mvusse

I just checked mine, and my front is where it's supposed to be, but my rear is only 18.5", so 2.5" to 3" of sag. Guess I'll get new springs one of these months. But how can the rear be different on 2wd and 4wd? Do they use different springs?

Yeah, I was gonna have my buddy do it. Then I decided I just wanted to get it installed. Just like the gas tank, I used rust reformer on it until there was no brown left on it anywhere, just black, then primed and painted it. Hopefully it won't rust out any more than it already is, if it does I'll have him sleeve it with a U channel. I can easily remove the bumper from the brackets to get better access to the hitch for welding. 6 bolts total, including the two connecting it to the hitch. For what it's used for it's still plenty strong enough. Dark now, and gone all day tomorrow. Will post pictures with the bike rack on Monday.

Well, I got the class III receiver installed. Took a little work, as it mounts to the outside of the frame rails. Problem is that my factory step bumper mounts also mount to the outside of the frame rails, as well as the bottom. But with a little coercing, I made it fit over top of the bumper brackets, with new bolts through the hitch bracket, then the bumper bracket and into the frame rail. I used a 5 pound sledge, a crow bar and the weight of the truck to get it over. Couldn't get it all the way up to where it belongs, though, because my bumper was bent out and down. Bent it back up by jacking up the truck by the bumper and jumping up and down on the tailgate. Once I got the bumper up out of the way and the hitch bolted on, I found that the bumper was 4" too far back in the middle to line up with the holes on top of the hitch, so I backed into my "bumper straightener" 4 or 5 times until the holes lined up. So now it had 3 bolts into each frame rail and 2 bolts connecting it to the bumper itself. Already tested with bike rack, should be strong enough for my 3000 pound trailer or to use as a recovery point. Bumper/hitch receiver as seen from back: and side: Bumper is nice and straight now as well: Bumper straightener: And the mark left on it:

I don't see anything wrong with that. :D

I still need to get tires, front tow hooks, CB installed and ds seat brackets installed. Ground clearance and departure angle are going to hold me back some, though: no lift, 21 years of sag on a lwb. With a bit of luck I should be running 5.5" or so of lift if we do this again next year.

An electric pump in the tank pushing the fuel, rather than a mechanical one pulling it, will effectively make a car immune to vapor lock.

Craftsman hand tools have a lifetime warranty. Power tools do not. And a floor jack is considered a power tool :nuts: My first floor jack I bought was a craftsman 2.5 ton ($79.95). Jack unit blew a gasket, so I tried to return it under warranty only to find out it had expired. How does a lifetime warranty expire? I asked. The warranty on power tools is only 1 year was the reply. So I tried to get the jack unit to fix it, turns out that part alone was $99.95. $20 more than the entire jack had cost me. So I went to Advance Auto Parts and bough an MVProlift 2.25 ton lifetime warranty one for $29,95 I think even they only carry a 2 year warranty anymore, though.

It automatically adjusts the fluid pressure to the rear brakes based on how much weight you're carrying. Ingenious when it works, but a lot of people take it out because of problems with it. Mine works just fine (for now),

Let's say for the sake of argument, the average price for a gallon of gasoline is $3.99 Let's also assume your new vehicle averages 20mpg then 12,000 miles per year = 600 gallons per year $1 saved per gallon of gas =$600 per year or a total rebate of $1800 max. It sounds like a great deal, but in reality will cost Daimler Chrysler barely more than a $1500 factory rebate.

X2 Having your existing drive shaft shortened is probably the cheapest and easiest way to go. And if possible, just to be sure, you may want to have it balanced. May not be necessary, but it can't hurt.

Are you sure about the 9/16? 14mm and 9/16 are so close they can often be interchanged.

Clogged CCV orifice (in valve cover) can cause high internal pressure, causing oil to be forced by the gaskets. If you you replaced the valve cover gasket without cleaning out the CCV orifice, it is quite possible your new valve cover gasket is leaking on the back of the engine.

Did you have front brakes before the valve switch? It is possible the lines are clogged. It is also possible a port on the valve is clogged. If fluid is leaking out somewhere, there's pressure. Either the pressure is not making it's way to where it needs to go, or something's hooked up wrong. As for the fluid leaking out, NPT threads are designed to seal tightly, and should not leak. If they don't seal perfectly, some loc-tite should do the trick. Don't use teflon tape on brake system fittings, as it is possible to get pieces inside the lines causing all new problems.

The computer does not do nothing in open loop mode. In closed loop mode it uses information from all sensors to calculate the supposed optimal amount of fuel to give the engine, how much to advance the timing, etc. In open loop mode, it uses a table with precalculated values to look up what it should need (fuel, timing etc.) for a given throttle position, engine speed and vehicle speed. You do not want to always run in open loop mode, because the values are "on the safe side", which in short form will hurt your wallet from burning way more fuel than you need to. This is a (perhaps overly) simplified explanation, and is in no way meant to be complete.

Yeah, I had that problem. Finally pulled the valve cover Monday and cleaned it inside and out.CCV orifice was completely clogged. It is now the only part under the hood not covered in oil/sludge. Still need to replace air filter, though. The rear half is saturated with oil.

Radiator with plastic tanks cannot be repaired. All metal radiators are repairable. You pay more up front, but if it ever needs fixed it could be cheaper. Of course if there's excess solder inside the radiator, that's just piss poor quality. I usually check stores to see who carries a lifetime warranty radiator. Don;t care if they have plastics tanks, cause if it ever fails I just pull it, plop it onto the store counter and tell them I need a new one. Around $150 is not bad for a radiator. Even $210 isn't all that bad. Sure , my Geo's radiator was $100, but it was about the size of a heater core. The radiator in my Suburban is $499. But that sucker is 2' high, 3' wide and 3" thick.

If alcohol doesn't do it, you can try gasoline (or kerosene), or acetone.

Looks good. But I'm guessing the scoop is not functional?

Looks great! How hard is it to find a rear bumper in Europe? Or are you planning to leave it off?

It's a little cumbersome, but I guess it could hoist an engine...

??? Here in Ohio, a "cherry picker" is how we refer to an engine hoist. Since an engine hoist definitely does not have a throttle cable, what is it that's called a cherry picker in your part of the woods?

Clutch chatter can also be cause by a bad/bent pressure plate. In this case replacing flywheel and/or clutch plate will not fix things.

If she's anything at all like my daughters, I'd say either black with purple accents, or white with pink accents. Then again, they'd also insist on a 6" lift and 37s.

Congrats! Now you just need a 4wd drive train, lift kit, bigger tires....

Here in Strasburg (rural OH) it is still 3.97, but from 10 miles north of here all the way to Cleveland it is $3.99. And the Indians beat the Rangers 5-2! Wahooo!!!!!! Anybody guess where I was today?