gogmorgo

Weird. That definitely looks like a 36 to me. Does the CEL stay on with the key running? Or I guess it would anyhow with the 41 active, so maybe don’t worry too much until that’s dealt with. Have you tried clearing codes to see if it goes away? What’s the source of the ECU you used, and is there a way you could put it back in a functional vehicle its “supposed” to be in to see what happens? I’m mostly wondering about some faulty aftermarket programming on a reman unit and it looking for something that doesn’t exist or blinking an incorrect code. On other Chrysler engines 36 would be a problem with the smog pump/A.I.R. system, but I don’t see any reference to the AMC/Jeep engines having smog pumps, even with Cali emissions equipment. I don’t know what euro emissions equipment might be either but I think that’s also barking up the wrong tree. Google found me a couple instances of XJs and YJs supposedly showing a code 36, but in most of them the OP realized they were reading the codes incorrectly, a few references to clearing the codes and it not coming back, but also lots of orphan threads with no resolution.

Did you remember to plug in your waste gate solenoid? That’s an odd one for sure, I don’t think there’s too many early 90’s Chrysler gas engines with turbochargers on them. Browsing through some service manuals I see air switch solenoids referenced in smog pump setups, secondary air injection or whatever you want to call it, that would pump fresh air into the exhaust for emissions purposes. But I don’t think a ‘92 YJ would have that, unless it’s a California thing… Honestly my first inclination would be to double check you’re definitely getting the correct codes. 35 is a fan control relay/circuit concern, you don’t have anything unplugged beyond the alternator?

Do these all clip onto the MJ mirror mount or are we doing something else to install them?

Yeah my ‘04 Sierra 2500HD doesn’t have the on-star button. TBH I don’t think it even has the compass and temp readout, at least if it does I don’t remember them being there. But it’s also a base model with manual everything.

Bookmark this thread: The Check Engine Light only comes on while a code is active, so if the light is off it’s probably not a huge concern. Inactive codes are stored for 50 key cycles or until they’re cleared. I’ve always been able to clear codes just by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, let it sit for a couple minutes for good measure. Hornbrod’s procedure there with the headlights and touching battery terminals together ensures all capacitors in the system get discharged and all data gets erased which might help with a stubborn code, but I’ve never needed to do it. If the code comes back it typically means the problem wasn’t corrected.

Well at least it seems like our consensus here is that flipping your high beams up to let someone know you’re about to pass is a fool move, haha. I got a little concerned, it’s standard practise in some parts of the world but I think it’s a practise that should have died with sealed beams. I don’t know how many times someone has caught up to me on a two-lane highway and sat there for a bit, then when we hit a passing lane and I pull off into the right lane to let them by and that blip of high beam into my mirror leaves me seeing spots. Usually it’s a high-end SUV of some kind. I strongly suspect we’ve got manufacturer cost cutting to blame for some of the poor aim and glare. Its getting common for the aiming adjustment to be one adjuster that does a diagonal sweep, so lights just get a compromise on left/right and up/down. Couple this with everyone putting a levelling kit on their truck, and the market getting flooded with junk LEDs off Amazon that really can’t be aimed correctly, we’re just getting set up to fail there.

Fuel pressure is definitely low, and your symptoms are consistent with low fuel pressure, not wanting to rev with load, backfiring, stalling. The pressure test is done with the engine running. Should be in the low 30’s at idle, and jump up to at least 39psi when you pull the vacuum line off the pressure regulator (at the end of the fuel rail). Bypass the fuel pump ballast resistor, see if it changes. Also confirm you put the new filter in the correct direction, if there’s an arrow on it, it points in the direction of flow, from the tank to the engine. It should point forwards in the truck. If it was backwards you’ll want a new filter, just to be sure nothing caught on the wrong side gets pumped up to the injectors. Did you have the code 54 before or after changing the distributor? I’d be a little skeptical of a reman. If you pop the rotor off and can wiggle the distributor shaft around it can be enough to throw off the sensor, and cause erratic readings. I’ve had code 54 on a couple engines now and on at least one of them there was significant play in the shaft, and both were corrected with a replacement distributor. They also backfired and died on me a bunch. The redesigned distributor for a ‘95 Cherokee is a plug and play replacement, and is a serviceability improvement in that you won’t need to pull the distributor out and apart to change the cam position sensor. But I wouldn’t just go out and change it without a reason, I doubt there’s any other advantage to it. Depending on the source of the rest of the sensors, I’d be inclined to put the originals back on, especially if you didn’t diagnose a problem with them. That said I’ve had to change the TPS on every early 90’s Jeep I’ve owned (after a code 24), and the parts store sensor’s always been fine. I’ve never personally seen a Crank Position Sensor go bad but that doesn’t mean they don’t, just that I’m skeptical of it being the internet’s go-to solution to everything. But I do know there’s definitely been lots of problems reported with an aftermarket CPS so the recommendation is to always go Mopar there.

What is the point of flash to pass? And how does it work, like you just don’t pull the stalk all the way and the high beams come on until you let go?

“Do you have access to Google” Weird thing that people assume something is incorrect just because they haven’t heard of something before. I’m sure I’m guilty of it too. I had a similar experience after running over a deer while making an insurance claim. Might have helped avoid getting the truck written off. The girl handling the claim said she’d never heard of a Comanche before, and there was some obvious googling noises and then “oh cool it’s a little truck. I wonder what these are worth… I don’t see any others for sale in Manitoba, yours is higher mileage but it must be in good shape if you just drove it to Alberta and back… yeah we’ll fix it” I was expecting the HOA conversation to go a different direction considering a Comanche is 15 years older than a Commander and there’s a bit of a reputation with HOAs and old trucks.

Factory chassis code. I’m sure they’ve had meaning ascribed to them after the fact but I have a hard time believing they were more than random strings of lettres. Like the CJ was a Civillian Jeep but I’m pretty sure everything else was just a vague homage to that. I also don’t use the chassis codes IRL, just as a shorthand on the internet. Especially when talking to the guy at the parts counter. His computer doesn’t say XJ, and definitely doesn’t say MJ.

The lower seat belt bolts shouldn't be that bad to deal with. Make sure you're using the correct size torx bit and use a pick and clean out the hole before putting the bit into it. If you do strip out the head (or like me you got sick of breaking torx bits off in it), very carefully cut the bolt behind the seat belt, pull everything out of the way including the carpet, and you should have a pretty sizeable stub of bolt left sticking out. You might be able to grab it with vice grips at this point but if not definitely weld a nut on. You don't want a little nut, get a big one like a 9/16 or 5/8" that you can slide over the end of the bolt stub, don't try welding something little to the face of the stub that you can barely get your welder tip into or you'll just fill the nut with weld and barely penetrate the bolt. Give the end of the bolt a bit of a taper and clean up the sides really well. Push the nut on so it's flush with the tip of the bolt. Don't quite throw the welding rulebook out the window because you still need the weld to hold but you want to get that bolt HOT while you're doing it almost as much as you want to fill the gap with weld. The heat does two things. First it breaks down any locktight still in there. Second, it expands the bolt, but because the bolt is constrained by the hole it's not going to expand as much in that direction, but then as it cools it shrinks down in all directions, making it less tight in the hole. Even if you don't have a nut to weld on, just heating up the bolt with a torch or induction heater and letting it cool down again might be enough you can grab it with vicegrips and spin it loose. Let the nut cool down before you put a socket on it, don't accelerate the cool down process too much or you risk making the bolt and weld brittle. I find you're less likely to snap a bolt off with an impact wrench, but the latest high torque cordless impacts definitely have the capacity to break a bolt that size so go gentle at first if you're using something like that. One of my coworkers likes to weld a washer to the broken bolt and then weld a nut to the washer when he's doing an extraction. There's probably an argument to be made about better penetration into the bolt by doing it that way, which definitely seems like the issue I deal with most often if a welded on nut breaks off. But I suspect the second heating cycle also helps there.

Stumbled across a video just now that I took of an avalanche coming down on that canoe trip, an upper bowl shedding a slab and cascading down a rock face just a little left from centre of the frame. If you turn up the volume you can hear the low rumble of it coming down. That peak is about 5000' higher than the level of the lake, if you're wondering about scale.

I don’t, sorry. The Vevor specifically is not a product I’ve used or even handled, just happened to get an ad for it I guess, figured I’d share the link as an example of the sort of box I was talking about. I only knew that half-bed style side box existed from flipping through accessory catalogues, and it’s just a coincidence I saw the ad within a timeframe where we were talking about it. Can’t really recommend a brand or supplier either. I haven’t found a truck toolbox I particularly like, not that I’ve really been looking for one.

The chart you’re looking at is reasonably accurate for both XJ and MJ. There are a few exceptions, of course, but they’re not common, and usually the result of a swap. The one thing that’s missing from the list, the 2.5 was available both with a four-speed and five-speed manual transmission, the AX4 and AX5 respectively. The AX4 would come with 3.55 gears and the AX5 with 4.10. I suspect that’s what that blanket statement is referencing but sometimes information available online is simply not accurate.

Meh. No one running a company that large gives a $#!& about any of us at the bottom. Doesn’t matter what country they send their money back to. All they care about is making money for the shareholders, who are the exact same group of people who give no $#!&s about us. The shareholders vote for who runs the show, the more money you have the more shares you can buy and the more votes you get. Every large company is like this. And the bottom line is that low-feature cars don’t sell well and don’t generate much revenue so no one wants to build them. Until we have an entire generation of people who aren’t wanting to massively overspend when buying a new car I don’t see that changing. The people who are sensible with their money aren’t buying new cars, and manufacturers only build cars for the people who will buy them.

So why are you replacing more than you need to? The main purpose of permanently locking in the cad is to gain the reliability of a non-cad axle without needing to go to the trouble and expensive of changing the whole axle, or pulling the diff apart to change the shaft and seals. There’s a tried and true way to do that quickly and easily that involves a very small amount of work and no new parts or much screwing around. The people who have issues locking in the cad are the people deviating from the tried and true. If you’ve got reasons for deviating from the tried and true that’s understandable enough, I guess. To each their own. There’s all kinds of ways to do things, and people even get away with doing things completely incorrectly. In all honesty I know a guy who shoved a non-cad shaft into a CAD housing in his daily driver in a pinch about ten years ago without the proper seals and never got around to correcting it, and it still hasn’t exploded. Obviously I can’t recommend doing that but it shows what kind of stuff people are out there doing and being successful at despite all the odds. You never know what the thing a guy is recommending is actually going to do. The other issue with the internet is people will tell you what they did that afternoon and never come back and admit that it exploded a week later. But when you’ve got a bunch of people who have done the exact same thing that doesn’t have huge concerns like puking seals or imbalanced shafts or misaligned components and it’s held up for 20+ years and are suggesting you probably shouldn’t deviate from that… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I mean that’s not saying a ton, the ZJ only came with a D35 for the first couple years even with the 5.2.

The only time I’ve seen the fork break during a cad delete was after someone used a bolt to replace the CAD actuator shaft. It didn’t look like they had it lined up straight in the housing, so there was awkward bending/twisting pressure on the fork. If you leave the actuator shaft in place everything stays seated where it’s supposed to and that shouldn’t happen.

I’m still trying to track down an 8.1/ZF6 truck but I’m starting to think I’ll have to build my own, they’re just not out there.

It’s been below 0°F every morning this week, staying well below freezing during the day. To keep things on theme I guess, this is from last winter. Its a 2500 HD with a 6.0/NV4500 4x4. I bought it dirt cheap, slapped new tires and brakes on it, and made a bunch of trips across western Canada with it. I was thinking I was going to sell it once I was done moving, but I like the truck enough I hung onto it. It’s definitely a little rough around the edges but it did about 5000km in a week December before last on highways that looked like this: Maybe some day I’ll manage to move in the summer.

not exactly recent snow but it’s still well below freezing here, and the snow hasn’t gone anywhere. and 18” of old crusty snow is apparently a little too much for my MJ. And the GMC that wasn’t even that deep. But I did eventually get backed up to my front door for moving purposes.

As someone who has sunk money into rebuilding a Dana 35, I recommend doing not that. I had something else going on the second time it failed in my ZJ and needed a full rebuild and it was less time and effort for me to rebuild a second time. Ditto on the third rebuild. So far it’s holding on but I’m not rebuilding it again. If a swap isn’t on the table I would still try finding a decent used axle, and put new bearings and seals in that before rebuilding the same housing again with all new gears. If you’re just swapping the carrier and reusing the MJ’s gear set, it shouldn’t be too big a deal. Get a dial indicator and measure your gear lash before pulling the MJ’s carrier, keep track of any shims when you disassemble it, (you might find them under the bearing cup on the housing or between carrier and bearing cone) and make sure they go back in the exact same place. Measure the lash again and make sure it’s the same. If you’re trying to reuse the XJ’s gear set, this is complicated. You don’t really want to wear a second pattern into the used gears. To do it “correctly” you would need to measure lash and then pinion depth in the XJ (this requires $$$ specialized tools), get the pinion depth exactly the same in the MJ, and then get the lash set exactly the same as the XJ. You can get reasonably close just using gear marking compound and replicating the XJ’s contact pattern in the MJ, but you likely won’t get it perfect. And the result of a new wear pattern is that any high spots in the old pattern will wear off quickly in the new pattern, massively increasing gear lash and flooding your diff with bearing-eating chunks of metal. No guarantees it’ll blow up, but I wouldn’t do it for a diff I want to get more than 10k miles out of. Its a game of thousandths of an inch, and it doesn’t take a lot of error to end up with a poorly performing contact pattern. But the small stuff, while you’ve got it apart clean everything as best as you can to get any random chunks of metal out of there. Change every bearing and seal you can while you’re in there, make sure there’s no damage to the bearing surfaces on the axle shafts, give every bearing a healthy bath of oil before it goes in and wipe some on the seals, RTV on the pinion yoke splines to seal them, and use a new lock nut on the pinion and loctite it or it will back off on you. You also probably want a new crush sleeve on your pinion if it’s not going back into the same housing it came out of.

You’re considering welding in square tube or something in place of the rockers? If resale value is a concern I wouldn’t do it. It’s also questionable if you ever need to undergo a safety inspection of any kind. Generally the rule is that sort of repair is required to be “substantially similar to original” and welding in square tube is probably not going to be that. While there’s probably an argument to be made it’ll be stronger than original, no one doing an inspection is qualified to make that assessment. But it’ll obviously depend on the inspector. Other downsides include added weight and something I discovered this winter, if you leave them poking out just below the door like I did, ice, snow, or mud can accumulate and make it difficult to open your door. Its also just a little bit further to step around on the way out.