desertmike

I vote for http://www.tirerack.com/ Bought 4 sets there. Delivered next day. There is some shipping cost but the tires are less so it works about the same. If you live in a state with high sales tax and recycle taxes its great.

Did some Comanches come with a 4 pane rear window or is that just after market? Mine came with a 3 piece. Just curious.

I changed lift kits several years ago to an RC 4.5 long arm. Works fine and rides better than the last kit. Not a DD though it is street legal. Put a Rubicon Express 3.5 superflex with rear springs on the wifes XJ. That setup rides really good. Got shocks with both kits but don't know if they were included. Both have Iron Rock adjustable track bars with the bracket. Don't forget to use castle nuts on the track bar bolts.

Might as well get a complete bumper. http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJB/DIY-MJ-R.html

I installed a 4.5 inch Rough Country long arm kit on the MJ. The rear sags alittle to much to my liking. The rear leafs are stock with an XJ add a leaf and some extended shackles. Still not enough. I have an extra set of rear leafs. I need about 1.5-2 inches of lift. If I use the top leaf from the extra set and cut off the eyes, take out the add a leaf, would that be enough? Would it ride to rough. I know MJ leafs are hard to find for lifts, mainly good ones that ride good. This is not a DD but I don't want to get beat up either. I like to drink my coffee over the woops lol.. Or some other ideas.

I've done 2 AX15 conversions. One came with the tc so no problem. I was going to rebuild my 231 with a 23 spline input shaft but found a rebuilt one for cheaper than I could do it. Anyway IIRC the guy at Davys Jeeep told me That any lenght input shaft would work. You might check with him. http://www.daveysjeeps.com/specials.html

Not trying to hijack the thread, just an after thought as I was reading it. benjy_26 If you want it its yours. I'll post some pics tomorrow and weight it. I'm in SoCal 92284

If your interested, I have a Rancho 2 1/2 inch lift for sale. Two front springs, 2 lower control arms, 2 Rancho 9000 series front shocks and 2 older Rancho 7000 series rear shocks. Original owner in very good condition. No rear springs or add a leaf. All hydralic and adustable. $75 shipped on your dime.

I resurfaced my XJ and MJ Renix flywheels many years ago with a clutch change and had no problems. Never heard of a coned flyeheel. I bought new flywheels for the second clutch change because I didn't want to resurface twice. Also I think the AX-15 can use any lenght input shaft from a 23 spline 231 tc.

I have a 88MJ and 89XJ that came with the BA10 transmission and internal slave cylinder. After changing the slave cylinders a few times the upper transmission bolts became a PITA. I have since put AX15's and external slaves in them. I modified the bolts so that the socket dose'nt slip off as much. From L to R (1-4) #1 stock bolt 3/8-16-1 3/4, #2 stock bolt with E12 socket welded on, #3 grade 5 bolt with extra nut welded on, #4 with socket on. I'm sure this has been done before. This is a crappy picture but I think you get the idea.

Done this twice now. You will need this http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716164--pilot-bushing-750quot-id-x-1818quot-od/ and get the cross member, tcas shift linkage and alltho not really needed but get the drive shaft. I also got the slave and hose from Advance to make it easy.

Putting some Pocket Flares on the Jeeps and the flexable inner fender splash guards fell apart. Are these the correct ones to keep the water, mud and dirt out of the door, horn and headlite? http://www.ebay.com/itm/200848189912?item=200848189912&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_2224wt_991 Thanks edit..... they also are held in place by the 9 fender flare bolts.

Posted this before but here goes again. Don't know who invented this technique but this is the one I use. http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26 Done this several times and works great. Got the parts from McMaster Car. Under $20 IIRC.

Having Sprint Internet problems. Anyway I'm trying to find the Vendor and P/N for the bushing I used. It is .750 ID x 1 something OD. I had it turned down to 1.052 OD which is the size of the original bushing. This is for an 88-89 XJ,MJ as far as I know with a BA10. Maybe other years also. This is for the AX15 that has the .750 input shaft. If you have the small input shaft you can use the BA10 neddle bearing. The bushing was only $6-9 and the machine shop service was only $20 cash. I spent a long time trying to find something that worked and this was the only way for the older Jeeps. FyI....If you replace your D35 with a C8.25 you will need the driveshaft. It is about 3/4/ to 1 inch shorter.

I just went through this last year on my 88 Comanche. I never could find the correct one. I finally found one close is size .750 or so ID and a something over 1 inch OD from Advance Adapters. Took it to a machine shop and had it sized to the OD of the original bearing. Bought 2, one for a spare but is now going into my 89XJ swap.

I did the BA10 to AX15 swamp a year or so ago and ran into the same problem. here's a link on how to make your own linkage. I may have posted this on here before but maybe not. If you read all the feedback there is a guy "hack" that sells the bracket. With a little time you can make the bracket. http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

I didn't drop the crossmember on mine. I think the MJ short or long bed is long enough so you don't have to lower the TC or use a SYE. The AX15 I got was from a 97 TJ. I had to redrill the holes in the back of the AX15 to make the TC work right.

This may be a little off topic but here goes. A year or so ago I bought a Rough Country long arm kit for my MJ. Mine had the BA/10 tansmission. I could not get the crossmenber to line up. I started making my own trans mount to fit. I finaly gave up and got an AX15. Anyway there are extra holes in the frame on an MJ that need to be tapped, then you can use different crossmember/transmission combinations. I modifided the RC crossmember so I could use the inside frame bolts as well. Also here is a good link on how to make your transfer case linkage work after you have changed transmissions and it does work. http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26 I ended up makeing my own bracket out of flat stock, just took awhile.

I had problems years ago. Changing the CAT solved them all.

Got it. Thanks

Over the last 2-3 years I have done some upgrades that work for me. Valve job and shaved the head .008, Rustys K&N air filter tube, Clifford header and full redo of the exhaust system to 2.5 inch with a hi flow cat. I'm working on this now but I only have 3.07 gears and haven't seen 5th gear since 1988. lol. Anyway with the butt test and several long steep grades in the area I can tell that the upgrades work.

EZ hitch was a player some time back. Mine is a Smitty Bilt tube with receiver built in and only good for about 2500 lbs or so. It mounts to the frame rail sides and maybe bottom. Can look tomorrow. But there is no way in hell that an MJ is gunna pull a class lll trailer.

Even though this thread is a year old I still have my .02 to give. i don't think you need a SYE because of the wheelbase. Why not take the input shaft from the new TC and put it in your original TC. Then no drive shaft modification is needed. There are several different input shafts so make sure its the right one. If not they are about $40-50 used.

Thanks for the comments. This one also has skid plates and a block heater. Whoever ordered this one must have ordered just about everything. here's a pic of the dusty interior. If you did;nt get a tach what was in that space?

wow Hope i'm not in the flame zone. Just trying to help out on the model id. This was a left over 1988 that I bought in the spring of 1989 well before the internet. I'll post some pics of the interior tomorrow