HKB3

The US Navel Academy, Annapolis Maryland

watched the Blue Angles fly today at the US Navel Academy sorry for the crappy pics, its the best I could do with an iPhone

Drove it to see these: and my truck overheated stuck in traffic leaving :rant:

the way I see it is they(JCR) are just contracting out the work to fab shops that will give them the best price on multi piece orders % they do not want to continue the MJ stuff cause it will just sit in stock, now in my opinion if JCR was making their parts in-house I see no reason why they would not make special order parts one at a time for a premium cost. Just my $.02 PS for what some of theses places charge you could by a welder, build your own for about the same or less & have pride in something you made yourself:thumbsup:

:yes: :agree: The OEM step bumper and tube bumper were "options" back then, just look in the FSM, under accessories, and it tell the "dealer" how to install them :brows: Some states, like NY required them.......along with the front license plate bracket. The rear license plate light mounted to the rear apron was "stock" off the factory floor, unless the rear bumper was checked off. And......to answer the poll........some OEM's some FEY's after markets........a real mix on my fleet. don`t know the history of my truck, but it does still have the tag light behind the bumper & looks to be wired from the factory/dealer when new( the tag lights on the bumper are spliced from them)

Just put on my class III hitch a few days ago

what size are those tires?

bump for updates?

someone please pass the popcorn :popcorn:

the 8th digit in the VIN will tell what the original engine was P = 2.5L Unleaded-Gasoline S = 4.0L Unleaded-Gasoline

crappy iPhone pics next up: replace rear window(got one at the junkyard yesterday) rust repair axle swap/lift new tires

I am going to give away my old timer secret here, wet toilet paper & a punch (close to the size of the bearing/bushing hole as possible). 1) take wet toilet paper and insert it into the bushing till no more will fit 2) use hammer & punch to drive the toilet paper in, making more space 3) repeat step one & two till the pilot bearing/bushing falls out I have been using this method for almost 20 years and it has worked every time.

clean looking MJ :cheers: I`d lose the stickers though :thumbsup:

drove it for the first time in 2 years, got the AX-15 swap finished finally

what part of MD are you in?

I don`t know where you guys are buying stuff that cheap. I just checked car-part.com an AX-15 goes for $450-$950 & $400-$850 for a 231 x-case. You all were close on the motor though, $300-$600 for a 87 4.0. I probably have over $500 in new clutch parts(I would have to check the invoice).

I finally decided to go forward with the LS swap in my MJ, the stock motor is a 1987 4.0 with 117,xxx miles runs very good(rear main seal barely leaks). It is mated to a BA-10 which is broke(stuck in 1st gear, still moves with no unusual noises just can`t shift out of first gear). I also have an AX-15/231 from a 96 XJ, new flywheel, new clutch, new mopar clutch slave&master cyl. (new parts are still in the box). I think $900 would be a fair price for the AX-15/231 & new parts. what do you think a fair price would be for the engine? Thanks

Maybe this should have been posted in the wanted section? anyway looking for a NEW rear glass weatherstrip(gasket) I spent about 2 hours on google with no luck. I did locate one in the local boneyard but its in worst shape then the one I need to replace. I am sure someone here has retro fitted something or has a source for a reproduction piece. Thanks

Need rear window, prefer solid glass(not slider) let me know, some crackhead theif decided to break mine.

Try selling a racecar on racingjunk.com, when I had my mustang for sale on there I got offers for everything from harleys to bass boats to land :rotf:

I have a body lift for an XJ for sale if you are interested This: +this +this &this will get you a body lift :hijack: welcome BTW :smart:

I will be building a cable setup similar to this: (*there in no flipkit on this 300, I will be using a flipkit like pictured below) except I am going the have three levers, one for the range box & one each for front/rear I want to try and keep everything factory looking on the interior with the levers in the stock location. D&D sells this shifter set up which is nice but you are limited in options of where the shifters will be.

I have all the parts for the pukegoat to AX-15 swap except the x-case shifter linkage. Should I just get the whole x-case shifter & linkage from a donor XJ(would it make things any easier?). Its only going to be a temporary set up so I can move my truck again, the 231/D300 will be going in when my money tree starts growing again.

I prefer american made stuff but you toyota "haters" might want to watch this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWc_flGRT_o http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFbl673JRRc just sayin

got 24"+ here :bowdown: although the MJ is comfortably hiding in my shop I did get to go have some fun in mt DD TJ first flakes falling around 10 pm friday night 6:30am saturday morning...about 10" snow sometime saturday afternoon...15"-18"