Jeepman

Those are nice however I went with these... Image Not Found

Ya I have searched for the Brackets with no luck... This is the only actual picture I have seen of the Factory hidden Winch... Image Not Found

The Spec is 1.5 times the Vehicle weight minimum but Usually Bumped up to 8000lbs... Personally I go up as large as you can afford as the typical weight of the actual winch does not increase by much and you get greater pulling strength with less cable out... I run a 12000lbs Mile Marker on a Warn Winch Bumper

Ya I am running over 8" of Lift and No SYE needed either and I too am running a D44

Prefer Manual On and Offroad (three feet not needed when you have throttle lever or at least not as much) But My old Knee's can't take the day to day Manual so My truck Was Converted to Auto From Manual...

Hornbrod you are correct. It's not my thread but it's frustrating when the words on the page are not interpreted or misinterpreted. Others oponions are great just not someone speaking as a fact when realistically there are too many variables to be a fact. I will just take myself out of the equation. As they say cooler heads prevail and I thank you for the intervention so to speak.

Stop already Your not Proving anything... My Opinion and experience is just that MINE so enough... You Still DO not understand and YES in my OPINION all the lean system is as said already one of the reasons the manifolds crack and Yes they are a crap design But guess what Borla Headers Crack and So do any other header made and again IN my OPINION its cause the manifolds get too Hot and you add that with the Stiff ride and bumps and bangs of a Jeep suspension and it stretches the metal... Its MY OPINION and You do not have to like it and you can try to bully your way but I am Not one to be bullied as I am No kid who can easily be scared and Have had more then 10 Years Just Working on and Tearing apart just about every model of Jeep ever made... Again Thanks for your Opinion but it was Not asked for Nor Wanted in MY Thread... Again Moderators Please close this thread as I see it becoming a Problem and things are going to get out of hand...

You should have no trouble finding the VSS in the Junkyard... Here is a Pic of the style you need... http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/speedo/speed5.jpg

VSS is the same for both the 231 and the 242.. Are you installing all the Harness and everything or Just the Why are you not using the one on the 00XJ???? You can grab one of these http://www.wranglerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=235230&thumb=1&d=1365794762 I have used them in the past when doing a 4.0L conversion and keeping the Stock T-case and style Speedo gear...

Cruiser Thanks and I am sure you have great success at it too but You Keep Missing the point to these posts you chose to ignore what I have said or are purposely trying to start a fight however I just refuse to debate with someone when there is No Debate... Of all the sites I belong to this is one I probably enjoy the most and is the only one I donate Money to as it is specific to my truck and like minded people, and I like the normal peace and quite here... Mods please just close the thread or delete it as I am done...

Haven't used them myself and it would depend on the purpose of your MJ... If you measure them from center bolt to center bolt, I am sure you will find they are the same length (since the lowers fit near perfectly) and if So I would use them over the OE Crappy uppers if I were a short arm kit still but for you it may not be worth doing if your stock and plan on staying stock...

I can say if your a 91+ the Auto harness should work fine as the main harness just controls the engine anyways since your manual you won't need the auto connections so just use your manual Computer and it will never know the difference... I say this as I have used Both Manual and Auto Harness's when converting Carbed 4.2L to 4.0L's... If your a Renix system the TPS for an auto has 2 connectors whereas the Manual only has 1 so I would assume as long as you use the manual TPS you would be fine... This is a Guess because The Only Renix systems I have worked with was removing them form OBDI or OBDII conversions...

Lets just Nip this Right Now... I have not and will not speak in absolutes and anyone that does is arrogant to do so, as no two setups are exactly the same so this is not going to be a Pi$$ing contest... Nor am I speaking specifically to a certain setup to pi$$ anyone off... I will Never say "you have to do this or have to that or tell you your wrong" its your Jeep you do what you want I am just giving information and my experience in MY thread... This Thread was for specific Injector information what is done with that information is up to the person who uses that Injector... We can disagree and as said already before In my experience the factory injectors are too small for my ME if they work for you that's great its your Jeep and I do not know it so why would I say your wrong for your application, but if your speaking for everyone else in the world then that's wrong as you do not and will not have hands on every Jeep to truthfully say that... I absolutely detest anyone that tries to tell me either in person or over the internet what works or does not work for my Jeep when they have ZERO knowledge of my Jeep or what I have done to my Jeep or what I am going to do to my Jeep... As I have Said Over and Over Again " You Need to monitor the A/F to get it setup properly to how you want it and it seams to not have been read"... This is My experience with an A/F gauge and actually testing it on Jeeps and even minor changes will cause an effect on the A/F ratio so I do not believe injector swaps are just for strokers and forced induction but again its up to the person to test the A/F ratio's to figure out what's best for them ... Do as you will with the info as I do not want to bicker over personal opinion... Hornbrod has a great option as well for those who either can not do the testing themselves or do not want to...

Not saying the injector directly control the A/F however indirectly they do have an effect on it regardless of the computer, because the computer will always try to get the A/F perfect to 14.7 which it can not do in all conditions especially when the injectors are too large or too small for the application... Example: If the computer could do this just by adjusting the duty cycle there wouldn't be a need for larger or smaller injectors, try installing the incorrect injectors and you will see the ECU will try its best to get the ratio right, but it will not and then you lose power and fuel economy... As for Stock having headroom I assume you mean they have room to grow into which I will disagree with as I believe they are too small from the factory which is why 4.0L's especially run leaner then I like but that's how they were engineered and I believe that's the main reason for manifold cracks as well... This is just MY Personal experiences having worked on and tested several Jeeps and By No means am I declaring my experience is the only one, That's why I have said its best to run an A/F gauge and monitor each application which is what I do it in my business just to make sure because you can crunch the numbers all day long but that never means that's the correct option just a good starting point... Test test and test more, as each vehicle will have different needs as NO 2 Jeeps are built exactly the same...

My first post here I stated its not a good idea to swap back to the stock fuel pressure because these 710 injectors would run too low lbs and the 703 (16.75lbs@43.5psi which is 14-16lbs@31-39psi) slightly smaller then the 710's which is probably why that chart suggests changing the Pressure regulator... Your 710's are 18.25lbs@43.5psi so yes they are basically good for 18-19lbs... What it seams like to me is these injectors leaned you out (exactly how much I can not say till we know what your OE injectors were) which is why you felt more power and fuel economy... It ran poorly because you were down to 15.4lbs@31psi and 17.3@39psi and your engine wanted more Fuel... Well first thing I would do is see what your rail pressure is when the system primes when cold (without cranking) and check again when Hot... I would be thinking that your IAC is either dirty, not working properly or just not understanding the system and not allowing enough air in after you shut down warm I had a similar issue with my engine when I had my largest injectors in and swapped IAC's 3 times with no change cold it would start and hot I would have to have my foot on the throttle to get it to run... As I changed my injectors the IAC adjusted the idle air better to match my fuel so its not impossible its the IAC but without seeing the truck its only a guess... My A/F is Great and currently I am running a little rich at WOT (120KPH+) but I still have some tweeking to do still... As for the install it is very easy to do and if you can not weld the 02 bung in you just get a local Muffler shop to drill the hole and weld in the bung then everything else is as simple as mounting the gauge where you want it and adding switched power... Its awesome monitoring device to have in the Jeep, I run an Autometer Phantom as I had a certain look I was after but you can get inexpensive ones at http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/...

What is the Part number on your current Injectors? I ask because that's really the only way to know what your running now and what will be a Perfect replacement for what You are currently using...

Ya the Jeepz decoder is no good as it says my Vin which is original 2WD is a 4WD and the uscars one says my eliminator is exactly the same as the one listing on ebay so neither one is any good...

That VIN saying 7 foot bed is Interesting...

No worries as I am not saying they are wrong for you or anyone else as for that matter, each Jeep is different and as a Stock replacement they are a better option due to the 4 hole nozzle over the 1 hole nozzle... Just that to tune specifically the injector size its best to monitor the A/F ratio and find the best spot for the engine, people do not realize that every little change to the engine can and will have an effect on the performance of the engine so a simple changing the exhaust flow can change the needs of the engine.... By chance you still have your OE injectors? if so find the part number on them and I can see what the stock specs are... Its always good to know what your changing so you know why your getting a better performance or worse performance then OE... When I installed my 4.7L Stroker engine I added an A pillar air fuel gauge so I can monitor my ratios and my first set of injectors I ran worked great for the engine and I was mostly happy with the Power till I decided to swap them for another set I had but couldn't find them so I used my slightly smaller set and found a Huge increase in power and much better A/F ratio... I am by no means done tweeking and testing but if you have the ability to monitor before and after your changes you will have better success with the changes you make...

which is why I see people over look the injectors more then anything else I think... Your 703's are 16.75lbs@43.5psi which is 14.1bs@31psi and 15.9lbs@39psi which I think is too low but that really depends on your truck and other mods to your truck... In my experience the OE injectors are undersized from the factory to run lean which adds more power and better fuel economy but the adverse effect is the manifolds crack due to the lean conditions and you can verify this yourself if need be... running a little rich is safer for the engine but will cost you a little more in fuel...

Done

The Bosch Injector # 0280155700 is 18.25lbs @43.5psi Which means if your running 44psi they are 18.5 and on the throttle 48psi then they are 19.2lbs I think you could be close to where you should be but since I do not know your stock injector as they were more then one size used and I can not remember the last time I had an OBDI engine to play with and really the best way to get injectors sizing correct is with an A/F gauge... In this case I wouldn't go back to your stock regulator without testing your A/F ratio as you could be too little fuel as it would drop the injectors down to 15.4lbs@31psi and 17.3@39psi... How is the power feel and what is your fuel economy like as the wrong injectors will rob you of power and or rob your wallet to pay for fuel...

Yup always Count the teeth, both the ring and the pinion...

Did you record how you modified it to work? Or know where I could find detailed instructions on doing so? I apologize for hijacking your thread Knucklehead. I need to fix my leaking gas tank as well and would like to just replace the fuel pump and sending unit as well as the o-ring. No sorry I don't think I kept the pics and info from back then but it was really easy for me... Looks Like it was 7 years ago I Did it but this is the only pics I have left but they are just the senders not the mods.. Image Not Found

Supercharging the 4.0L or 2.5L is Super easy with Junkyard parts as long as you don't have or want to keep your A/C... The Rimmer kit is Very reasonable as it uses a Reconditioned SC or you can just buy the mounting bracket kit and grab a JY one yourself... I use the Eaton M90 which is far easier to adapt to anything over the M62... I have also sis a custom one off M90 SC into an 05 Jeep TJ Rubicon over 6 years ago before there was an fuel management options like there are today... I will be installing a M90 onto my 4.7L stroker in the spring as I want to break the engine in for a few months before adding the SC... Also had a Friend with a 4 banger 97 TJ who added a custom Turbo and its still going today more then 8 years now so its possible to make a 2.5 last with a turbo or SC...