Blue XJ

don't get rowdy and I've never had an issue. In fact, even when we've gotten rowdy i havent had an issue. Lol

The two big ones are the campground at the park, and Summer's campground, it's about a 10-15 minute drive on country roads. Summer's has a pool, and lots of trees and is spread out. They have camp store as well. The one at the park does not have any trees, but they have a new bath house that is really nice.

Let me know if they changed the entrance tk the pink trail. I was there a few months ago and got denied on the first obstacle. There used to be a third rock in the middle on the backside, it is no longer there. Image Not Found Image Not Found

This was my first purchase since I signed up and probably my first purchase in about 3 years from them. Maybe that had something to do with it. Oh well, looking forward to getting the tires in 2-3 weeks.

Yep, talked to Devin. He said the best he could do was $10 off per tire if I bought the Pro Comps, I went with BFG's since the Goodyears are on back order and I didn't want the Pro Comps, regardless of how hard he was pushing them. There was a manufacturer rebate of $50 if you buy 4, that was all he was willing to do. Which I would have got regardless of where I bought them.

Yeah, I mistyped on my first post, he shouldn't have any issue running them parallel to each other. That is prefered, criss cross would be bad, assuming the insulation failed.

Well, I didn't end up getting a discount or anything, but at least they are on order. The only discount was if I ordered their house tires. (Pro Comps)

I was looking at the Duratracs, but they don't have a 35" for a 15" rim. I think I'm going to try the MT/R's with Kevlar. I have Truxs M/T's now, they are the best tire I have ever ran, but they are a little to expensive this time around. $330 each. I found someone local selling a set of 5 315/75r16 MT/R's on TJ Rubicon wheels for a great price, but I have manual hubs up front and there isn't a hole in the middle of stock wheels for the hub to fit through.

Thanks, I'll have to give him a call tomorrow, looking for a new set of tires, 10% would be really nice on top of the free shipping they are offering on them.

So what happens when you want to order from them but can't find the member card you got in the mail? How do you still receive the discount?

There are conversion kits for the dana 30, warn, milimarker, omix ada and a few other companies make them. They are about $1200 though, I picked up a used Warn kit for $250 quite a few years back. I haven't had any issues with it, it's nice to unlock the hubs and not worry about ruining $150 wheel bearings when wheeling in the mud and water. For a factory application, I don't think there was a D30 except the ones in the old CJ's. You'd have to get into a dana 44 for manual hubs, unless you bought the conversion kit. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/alloy-usa-d30-manual-locking-hub-complete-conversion-kit-all-12195.html

You should have any issues running them like that. The EMI field that might come out of them if the insulation is damage will interfere with others less than compared to crossing each other perpendicularly.

That's what he is asking, it won't work if he swaps the whole drivetrain in. It needs to have the parts that work with his year electronics. Unless he is swapping harnesses too.

There are 3 or 4 companies that sell them aftermarket. They use Ranger hubs. I grabbed the Warn kit about 10 years ago for only a couple dollars, its still going strong. I have the 5x4.5 kit.

If its a manual you are the trans controller, the Jeep doesn't have one unless its an auto.

Summer's is a good one, but the park has one on site now that has nice ammenities. There aren't really any shaded spots, but it's a decent campground.

Man, I just tossed 2 complete sets of stockers in the trash a few months ago. I would have gave them to you.

As long as it's a 90 you should be able to plug and play. If it's a 91+ they use different electronics on them, so it could be a little more involved. You'd still need the flywheel and crank sensor from the 87-90 vintage, but the rest would work, I was able to adapt the Renix (87-90) throttle position sensor to work with the HO (91+) thorttle body. Mine has a 95 4.0, 98 AX15, 90 NP231 with 99 Axles, using the stock wiring harness.

I disagree with this, my 90 still had the 21 spline input gear on it, it was an automatic, but it was 21 spline. Maybe the manual trans versions changed in mid-89. From what I found when looking for a 23 spline gear, there were 21 spline cases and 23 spline cases, the 23 spline went from a small bearing to a large bearing some time around 93-94. And all of the t-cases were available with different length input gears. I managed to find a guy in Wisconsin that specialized in trans/tcases that had hundreds of input gears on the shelf, he sold me the one I needed for $50.

If he is using the engine and trans from the Wrangler, the pilot bearing will be correct, since they work together now. The crank sensor will be incorrect, as will the flywheel. I did more or less the same swap, (HO motor and trans into a Renix Jeep) You need the Renix flywheel and crank sensor installed for it to function correctly, assuming you are keep the wiring and computer from the 1988. If you are swapping the wiring and computer as well, then you can just use everything as it came out of the 2002.

Even with the hubs unlocked, everything in the front axle will still spin if your in 4x4, it just won't be under load since it isn't 'connected' at the wheel. I would look into bearings in the front axle.

I think in 95 or 96 the AX15 trans switched to a Metric thread, I know the one in my Jeep is from a 99 and it is an M10 thread. The MJ era AX's should be a 3/8" thread.

There is no way he is spinning 3k rpms at 55 or 60 with 3.07's and 31's. I ran 31's with 4.56's and it didn't rev that high at those speeds.

National is a good brand. Been around forever.

I run 10w30 in mine with a zinc additive, mine is a stroker with higher spring pressure, the new oils are designed for better emissions, not to protect old non roller cams. Look up what happens when your zinc levels are too low in older motors, lots of cam failures,