeping everything the same. Now 75mpg in 5th gear is running 2650 rpm and gets me 24 mpg. I must concede that 5th gear is absolutely gutless, though, and useless on any grade steeper than 1 or 2%.

Actually, historically, full size trucks had either a 6.5' or 8' bed. Most compact trucks had 6' or 7', just like the Comanche. some guys have noted that their spare tire winch is attached to the bed.

The brackets are welded.

Gas tank will be the main problem. The gas tank straps mount to the frame rail on the one side, and to the bed bottom on the other side. I can pretty much guarantee that and other bed will not have the brackets to hold the gas tank in place and the straps to mount to. the E-brake bracket is also attached to the bed.

I'm almost done getting a Ford Dana 60 to work. All that's left is track bar bracket, drive shaft and brakes. Done with steering (I think, still have to double check that), lower control arm mounts, upper control arm mounts, shock mounts and spring plates.

12" long line with flared with fittings is $4.99 an Autozone. Advance Auto Parts, O'Reillys, Car Quest, Napa will be prices similar. They should all have it in stock. Only difference between this one and from the dealership is you save $96 and you have to bend it yourself to make it fit. And it is flexible enough you can bend it by hand, no tools required for that.

I would just replace that entire line. It is only about 10-14" long and costs next to nothing already flared with the fittings on it.

Wow! That's the shortest 1310 yoke I have ever seen on a drive shaft. No wonder it was hitting.

Yes, 1996 = R-134a

Chain is not difficult to find, I got mine from Morris 4x4. Not terribly difficult to install, either, as just the back part of the case has to be taken apart. Most of it stays assembled. Can even be done with the case still under the truck without too much difficulty.

But what was holding the cross shaft in place....

I have a 1996 back door, if you want it. I don't know how you usually drive to GA, but I'm right on I-77. It's red, though, not black. edit to add: Pretty sure I also have the front door glass, and I have a few track bars and brackets, but don't know which ones are good and which ones will allow some play.

I have had three transfer cases with a slipping chain, all three were due to a stretched chain, never a worn sprocket. Quickest way to stretch a chain is driving the truck (even in 2wd) without hardly any fluid in the transfer case. A few hundred miles of street driving will be enough to do it. Don't ask me how I know. :oops:

I'm guessing the cross shaft.

Infrared, so line of sight only. And good luck finding a key fob that works with it anymore.