desertmike

Sorry Pete Don't know what a club card is.

Was out at the race and saw this. First time using phone. May need resizing?

My wife found this. https://www.hotcars.com/jeep-comanche-information-unknown-facts/

Awhile back someone was trying to come up with a set of frame stiffeners for the MJ's. Just wondering if its still in the works or fell by the wayside. Thanks

I read an article in a 4WD magazine back in the late 80's about a performance ecu for the jeep 4.0. It was supposed to increase fuel and timing and other things for more performance. Went to the Jeep dealer and they had one but it was over $400 at the time. Don't remember the p/n but could be the one above.

Took mine to the local starter/battery/alternator shop and had it rebuilt to 140 amps for $140. edit. No fitment problems that way.

Ok, got the stabilizer and ZJ tie rod installed. Also had to shorten the sway disconnects. They hit the inner fender when hitting a good bump. Had to thread 1 and 1/2 more inches and cut off the same amount. Will take for a test drive tomorrow.

First I didn't mean for my "lol" post to be a jab at anybody. I found "you KNOW you're going to die RIGHT NOW!" a little humorous. but it is true. Like I said Iv'e had some form of death wobble for 30 years or so and learned to live with it. shelbyluvv said it pretty well. Second I was trying to show another weak spot in the stabilizer. I haven't had mine off for 15 years.

lol

Death wobble is pretty much a common thing with me. Sometimes its there and sometimes not. Some minor, some severe. Change this, change that, balance tires, new tires etc. Everything helps but nothing seems to cure it. My steering stabilizer has been there for 15 to 20 years. Its an Rancho 5401 kit. I took the shock out to do some work and noticed that the bolt was sloppy inside the sleeve. The first pic shows the bolt inside the sleeve. Not a good fit. Its hard to see but the second pic shows that the sleeve is oblong. This is the sleeve that came originally with it. The new shock came with 3 different size sleeves. With bad fit of the bolt/sleeve and the banging of death wobble it made the sleeve oblong. Haven't put the new shock on yet but will update. Also installing new ZJ tie rod.

I bought this truck new so I know it has stock factory parts. My driveshaft is angled a little towards the passenger side. Maybe to clear the fuel tank? Just looking at it the tires seems to be centered in the wells.

Any update on this?

Thanks for the heads up. Maybe I'll do the front part (cab forward) since its pretty much an XJ and wait on the rear or build my own. Its to bad about t-m because they look pretty nice.

Going to do some under carriage work and was thinking of installing some frame stiffeners so everything fits together at the same time. Found these on here some years ago and was wondering if anybody has installed them and your opinion of them, Good, bad, indifferent etc. Can't find any reviews. Also square or round holes. Any other choices? http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=3896750

Excellent choice.......... Haven't heard about different clutch packs, but I do know that they can be set up a little on the tight side for more performance.

I should have added that if you have $1000 or so to get some type of electric locker or air locker. There is even one that is a limited slip by default and activated somehow and becomes a full locker.

Over the years I've had all different types of lockers. I would not recommend any type of auto locker or welded up spiders. Lots of people will disagree though. Driving with them is quirky at best. I have an E-locker up front and the factory limited slip in the rear D44 with thick gears, works great.

I used that pilot bushing but I think you need the .500 for that year AX15. I think the .750 shaft came out in 95/96?

I found this site on this forum several years ago. http://www.otrattw.net/home.php

My 88 SWB 4.0 ba10 might be 1/8 inch longer. Upgraded to AX15 years ago but same shaft. Bought truck new so no changes. swb,_4.o,____ax15-ba10/5,__np231,___d44= 42.25" I've got 42 3/8".

I just installed a front G2 Core 44 Elocker with 4.88 gears. I need to shorten the drive shaft. Are there any guide lines for doing this or just kinda measure the long and short travel and split the difference? I have a shop close by to do the work. I'm gunna post on a couple of forums so you may see this somewhere else also.

Thanks "jeep driver" that was interesting.

Its called a tension lock nut. Example at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-M12-1-75-Zinc-Plated-Tension-Lock-Nut-57328/202209783

Sorry, I misspoke. Its not a castle nut but a nut that is not quit round. If you look at the treads they are kind of oval. When you tighten them they clamp onto the bolt treads. They use them to keep axle shafts from coming loose ( backing plates come to mind). I can't think of the name right now.

Had a similar problem. Ended up using CASTLE nuts.