gogmorgo

Going to add to the discussion on jacks, I just got a flat on a buddy’s truck, and learned the factory jack wasn’t able to lift the truck high enough to get the spare onto it. And I didn’t learn this until after getting the flat off, so I had to put it back on to reposition the jack to somewhere other than the factory point to get the spare on. Stock height 2018 Colorado on factory wheels and tires. It’s possible the location I picked to change it wasn’t level enough, but that’s definitely an obstacle you’ll run into off-road, and I was just on the side of a provincial highway (albeit a gravel highway). I’ve also encountered factory lug wrenches that don’t work due to replaced lug nuts with a different sized hex. I guess don’t assume your factory tire change equipment will work for you. Especially with lifts or tires. Try out your tools before relying on them. Also of note, hydraulic jacks don’t always like being tipped over from their standard position. Keep that in mind when storing one. But if it does happen unless the oil leaks out you can usually bleed the air out of a hydraulic jack by opening the lowering valve and pumping it a bunch. You can also buy jack oil at most parts stores.

More a liability thing on the part of the shop. There are definite consequences to prolonged UV exposure, and ten years is a nice cutoff to write a policy about. And initial inflation or seating the bead is when a catastrophic tire failure is most likely to happen, and no one wants anyone to get hurt. But if it’s got reasonable tread and no age cracking I wouldn’t be super concerned. Tire age isn’t mentionned in any safety inspection guidebook I’ve encountered. They generally only look at pressure and tread depth, and any damage to the tire. In my current jurisdiction they actually go so far as to list how long or deep the age cracks can be before the inspector is allowed to reject. And while I’m all for workplace safety, I do find it pretty convenient for places in the business of selling tires to have come up with a way to arbitrarily deny mounting random tires from somewhere else that aren’t legally unsafe. And as anecdote to further to my point, I’ve got a barn-find car sitting outside on winter tires from ‘97. Good tread depth and no cracking, and they run true. I’ve put over 3000 miles on them at highway speeds, taken them down fire roads that have eaten truck tires, driven them hard up and down steep twisty mountain roads, and I’ve only ever had to put air in them once in the three years since I first got the thing. Obviously I can’t advise going out and putting 25-year-old rubber on a car because it definitely won’t perform as well as a newer tire, and with used tires you never really know what you’re getting. In my case I just haven’t gotten around to replacing them, despite continually intending to. My point is just that I can’t find anyone else saying you shouldn’t do it who isn’t either in the business of selling new tires or relying on data provided to them by people in the business of selling new tires. My personal expertise and training only extends to pointing at vehicle safety legislation that doesn’t account for tire age, so I can’t really argue with anyone about it. But it’s definitely something that makes a guy wonder.

Should be fused to just over the max current you expect to draw. Assuming stock 60 watt bulbs amps = watts/volts = 60W/12V=5A. Thats per bulb, so 10A should do it for both bulbs. The other more important factor is what the lowest rated component in the system is good for, so that your fuse actually stays the weakest link in the system. Usually this won’t be a factor given your circuit should have been designed for the full load. But generally the big concern there is the wire diameter, or guage. If they’re running 16awg wire, 10A is about the most you can safely run through it so you wouldn’t want to fuse above that. If it’s 14awg you can generally run up to 15A without worrying about the wires becoming the fuse instead.

I can’t get you pictures because mine is 100 miles away, but it attaches to the trans crossmember on one end and runs diagonally over to the frame, underneath the transfer case output. I wanna say it goes to the driver’s side frame, but don’t quote me on that. Edit to add this picture. It’s about the best I could find in a quick search of what I’ve got. This is looking at the lower edge of the driver’s door, from roughly next to the front wheel. Comes off the trans crossmember (where the two long bolts are hanging down, I think I broke the hardware pulling it and just put it back on with whatever was available at the time, never addressed the long bolts) and runs back to the driver’s side frame rail. I think there’s weld nuts in the frame for it but don’t quote me on that either.

But as for mixing a different sized spare with the others, it will get you out of where you are and to where you’ll end up. OE manufacturers do it all the time with compact “donut” spares. Jeep even did it on the MJ if a full-size spare wasn’t spec’ed. But as stated you do want to avoid different sized wheels on a drive axle in the long-term. It’s especially noticeable if you’ve got a limited slip diff, as it’ll tend to steer your vehicle towards the smaller tire under acceleration. Even with an open diff you might damage something inside by excessively spinning the spider gears, which aren’t really designed for constant motion. But on the flip side, uneven braking across the front axle is going to be a more significant problem in an emergency stop. So this is why it’s just a short-term solution. I’m also of a mind that your spare tire should be your best tire. Nothing quite like pulling out your spare only to discover that it didn’t hold air over the winter, or hitting a piece of tire chain someone lost in a snow storm and ending up runnning a racing slick on one corner. Also look into your tire changing equipment before you head out. I just got a flat in the middle of nowhere with a buddy’s truck and discovered his factory jack didn’t actually lift the truck high enough to get the spare on in the factory location. So that was annoying.

I mean I can’t really answer that one for the guy. But considering he’s talking moving the coil off the engine block and asking about a two-pin connector, I was assuming the low voltage side. The other side should just be the same as a spark plug wire, yeah. Probably only way to get them individually as you pointed out is to go to a speed shop. Unless you’ve got a place that’ll sell you bulk spark plug wire and the terminals for it.

I’d also check your local classifieds for some cheap junk wheels and tires that hold air. You might also get lucky at a junkyard. If not a pair, you should be able to find a matching set of three and have a spare to go with the trailer.

Bring your coil into a parts store, see if you can find something that matches, and something to plug into it. Attach the two together. Then remember the skills needed to do that would also allow you to extend the factory wiring. Solder and double-wall heat shrink tube are your friends.

No you broke that one. Broke it real bad. Incorrected it right up.

We’ve got good cutaway shots of the front valve already. Pinching off a line to stop it from dripping out while the system is open may not be entirely kosher, but people do it all the time. I wouldn't be too concerned about that unless you were particularly agressive with it. I’d also say it’s probably fine just to bleed out the rears again. But it’s always better to do the whole system, get rid of any junk in the lines, and get the newest brake fluid possible into it. It also helps to keep the bleeders from seizing. I would only ever bleed part of the system if I wasn’t going to be able to get some of the bleeders open easily. If they’ve never been opened sometimes they’ll fight you. But if you do crack a front bleeder to bleed the bypass, you definitely need to go back and bleed the front again.

828ml in a CLR bottle This actually isn’t true. Initially there were two area codes, one each for northern and southern Alberta. 825 is one of a handful of new area codes that apply to the whole province. I guess because since the mass adoption of cellphones no one’s area code has anything to do with where they actually live.

I picked up a couple Jeep steelies with grey centre caps that were kicking around at work for a while. I don’t remember the story, someone found them in the bushes somewhere, and tossed them in the back of truck and they just rode around there all summer cause they didn’t know what to do with them. We set them aside when we parked the truck for the winter, forgot about them. Couple years later we were doing some yard cleanup and my boss was going to toss them. After peeling the junk rubber off them they went into the back of my truck instead of the scrap metal bin.

If you already have one in hand a local driveshaft shop should be able to lengthen or shorten it as necessary. Unless by too big you mean it’s not going to fit either end even if it was the correct length.

Plastic gets brittle with age even without the UV exposure. But it definitely doesn’t help anything. It also gets incredibly brittle in cold weather. If you’re ever doing anything under the hood on a cold engine at -40 (hope no one else ever needs to experience that) things just shatter on you.

Had one go on me, just had a wobble but it was enough to slap the belt against the timing cover, making an annoying chirp. Somehow the belt was winning the fight, too. Nice little groove cut in the cover.

I think the idea is you’re pushing the water out from under the tire, and if you run them backwards they’ll push water inwards, making for more of a hydroplaning risk. There’s some ratio of water depth vs tread depth where it becomes important. Anything with deep tread is pretty resistant to hydroplaning anyhow though, you’re not wrong about that.

This might have been true with bias plies but it’s really not a concern with radials. I’ve heard it repeated a couple times on the internet but I’ve never heard it from anyone with proper training on the subject. If it was true, you’d destroy your tires every time you hit the brakes. The only rotational bias anyone ever said anything to me about in school was tread direction, for water shedding.

Until this thread I’d been assuming my PO had roasted the clutch off, he had 33’s on it with the stock 3.55 gears, but now you’ve got me wondering. I think he said he had everything clutch replaced about six years before I bought it. Possible he used some of the same parts you got. I wasn’t convince they looked original but I never check for branding.

If the body shop lost your parts, sounds like replacing them is a them problem. You can point them in a direction, but they should be the ones doing the leg work. Not you. For what its worth Rockauto only has the front shafts listed. To interpret the driveshaft length chart for you, swb,_2.5,____ax5-ax4,______2wd,_____d44= 57.5"___.d35= 58.5" Short wheelbase, four-banger, manual, with Dana 44 rear axle 57.5”, with Dana 35, 58.5”. That length is between the centres of u-joint caps. I'm not at home right now but I can crawl under my 2.5/manual/2wd/d35 shortbed and double check, but I’m pretty sure I did that once and found it to be accurate. My memory isn’t 100% reliable but I’m pretty sure I did it once.

For whatever it’s worth, my ZJ’s clutch has always needed the last 1/4” of pedal travel to disengage properly. It got better after bleeding, but it’s still not great and I had to do it again once. I’ve just done it by pulling the slave off and slowly pumping it manually 50 times or so. It doesn’t lose fluid but the level in the reservoir does drop slightly after the bleed so I guess it must be sucking air in somewhere. It’s not a lot and it’s been a couple years between bleeds. I also once had someone push the pedal in while I watched to see or hear any sort of leak, and the slave bulges alarmingly as it goes through its stroke. I’ve been thinking I should order a replacement at some point but it’s never shipped from the same place as anything else I’ve bought off Rockauto so I haven’t bothered. But if those ones are no good then maybe I shouldn’t?

You can still buy supposedly correct hydraulics on Rock Auto. Instead of making do with the wrong master cylinder.

1. Trapping moisture and rust by gobbing RTV (or anything else) on the outside will cause more problems than it solves. 2. RTV won’t hold the glass in if the urethane glue holding the glass is unsticking itself. The glass absolutely will not survive falling out. I’m not sure why we're still discussing gobbing RTV onto it. I’m sure they’ll do a decent job of it once their automotive guy comes back. They shouldn’t need to touch the headliner or anything, either. Most they’ll do is maybe flip your seat(s) forward to get better access to the window, but they may not even do that if they’ve got the tools for it.