gogmorgo

overheating could be a stuck thermostat or a gunked up rad, both possible with sitting. Might also want to check the air filter in case something's built a nest. By running light, do you mean the parking light? If you mean the interior light, they rotate in their bezels to different on/off/door positions. It might be best to start new threads. Some folks may see the "ecu" title and just skip it cause they don't know much about them.

My dad's job has him working in both Saskatchewan and Manitoba, often on the same day. The time's only different half the year, and after doing it often enough, you get used to it.

for 19 I was actually thinking rhinoceros or armadillo. or some other mammal, but I'm not too good with skins so I didn't say anything.

Or maybe cut it off? I'd say that's less likely to compromise the seal than trying to bend it back, so long as you keep vibrations down. Or you could sell it to someone who needs one for their stock MJ and use another one. I remember seeing someone on here using an XJ tank mounted in the bed like that. Unlike the MJ tank, the XJ one is designed to clear the driveshaft, so it's shorter and flatter, with a channel running down the center.

I've been wanting to get mine fixed, but that's not the issue I have. When I got the truck, the spare was sitting in the bed because one of the PO's didn't put it back underneath and so the cable and bar are dangling (not too far) but the winch is rusted solid...

Manual steering is the reason they used to use hula hoops for steering wheels. I remember seeing something about a lady who had her 60's Chevy truck done up real pretty. She wasn't a fan though of the huge wheel that was in it, so she swapped it out for something sparkly and modern. And then had PS put in because she simply couldn't drive it any more.

Is that a 9/16 drill bit or a 3/8? Thought he said the head of the bolt was 9/16.

To be honest, camber can reduce your contact patch, leading to less cornering than stock, as well as prematurely wearing tires. Also, street tires aren't intended for camber, so you really increase the chances of a blowout, unless you want to pay half as much again. And then you wouldn't be getting truck tires. As Eagle said, it's better just to stick to OEM. Plus, everyone will look at your truck and go "there's something wrong with your wheels".

Yesterday I got a little (read very) stuck on top of a snow pile. My habit of parking this winter has involved pushing as far into the snow piles as I can so my back end doesn't stick out three feet past the tiny cars most college kids are driving. Instead of going into it in I climbed over the really dense drifted pile and sat the cab down on it... Tow truck moved himself further than he moved me trying to get me out... But while I was waiting for the tow truck to show, I was talking to a guy with a 3/4 ton who was pulling out a Sunfire, and we walked over to where my truck was, saw the writing on the tailgate, kinda jumped a bit and asked "Is that a Jeep?" and just kinda stood there staring at it in stunned silence for a bit before he just said "cool." Even so stuck I was spinning at idle in 4lo, this guy, with his big shiny jacked up Chevy was just in awe of my decrepit little truck. Made up for having to get a tow. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

I think they gauges can get miscalibrated if they've been knocked around a bit, like the back half isn't lined up with where the needle's pointing. your case seems a little extreme, though...

Just for my own curiosity, would shipping go up beyond the $90 if destination was Canada?

7 looks like a train car, admittedly a very twisted one. 9 looks more like tai chi than an actual martial art. 11 is either a quagga or a zebroid (a zebra hybrid, like a mule is a horse hybrid). 23 looks like an old computer punch-card-ish thing, but the kind that uses light, not a punch. 34 is a 1980 issue Soviet postage stamp commemorating the first space walk. (i'm guessing... I can't make out all the russian, but it says something about "first going out" and "open space"), I think 50 kopecks is a fairly high-value stamp, but I could be wrong. 35 is a set of Olympic gold medalists as printed on a Twinkie box. I'm sure you already knew most of that, but it's all I got.

When I bought it, my 4x4 had a disturbing clunk from the front right corner whenever I hit a bigger bump. P.O said he took it to a couple mechanics who couldn't figure it out. Threw a bungee cord over the battery and no more clunk.

Daylight saving time? What's that?Gotta love Saskatchewan. Back in the 60's they said "Who the hell still needs light at 11pm? What's wrong with y'all? @#$% that noise!" and the time hasn't changed since. :yes:

Not to mention that corn-derived ethanol takes more in fuel to produce than you can get out of it, and takes up valuable farm land that could actually be used for food. If you use sugar cane as your base, you can do a bit better than breaking even on the amount of energy you get out vs the fuel you put in, but that doesn't change how terrible it is as a fuel for engines that don't get rebuilt every few minutes of run-time.

Okay, thanks. CTIS was an option on the H1's so I assumed it came on the HMMWV's. Guess not.

At 18,000ft he'd still only have a couple minutes before hitting the ground. Not quite long enough for even the quik-set stuff. This is one of those situations where the duct tape is the only thing to save the day! Plus, it makes better bandages than JB weld.

$0.02 would be more width for cheaper than a nickel. Good value for your money!

I think if I were putting in a bedside box, I'd put it on the passenger side. That way, one, it's opposite the fuel tank for weight distribution, and two, if you're at the side of the road, it's away from traffic.

My thought is... it's a '92. That said, if it's going to take work to keep it from falling apart, dunno. Lots of MJ's out there with more than 200k and still doing well. My '91 has near as makes no difference 300k, and apart from some cleaning and maybe $100 in parts (most of which don't need replaced, but still should be), oh and the bondo rockers, it's in decent shape. I'd say it's got lots of life left in it. Definitely post pics.

That's what I was thinking of, just didn't know the acronym. Although I thought the whole point of it was so you could air down/up without needing to get out of the vehicle...

The vent windows on my dad's Chevy van don't seem to leak, but they obviously don't seal well as they whistle going down the highway. Jamming something under the latch solves the issue. Never tried coins, only ever used softer things like folded paper or cardboard. I'd also point out that Canadian coins are slightly thicker than their US counterparts. A Canadian nickel may be worth more, but it'll seal better, too. ;)

put tape on the back of the hole if you can get at it before using jb weld. Or on whichever side you want flat, or whichever side the jb weld's going to run out of. Don't know how well it would work on sheet metal, but it worked great on a 1/4" tapped hole in 3/16" cast aluminum. JB Weld bills itself as "steel reinforced epoxy" so in that way it's superior to bondo, but can still be sanded, drilled, even machined, they claim, as well as anything else. I can't speak for that property, but we used it for sealing our modified valve covers and also for bonding carbon fiber tubes to steel rod ends for suspension components on this the Formula SAE racecar we're building. The choice for the suspension components was the result of testing a bunch of different epoxies and bonding agents. For the valve cover, it was because we needed something solid and water/oil tight, and had a $#!& load of it left over.

^that would make a lot of sense, this being an ex-cop car, because of the business they're in. I have to admit I'm having trouble seeing the "rear window". It looks more to me like looking out a side window, with the dark strip above the orange hoodie simply being the hood's liner. It also looks like there's a lot of room behind the seat...