gogmorgo

We just did a group buy on SMS headliners, you can email Steve if you want, don't know how open he is to custom work or shipping an unfinished board. Price might be a little steep too. But failing that it's likely there's a bunch of us with used headliner boards kicking around in good enough shape to refinish. My old one's still in the truck, don't know when I'll be able to get it swapped. Being in the cold dark part of the year without a good indoor space to work it may be a while before I'm motivated enough for cosmetic enhancements. Plus shipping something that big all the way down from Hoth likely wouldn't be worthwhile if there's closer available to you. Maybe post up in the classifieds looking for a lightly distressed headliner board?

Yeah that’s not enough to be a concern. Diffs tend to shed some steel off the gears because they slide against each other. Good quality, clean gear oil helps but you’ll still get some metal flake. Especially after a fresh install and the gears are breaking in. Doesn’t look like the teeth are wearing excessively, or getting sharp. If it’s not making noise and there’s no chunks, don’t worry about it.

At least it doesn’t have $#!&ty multi-row LED lights on it.

Yeah, the idea behind the city lights is the street lighting provides enough lighting to see where you’re going. A lot of reflector housings have a small low-wattage bulb tucked in the side just to illuminate it so it looks like headlights to other road users, but you’re not shining headlights into windows or dazzling pedestrians or anything like that. I agree on not running fogs on their own. If your low beams are glaring back at you they’re probably aimed a touch high. Unless you’re running ECE lights – that annoying kick up to the right for illuminating road signs is problematic, to say the least.

Forgot to plug in my block heater last night, my MJ cranked a touch slower than normal but fired right up at -28°C. Been a weird winter, this is the coldest morning we’ve had so far. I “fixed” a buddy’s alternator once at the side of the road by adding a 10awg ground wire between the battery and body. Have you noticed if any of your fuses or fusible links might have an issue? I’ve seen fuses fail from vibration or something that causes them to crack, sometimes they connect sometimes not. I feel you though on intermittent issues. Sometimes just poking around will be enough to “correct” a fault, push a loose connection back together or something, and then you don’t really know what happened. Definitely frustrating, makes you want to rip it all out and replace everything.

I would have guessed at it being due to cooling concerns and not wanting to block some of what was already a very small cooling area. But it’s definitely true that the trend was towards going lower and outwards

Yeah. I got my Walker tailpipes through a small but well-established chain. They only had one of each in their warehouse at the time. Initially they ordered the long bed pipe by mistake when I’d wanted one for my short bed, so I hung onto it. That said, Rockauto does show inventory of both Walker tailpipes. The cost of shipping long pipes is a little absurd for me, but someone south of the 49th parallel might have it a little easier, I wouldn’t know. For my ‘91 4.0 I went with the Walker 22502 “quiet flow” muffler and 15773 cat. Picked the muffler mostly because it wa stainless and fairly cheap. It’s got a nice little rumble at idle, and you can definitely hear it in the cab, but it’s not so loud as to feel like I’m upsetting the neighbours. I lost over 12 decibels at highway cruising speed according to the questionable app on my phone compared to the Flowmaster. Now I can hear my Hakkas grinding the pavement down instead just the exhaust droning away. 54488 downpipe, and the 47605 tailpipe for my longbed. Short bed tailpipe would be 46701. It all slid together perfectly three with three 2-1/4” clamps, two 35750 insulators, and one 35719. I think you could get away with using three 35719 insulators, they’re half the price of the 35750, but I didn’t take the chance it wouldn’t work for the $14 it would’ve saved. If your insulators are still in decent shape there’s no real need to replace them however. There’s also another little rubber bit on the crossmember. Rockauto has a couple options, listed as “cushions” in the trans mount section. I didn’t bother replacing mine. I also reused the donut gasket between manifold and downpipe. Just couldn’t make the replacement I got fit. Manifold gasket and hardware should be readily available from your preferred parts supplier. I ended up with Dorman bolts but Felpro also makes the set.

You still have bump stops 😳 My tires are my bump stops right now The actual rubber bump stops have been awol for the whole twelve years I’ve owned the truck. But I did get a set to put on when I put the springs in. Crown 52002393. I don’t have a good recommendation on where to get them, I wasn’t thrilled with where I got them from, and I don’t know if they’d sell to the States anyhow.

With enough time and money you can make anything fit. But you might want to get a spec sheet for the springs before pulling the trigger. Whether from 4wheelparts or ARB (OME) themselves. These are listed for 60 to 62-series Land Cruisers. 30 seconds of googling suggests they’re probably anywhere from 5 to 10” too short eye-to-eye for an MJ but considering I didn’t find anything specific on those specific leaf springs, just FJ60 in general, I can’t make any claims. I’ve never seen any reference to using Toyota springs under an MJ either, but that doesn’t mean much. Talk to a local spring/suspension shop. You can get your springs re-arched, they’ll probably want to add a leaf to the pack as well. They can add additional height while they’re in there if you really want. I just had hopefully 5” put into a set of MJ springs, but haven’t got them installed yet so TBD on actually getting 5”. But it cost me less to doctor the springs than those FJ60 springs you’re looking at. You can of course also add your own leaf from something else, put in lift shackles, or even just new leaf springs will gain you some height. My longbed is sitting almost 4” below factory height on its original springs.

The Cherry Bomb parts are not great. Thin metal, rusts out quick. Not that the Walker pipe I used would last much longer. But I got a stainless cat and muffler. I can dig up the part numbers for everything when I get home in an hour or so. If you look at the hanger/isolator listing on Rockauto for the MJ the Walker ones will show you which rubber isolators you need and where they go. You need two of the ones at the muffler end of the tailpipe, and one for the front, assuming you’re using a pre-bent pipe. An exhaust shop may have other ideas. Otherwise, exhaust manifold bolts are available as a kit. You’ll want a new intake/exhaust gasket if you’re pulling your manifold. Theres a compressed metal donut gasket at the manifold to downpipe connection. The downpipe to cat flange connection takes a flat gasket. If you go with the ‘93 pipe with the slip fit all you need is a 2-1/4” exhaust clamp there. Then there’s an additional 2-1/4” clamp on either end of the muffler.

If you look at parts for a ‘93 XJ they’re a bit cheaper. The catalytic converter in particular. The only difference is the downpipe to cat connection is a slip fit instead of the flange and gasket. Its what I’ve got on my ‘91 longbed. Factory manifold still I think, whatever was on the used engine I swapped in a while back, ‘93 XJ downpipe, cat, and muffler, and a Walker MJ tailpipe. I got the pipe sections through a local parts store a while back, and the muffler and cat off rockauto. Likely would have got the pipe sections off rockauto as well but shipping long things is murder. I also didn’t bother trying to extract my old O2 sensor and just bought another. The other option would be to talk to a local exhaust shop, get a custom pipe bent if you can’t track down something pre-bent. You’ll almost definitely end up with something better quality too.

Per the wiring diagrams I’m looking at in the FSM at XJJeeps.com, they’re tied to the low beam side of the dimmer switch. So they’ll only come on when the low beams are switched on. There’s no power to the fog lamp switch without the low beams also getting power. Headlamps ON and switched to low beam. crappy highlighting of the relevant circuits brought to you by my thumbs and my phone. Given this, it should not be possible to have the fogs switched on at any time the low beams are not also switched on. But considering how common it is to melt the headlight switch and associated wiring it wouldn’t surprise me if something in someone’s truck had been repaired incorrectly. Its also very possible someone didn’t like the way the fogs were wired and “corrected” it so they could be run without the low beams… I see people wanting to do that but in most cases if your low beams are glaring off the fog/snow at you they’re probably aimed wrong. Legally speaking most jurisdictions only require that fog lights can’t be illuminated while the high beams are on, and the switch must be within reach of the driver. I think the idea is because you’re supposed to be using them instead of high beams, and probably switching them off when you meet oncoming traffic, like you would a high beam. But double check local regulations before taking my word for it, some places have the legislation written such that they’re only to be on when the low beams are on. I’ve also never seen anyone talk about switching them off for oncoming traffic anywhere and can confirm no one ever actually does that when I’m driving towards them.

I didn’t try to find something by thread size but I wasn’t able to look one up on Napa Prolink by application or cross the part number.

Do you need the whole plug? One of mine was rounded off when I got it, I just filed the flats down until I could get a socket on it.

If you get the whole header panel everything will fit. The ‘97+ if you want to go that route 🤮will bolt onto the fenders but it’s rounded instead of angular and you’ll probably want to change the fenders out to match as well. And then the flares won’t match front to rear unless you get creative with them. In addition to what others are saying, there was a shift at some point with the headlight bezels where they went from two pieces to one. I think for the ‘87 model year but don’t quote me on that. I don’t remember if they fit on the same header panels or not.

I think I’m up to five this year? Including this one. One in Brandon, MB, two in Winnipeg, and the other two were randomly along the highway somewhere.

Had a very clean green short bed (I think) with hockey stripe decals on it pull onto the road behind me for a short distance this afternoon, BC 19 somewhere near Duncan. Not much opportunity to take photos while driving though.

Almost ten years ago I got a part number off here. Don’t know if I ever wrote it down but if I found it once I can find it again. There we go. The rockauto link even still works. I’ll reiterate what I said in 2016 that I did need to trim a connector pin or two off the outside of the plug for it to fit, and you’ll probably want to figure out what needs trimmed before installing it on the headlight switch. I won’t necessarily stand by my explanation of what happens to the switch/wiring. I didn’t reread it because it’s pretty longwinded but I know I’ve had some misconceptions in the past. My current understanding is that the switch contacts arc and burn slightly every time you make a connection, which leads to a poor connection between switch contacts that gets very hot and conducts heat away to things that should not receive heat. Installing a headlight relay harness will alleviate the risk of recurrence. It also may increase headlight brightness. There is also potential for it to interfere with DRL functions if you have a Canadian spec truck, but that can be addressed very easily if need be.

Looks like a crack in the head to me. Likely means there’s some bad warping even if it isn’t in a critical spot for keeping combustion or coolant in the correct places. Might want to have a machine shop check it out, but you might also need to get another head. Spark, air, fuel. Something’s missing or at the wrong time if it ran before but doesn’t now. I’ve had issues with getting a distributor one tooth off after reinstalling it if you did pull it.

Both of these automatically embeded in the editor after pasting in the url, first is desktop and second is mobile link. Running on the website editor, on safari on iOS. Depending on how you navigated to the video sometimes YouTube will put a bunch of junk on the end of the url after the video… code(? For lack of a better word) that I think confuses the editor maybe. There’s a recent link in the music thread that didn’t embed, and it has a bunch of extra stuff that disappeared when I clicked on it. That said it embeded just fine when I pasted it here just now so… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

If the only hose you pulled off was the upper radiator hose, you shouldn’t have lost too much coolant. Especially if you didn’t pull the thermostat housing off. A hose worth of air in the top of the radiator isn’t going to cause any problems. The upper hose is the inlet to the radiator, and the air isn’t going to flow down the radiator to get stuck somewhere else in the cooling system. If you weren’t worried about anything before you changed the hose there’s probably nothing for you to need to worry about if it’s not overheating and nothing’s hitting the ground.