gogmorgo

You'd need rear steer in something that long to be anywhere near competent offroad.

Yeah, solid front axles shouldn't experience bump steer unless the track bar and drag link aren't parallel and don't move together, which will cause a bunch of other problems as well. I have experienced something akin to bump steer though in my 300,000-mile MJ, when hitting a particularly brutal overpass expansion joint on my morning commute. It cycled the suspension enough to feel the front end shift over and back as the track bar moved through its arc. My ZJ also noticeably does this in the rear as well over railroad tracks with lift pucks on old worn out springs... Kinda the nature of a five-link system.

Splash some gas in her and try again. I don't have any experience with the 2.5 TBI but the later systems will only prime so many times in a set interval if you keep turning the key on and off. Some terminology for you: "Cranking" and "turning over" mean exactly the same thing. It's when the starter engages the flywheel and rotates the engine. "Firing" is when spark ignites the air/fuel mixture. Sometimes "coughing" is used to describe firing without starting, but it's hardly a technical term. One more, "shorting" means current is flowing through a curcuit jin a way not intended, either to another circuit altogether or straight to ground. Symptoms include activating the wrong electrical parts, magic smoke escaping, and blown fuses. How did you establish the pump is shorting somewhere? I'm not trying to be an @$$ here, just trying to help clarify your statements. We're not standing next to the truck, so all we know is what you tell us, and if you say something other than what you intend to convey, it can make that challenging. Sounds to me like your engine is turning over just fine, and will fire with gas sprinkled in the intake. That's a red flag for fuel delivery problems, yes. Your fuel gauge isn't a precision instrument, and now it's 33 years old, and may not function as intended. It may no longer go all the way to empty. In my experience driving around with the gauge showing bear empty is a great way to run out of gas. Where were you measuring to get 8 volts? Were you grounding to the harness or back to the chassis? If measuring to the chassis increases voltage, or there's high resistance between the wiring ground and chassis, you've got a ground fault. In addition to the ground behind the taillight there's also a connector behind the rear driver's wheel which is known to have issues, and so can added-on trailer wiring.

If it's both front wheels, there's a good chance it's the same thing causing the issue on both sides. Likely a master cylinder issue as Dirty suggested, but possibly not. Is there any free travel in the brake pedal, and does it return all the way on its own? It should have a tiny amount of movement before it engages, and it shouldn't lift up much if at all from where it returns to, I don't think.

There are drain plugs in the floor pans already.

What you're looking at doing has been done many times. It's generally called a "Spring Over Axle" (SOA) swap, and there's tons of people who've done it on here wired some good write-ups. You don't do anything to the springs, per se. You remove the axle, and weld new spring perches (brackets for the springs to sit on) to the top of the axle. If you're using an XJ axle, you'll still need to cut the perches off and put new ones on, as the spring spacing is different between XJ and MJ.

Figure out which brakes are sticking. Should be easy enough, they'll be the ones where the wheels are warmer than the others. Drums can stick and drag if the hardware is old and crusty. Worn out wheel bearings can also cause misalignment of the pads and rotor in the front, less so in the rear, that would manifest as dragging brakes. A plugged up brake line could cause dragging, either through some foreign contaminant in the system or internal wear... steel lines that have nasty old fluid sitting in them can rust out from the inside, rubber hoses can have flaps break loose and obstruct return flow. Do you have any modifications to your brake system? Suspension lift, load-sensing prop valve deleted, etc?

I had a job a bunch of years ago where my first two days were spent entirely sharpening mower blades. Custom-built "bush hogs" to pull behind a quad for trail mowing. They took a serious kicking, going through all kinds of crap. Later jobs with similar work, we changed blades every couple seasons, never bothered sharpening. For the lawn mower I have now? Well... At least I check it has oil in it. I'm not too concerned about having a pristine lawn. The previous occupant was a rescue dog handler and where his run was will never have good soil for growing, there's some spots that were gravel and/or garden that filled in with grass and other weeds, picnic table /firepits areas with high traffic that wears it down, grazing by elk despite the six-foot fence, a couple canoes parked along said fence... It's a rental property. As long as it looks like it's being looked after it keeps the neighbours happy. I prefer the natural look as well, I don't really see the appeal of living on an artificial golf course... mowing just mostly keeps it looking tame.

Oh, I think I know which plug that is. I assumed it was a/c related for a fancier system than I had (that doesn't exist), although never really looked into it much. The plan is I won't need to talk to an aw4. The diff swap planned will need a shorter driveshaft, so instead of chopping the shaft I'm planning an ax15 swap to make up for the difference on the other end. (I'm fully expecting to need a custom shaft anyway, FYI, but it seems like a reasonable explanation) I wasn't really planning on getting that particular kit, but it did look to be in pretty good shape compared to others and reasonably complete.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Nice-Clean-OBD1-And-OBD11-Snapon-MT2500-Scanner-w-Accessories-and-Carrying-Case/173872169432?epid=1411827082&hash=item287b96c1d8:g:W1YAAOSwS4tcsgqO So like, this kit? Theres a bunch more stuff than I'd want in there (Ford connectors... ). Is there a separate diagnostic plug for the trans? I don't recall seeing one, but it's been a couple years since I did much with the aw4 MJ (longest trip it's been on in the last year was maybe 75 feet...). I'm assuming the diagnostic connector for the ecu is the extra plug hanging out right next to it?

Does the MT2500 with the VCI cartridge work on HOs? It would be nice to be able to talk to my '91s, and my '93 ZJ, read sensor data, possibly be able to reset emissions timers (not that those bulbs still exist...). Most of what I've found looking for diagnostic tools so far on the odd time I've looked stuff up was infomercials for obd1 scanners that don't really accomplish more than counting flashes.

Wow. That's awesome. And it was waaaay quicker than I expected... In fact I wasn't even convinced it was a possibility. You guys rock! I did enjoy digging for links. I probably didn't need to go back quite so far for it, but it was cool to see stuff from when MJs were only 15-20 years old. It's pretty awesome that all this stuff is still around, and even better that it's functional again. Thank you guys a ton!

And another one: https://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=110 points to https://comancheclub.com/topic/95-won't-start/ I've been doing a bit of messing around. The early mismatches between numbers seem to be out from each other by about 16%, so I found another (dead number 486) and attempted to pull up threads by their numbers based off around 16% under... So I was going to start at 410 and work up to 430 in the new link format. Except then I discovered that the thread title is important to the address. As an example this thread is: https://comancheclub.com/topic/58110-got-a-cc-project-for-everyone/ but if you just put in https://comancheclub.com/topic/58110/ it gets you nowhere. Although it's a different sort of nowhere as the "file not found" dead links. Its late and I've been staring at old threads for too long.

That's a good point... Although an extension of the JLU frame could be integrated into a jk8-style kit. Although they still need to come up with the longer beds somehow. I'd be curious to see what the j6 looks like underneath. (Anyone going to EJS?) The more you look at it the clearer it is that the j6 isn't even close to producible as-is, even in kit form. I guess that should've been obvious though from the fact they needed to chop up three JT beds just to extend it by a foot.

Found another one! This is apparently pointing at thread 78. From way back in 2005. https://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=78 I'm noticing the new link puts it at 67. What's the chance they're both just numbered chronologically but some content has been deleted/lost along the way, leading to lower numbers on newer links? Seems to be a trend... if three results is enough to show a trend. Or possibly the later links are numbered chronologically by last post instead of first when shifted? Or not... That wouldn't necessarily make sense because the thread that I found the last one in is 45, and it predates the 78/67, but the last post is in 2006, by Eagle. I've got to say, it's pretty cool going way back and seeing posts by people who are still active 13 years later. That's a passion there, and a hell of an archive of knowledge. This is the thread I found the link in, BTW:

I once had an XJ towed off my lot without a front axle under it. Its funny. 2wd Jeeps previously were undesirable. But now they all seem to be in better shape than the 4x4s. And it makes sense... Less salt because they aren't out being driven in garbage weather, they're not being taken offroad, etc. People are swapping them all to 4x4 because they're in good shape, and soon there won't be many 2wds left that weren't deliberately left 2wd. No one bothers hanging onto the undesirable 2wd components, the people who have a 2wd are going to start struggling to find them. I just went through this trying to find brake parts for my base MJ at Napa. The two rotors came from different places. Inner and outer bearings came from different places. The grease seals were unobtainium through their normal channels and I ended up having to pay shipping to the store for them. Ditto on base-model ZJ stuff. Trim panels without holes for buttons? Nah. 231 shifter bezel? Nah. No one wanted it, it all got tossed, now it's desireable to a select few people, and almost unobtainable. And that's not even considering the manual transmission stuff.

I don't call anyone back who didn't leave a message. If it was important, they would've done so. I've answered too many calls from people who say "who is this why did you call me" when I never did, or gotten calls returned when I realized I mis-dialed and hung up immediately, but not immediately enough I guess.

I can get a duffel bag of basic tools and recovery gear, floor jack, and a couple socket sets behind the seats in my MJ, and I'm 6'2 with the driver's seat all the way back. But even with the bench in my little MJ I can still get quite a bit of stuff back there. I've been on 6000-mile road trips with another person as well, and interior space was never a problem. It's not spacious, no, but there's still more than enough room. I imagine this cab would be more spacious as well. That said, if it went onto the Gladiator frame, you could get a longer bed and more cab space on it for sure. From a production standpoint, it likely wouldn't make sense to have a third (fourth?) frame in between the JLU and JT so that might be why they don't want to split the difference. I don't know what all the difference is between JLU and JT frames. The heavier rear axle could potentially get stuffed under it with the beefier suspension, if the frame is up to the task.

Here's one that points at itself!! The second link in CWLONGSHOT's sig points at this thread. Erm... I think. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17030 Part of why this is difficult is it's tough to be 100% certain you've got the correct thread. What I did was go waaaay back to the beginning of the tech forum and start hunting for the first posts linking back to previous content. I figured it would be easier to confirm what thread it was pointing at when the selection was limited to only a small number of threads prior... but then my challenge became finding links at all. It's been a time consuming task and I haven't come up with many links so far. In fact only that one and the other one Pete used as an example. I stumble on those dead links every so often, but finding what they point at is tough.

I wouldn't be surprised if it came as a kit similar to the jk8, but I don't really expect it to happen as a production vehicle. Something like 80% of the midsized truck market is crewcabs with 5' beds (because people are dumb) and while the Gladiator is going to sell in decent numbers, I don't know if it's going to hit a level where it'll be worth producing the 15% or whatever of sales these might make up. Although that said Jeep buyers aren't the typical midsized truck buyers, and an off-road pickup doesn't need to be the minivan most trucks have unfortunately become. So you never know. And if it's just a "JL8" then it likely won't come with the payload and towing the JT does. But that doesn't mean that it's not cool and I don't want one. I'll be at the dealer ordering one whenever the standard cab long bed comes out.

Found this in our forklift's operator's manual today. I guess we're not supposed to lift elephants.

You've got the wrong sending unit in there. HO and Renix applications are backwards compared to each other.

Well 498,400km on the first 4.0 in my first MJ before I pulled it puts me in the 300+ club, by just. I also added one for the ~270,000km that are now on the engine that replaced it (240,000 of which were accumulated by the XJ it came out of). I've also got 172,000km on the other MJ's original 2.5 when it came out, but it's death was due to neglect from the previous owner. Sometimes when your crusty old radiator is leaking, the fact it quit leaking on you doesn't have much to do with the stop-leak you were pouring in the top as quickly as the coolant was coming out, and more to do with there only being a finite amount of coolant in the system...

So how exactly is the MJ not good for 100 miles daily? LOL damn that engine bay is clean.

That's a good trade.