desertmike

After looking at fuel pumps, are the Renix ones different / alot different from the later ones?

Not trying to restrict the air, just giving it all it can use. Breathing through a straw is no fun.

Put a 2-3 inch hole in the fender side of the air box about 25 years ago. Don;t now if it helped but from my drag racing background more air is good.

Although I don't post all my petty problems I do lurk a lot. Getting ready for our 10 day stay at the KOH in Johnson Valley the 89 XJ was hard to start and keep running. Stalling out, backfireing, would only run above 2500, no power. After doing some of cruisers tips, cap, rotor, wires, grounds, plugs, checking vacuum etc, still no go. Checked some of the sensors on the MJ to test. Finally bought a fuel pressure tester from Auto Zone today. Put on the XJ and had 6 lbs of pressure, put on the MJ and had 40 lbs pressure, back on the XJ still 6 lbs. What is one of the better fuel pumps to replace with? Thanks in advance

I like Center Force 1 or 2.

Thanks I need 2 ordered

Sorry about the description. Was trying to post link but couldn't for some reason. Yes that is the boot I'm looking for. Found that P/N and pic on another forum and thought I would pass it along. Didn't think it was available anymore.

Can"t paste links for some reason. Jeep P/N 52104217

If I posted this before please delete. Been gathering info on a alternator upgrade for awhile. Trying to figure which way to go. The local alternator rebuild shop will rebuild mine to 140 amps for about $150 +/-. Buy something and make it fit or install a new 160 amp alternator made for the renix. http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9356-alternator-high-output-160-amp-40-jeep-cherokee-87-88-89-90-wagoneer.aspx Anybody tried one of these?

You got it made. Take everything from the the drivetrain. The AX15, cross member, the tcase, T/C shifter linkage (very important), trans shifter, and the shifter rubber boots inside the console if still good. You can use your existing speedo gear. Nut, bolts, etc never hurt. You may need to change the T/C rear output housing to fit the driveshaft.

Don't have one but need to know if its for BA/10 or AX15. They are different.

Done this several times. The cross members are different. The BA/10-TC shift linkage will not work on the AX15.

I have the Quardratec ones and they do move around some. Your heal gets cought sometimes with the clutch pedal.

Mine does the same thing. Always has, even since new. I checked the voltage at the battery and it was 14 something. The voltage to the gauge must get lost somewhere.

Clifford is still around in SoCal. The part # I bought was 57-2000. The one in the link is a little different but you could call them if interested. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=57-2015&Category_Code=J258

I bought a Clifford header back in 2002. It came with the fitting for EGR and O2 (Renix motor). Kind of a pain to install though. Still on and working good. Got the whole exhaust system done also. Hi flow cat and 2 1/2 tubing.

Thanks for all the input. Not going to do SOA. Not to concerned with a level truck in the begining, looking at 6 months or so down the road. Talked to Hell Creek and he likes the stock factory rake, so I think he builds his a little high. What about Rusty's 4 inch leafs? I have several of his products that work fine. I also know that he has some good and bad reviews.

I installed the 4 1/2 inch long arm. I tapped the third hole and and welded a spacer bracket on the crossmember and now have 5 bolts per side plus the ones on the side bracket.

daking I'm with you on the limited tow but a reciever is nice to have. I got mine bent up tonight. The Smittybilt one I have now has diagonal braces on both sides from the reciever tube to the frame mount rails and I've towed alot with it and no problems. I'm going to put some extra bracing in. I wish it was 1/4 or even 5/16 thick metal. The strenght would be nice but the extra weight would be great. I have some 3/4 flat stock I might weld in for some extra weight. Hope this helps.

Thanks for both infos. I have BW flaires so I had to crawl under to measure. The front is 11 3/4 which says I have about 5 inch lift in front. Seems high but I don't know. The rear is 9 1/2. So if the 6 inch stock is a good number then I'm at about 3 1/2 already, thats with add a leaf and extended shackles. I jacked up the rear bumper to make it level. Ended up being 10 1/2. So I guess I need sometihing in 4 1/2 inch range. If I could get a measurement from under the rear axle from somebody that has the 3 inch Hell Creek springs and the 4 1/2 springs that would be great. Thanks

Need some leaf spring info. I replaced my front Rancho lift (2-3 inch) with RC 4.5 Long Arm kit. I kept the rear original rear springs with the Rancho Add A Leaf. don't know if its MJ or XJ specific but covers most of the upper spring. Anyway the back sits way to low even with the RC extended shackles. Hell Creek is about the only maker of lifted springs now and they only have 3” and 4.5”. I'm sure the rear leafs have sagged over 25 years even with the add a leaf. So my question is Should I go with the 3” or the 4.5 “ spring. Don't want to buy 2 sets the find out. I also don't mind cutting some of the front spring to make it level. Don't want to use a ladder to get in and out either. I'm leaning toward the 3” and adjust the front. How much do they settle after awhile? How do they ride? etc. 1988 SWB, front bumper and winch

Glad it worked out. Done this conversion 2 times now. Also used there slave cylinder and braided line which comes with several adapters for diff year master cyl.

I have the JCR bumpers for the front (installed) and rear but not installed. Please post how the lights work. I would like to do something like that. The other thing I'm doing is to use a piece of receiver stock for the hitch in the rear. The one supplied is not hitch material.

I've been through a few track bars and the early ones (xx to about 91,92) had smaller joints on the frame end and the bracket is smaller than later ones. What started all this was that I bought a track bar from somebody and it would not fit into the frame bracket. After some work I figured out the later ones had bigger joints.

I have in my notes that I used this one but double check. http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716164--pilot-bushing-750quot-id-x-1818quot-od/