mvusse

Flipping the axle over would result in the truck moving backwards while in Drive, or forwards while in reverse. Along with oiling issues of the gears. The spacing is different. Not by a whole lot, but enough. It is quite possible the perches were moved, but well enough to look factory. Also, going back to SUA, one or both of the XJ shock mounts might be in the way and may need cut off. The shock mounts on the u bolt plates are the stock Comanche ones.

They show up at $1.59 each for me.

Any XJ 95 through 99 will be high pinion, no CAD, and the same shafts as the TJ.

A shop local to me custom makes u bolts while I wait. They come with thick washers and double height nuts and are cheaper than the packaged ones from the parts store. I used to use 9/16" on everything, but with the 1 ton axles I decided to go 5/8". Anyway, if you can find a shop in your area that does suspension work, it might be worth a shot.

Keep the 3" u bolts for when you smarten up and swap in an 8.25". You need 2.625" or 2.75" u bolts for a D35.

Nice. Honestly guys, thanks for thr info. I feel better now about swapping one in. It just seems like most jeepers look at the ax5 almost the same as having herpes. Naw man, ba10 = Herpes. I had a 2.5 and ax4 for a while, and was contemplating swapping in the ax5 if I could find one. What was funny though was when I looked online comparing the two, the 5spd got worse mpg lol! So I got curious and started looking up why. Apparently tbi 2.5 doesn't have enough umph to fill out OD? But perhaps mpfi makes up for that. The AX5 equipped trucks had 4.10 gears, whereas the AX4 equipped ones had 3.55. That makes the final drive ratio in 4th with the AX4 the exact same as in 5th with the AX5. The AX5 got worse mpg because 1st through 4th where geared lower. I run an AX5 with 3.55 gearing in the axles. Around town is the same as it was before, cruising on flat ground 60 mph is the same as before, but cruising 75mph on flat ground I now get 24mpg, where I got 19mpg with the AX4. Mixed mileage in rural Ohio runs about 21-22mpg averaged over two and a half years. I used to average 17 with the 4.0/automatic.

I for one am not paying $260 per u joint. The cost of one of them bought my Dana 60, and the cost for a second one put that Dana 60 under my truck with money left to spare.

How would they know? They don't run ethanol. They run a mixture of nitromethane and methanol.

I tried the Brute Force joints a few years back. They were no stronger than the Duralast Gold ones. After the next wheeling trip (when I broke both of them) I went back to the cold forged Spicer ones. In my experience: Garbage: -Duralast -Duralast Gold -Neapco -Neapco Brute Force -Spicer 5-297x Pretty good: -Spicer 5-760x -Alloy USA 11500 These are all that I have first hand experience with.

The small pinion only engages one tooth at a time, causing the ring gear failure.

I would not run 4.88s in a Dana 30. The pinion is so freakishly small it would create a weak link. There's a reason Dana never made a 4.88 gear set for it.

Hope these work. They are hosted on Facebook and not taken by me. Don't know what the privacy settings are, nor can I change them. Looks a little different now than it did in the second post of this thread. Same lift as before (~6.5 front, ~8 rear), cut fenders to clear 35" tires: And currently, ~7.5" lift, 37s. Still a work in progress.

Works for me.

I was going to get 33s, but got 35s because the price was the same. Over the course of 30 broken front axle shafts and 4 differentials I have been wishing I got the 33s I was planning on. Sitting on 37s and one tons now, though.

78-79 F100 had them, but they are full width, have a larger 5 bolt wheel pattern (5 on 5.5?) and are geared stupid high, like 2.72:1. I think full size Cherokee/Wgoneer/J truck. width is close to what we use, I believe 6 bolt pattern, and geared stupid low, but not quite as bad as the Ford. 87-92 Comanche with trailer package or heavy duty axle option. 87-91(?) Cherokee with trailer package or heavy duty axle option. TJ Wrangler Rubicon. These have a factory installed selectable locker. Isuzu Rodeo I believe, 6 bolt pattern, many with disc brakes. Some Dodge Dakota. Probably more I'm either forgetting or don't know about. Also, easier to find, direct bolt in except for spring perches, equal in strength to a D44 and much easier to find would be a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25" from a late 96 through 01 Cherokee.

You may want to think about gearing, or never use OD. 5th gear in an AX5 is a mild 0.85:1 whereas the AX15 has a 5th gear ratio of 0.79:1. A 4 cylinder with stock gearing will have trouble with that ratio. Add bigger tires and it will only be usable when heading downhill. Or swap gears and countershaft from a Toyota R151 into the AX15. Little deeper 1st gear, 0.83 5th gear. 2nd through 4th and reverse are the same.

Oops, my bad. I think I may need glasses. Even so, it may or may not work. Don't know if the length of the transfer case input shaft is the same. There is more to it than spline count, there are also three different lengths of the input shaft depending on what transmission.

No you cannot. The 4.0 straight six uses a completely different bellhousing than the 2.8V6 and 2.5 4 cylinder.

What is it or is it not doing?

Here in the rusted north there are no spare tire winches left. Because of that, good, working ones imported from the south go for close to what I paid for my entire truck to begin with. Out of 10 MJs I know of within the state of OH, I know for a fact 9 do not have a tire winch left. No 10 is JohnR, who I believe is the exception to the rule.

The vacuum lines control a central axle disconnect. This has the same effect as manually locking and unlocking the hubs on a Ford, but is done automatically by the transfer case using engine vacuum when engaging 4wd. These lines do not lock the differential, though, they only engage the axle. I would find a different mechanic. IOW, one who understands how mechanical systems work, which is supposed to be their job. Mechanics can't fix what they don't understand, and yours evidently doesn't understand even something as simple as how an axle and differential work.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/42294-renix-valve-cover-breather-repair/ Covers half of it.

I run an external pump with a fuel cell in my 87 weekend toy. Feeds into the stock fuel rail with the stock regulator and return dumping back into the fuel cell. Even drilled an extra hole for a breather (with a roll over valve) plumbed into the evap canister.

They probably sent you a Cherokee leaf pack. Will never work.

I used a 96 booster from a parts XJ I had bought and stripped a while back. Swapped in the 96 brake pedal assembly along with the booster and spliced the 96 plug into my dash harness.