gogmorgo

The stock rad and airbox in my '91 are like that. I can usually wriggle the lid out from under the front clip once I've got the rest off. Same for putting the clip back on.

Remember that friend I introduced ya to? http://www.pungotireandoffroad.com/ http://www.yellowbook.com/profile/production-off-road_1856868183.html http://www.kalbonesracing.com/speedshop/ http://www.ironpigoffroad.com/ http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/American.Powerhouse.Offroad.757-368-3125 http://www.yellowpages.com/norfolk-va/mip/hi-dust-inc-1302559?lid=1302559 Took me all of ten minutes, and most of that was confirming addresses. Do you seriously not know how to Google?

My experience so far has been that very few places stock MJ specific accessories. However most parts made to fit the front end (doors forward) of an XJ will work in an MJ, given that they're identical up at that end. So any XJ bumper, guard, or front end lift will work. You may also get lucky with XJ interior parts. As far as where is concerned, have you met my friend, The Googles? You can also check with local 4x4 shops.

Recent post on the "I hate it when a take the doors off my XJ and the unibody folds in half" facebook page, base price in 1986. That would be for the 2wd 4cyl. Spec it up to the 4x4 Metric Ton Laredo trim, I can see it getting pretty darn close.

Last winter I threw some weight in the bed, but this winter I've been running empty to try to save some fuel, and haven't had much of an issue with traction loss. I usually drive in 2wd, and only really have traction issues when stopping or starting at intersections where all the vehicles starting or stopping slide just a little and polish the ice to a shine. I do throw it into 4x4 in that situation, as it helps prevent the front wheels from locking, which they do ridiculously easily in 2wd, and then more traction for getting moving again, hopefully not contributing to the polish. Spinning wheels doesn't help you get anywhere and just makes it worse for the next guy. Definitely get practice sliding. In all honestly, it should be a requirement for a driver's test to show you know how to handle a vehicle once it's beyond "normal" situations. My driver ed instructor liked pulling e-brakes on us occasionally, until a bunch of parents didn't want their children "learning dangerous behaviour". But it's a pretty well known fact among driver instructors that the teenaged guys who ripped around recklessly in their vehicles have fewer incidents when they're older. Go easy. I won't say "go slow" as some have, because vehicles trundling along at a fraction of the rest of traffic are a bit of a hazard, but definitely take it easy. Keep in mind that you're not going to be able to 100% prevent sliding, but you should be prepared and able to deal with it when it happens. Leave lots of following distance. Start slowing down and stopping earlier (my technique usually is to give about twice as much stopping space as I normally would and do my best to stop in the normal distance and then I've got all that extra space when I inevitably can't stop when I want to. Going around corners can be a little interesting. If you hit the corner too fast, you'll just slide past it. If you get back on the gas before you straighten out, you'll end up sideways. My MJ likes being sideways. Again, practice sliding. Drifting as it's called now, is a heap of fun given enough space, and is definitely a useful skill. Just keep in mind that ice isn't like pavement. It doesn't grab you when you let off the gas or reduce the steering angle. You just keep doing whatever you were doing. I prefer frozen lakes to parking lots for learning, but I doubt it's been cold long enough in your area to have built up the three-foot layer of ice that is the minimum three feet for safe hooning. For those frozen pipes, get a heat gun (or if all else fails a hair dryer) and point it at the pipes as close as you can to where you think they're frozen. Hopefully none of them have burst...

Made my own extra harness following this write-up because I didn't want to wait for the Putco or others to ship. It's a little hard to follow sometimes, as he's doing everything in metric and then converting, but it's not too hard to figure it out. Also, he recommends 10-gauge wire, which is definitely overkill for stock headlights. You'd get away with 14 gauge for the wires, which is what the putco uses (I believe from a couple reviews... have never seen the putco harness). Personally, I went with 10 but this is coming from a position where my stock headlight wiring set itself on fire, so paranoia kinda took control. http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm Also, I drew up a circuit diagram to help me out that I can post if you want it. Just not sure where I put it.

This hints at a bad thermostat. Number one fix for slow to build heat in any vehicle. Symptoms of a bad t-stat could be really long engine warm-up times (or just never getting to temperature) if the thermostat is stuck open, or constant overheating if the t-stat is stuck closed. Sometimes they just get sticky and slow to open or close, which results in wildly swinging temperatures. A new t-stat and gasket are cheap (less than $20 up here where things are typically 50% more expensive than they are in the states) and really easy to install. A few of the members on here will recommend going with a genuine Mopar t-stat. I never have and haven't had an issue with parts-store t-stats, but I could just be lucky. Either way, you'll want a 195°F thermostat. When deleting the heater valve, just pull it out and put the lines together, and plug the vacuum line to it. It doesn't really matter which direction the coolant pumps through the heater core, although some members have stated preference for one or the other.

try this thread.

how to post pictures I use www.imgur.com. It's also free, and I've never had an issue with the site or them changing the way their links are formatted.

http://www.snopes.com/autos/grace/sugar.asp Sugar won't do much. As some have said, it's a bad idea to seek revenge on someone with already questionable morals. This won't be a harmless prank war. He'll get what's coming to him on his own.

It may be just for 4x4 ride height, but you should be able to fit 31's with no cutting and no lift. It's only limited by the front tires rubbing the control arms at full lock. This changes though if you're not running rims with the stock offset.

You and me both... having grown up in a small town, I also have developed the bad habit. I once left the keys in the ignition with the driver's door not just unlocked but standing wide open on campus long enough I ran down the battery far enough I couldn't start it last spring...

Well, finally got around to checking stuff out this morning before school. (Don't have class till 2:30). I wasn't very optimistic about it starting when I realized that I'd forgotten to plug it back in when it didn't start and it being -20ºF out, and having run the battery down a fair bit trying unsuccessfully to start it on Saturday. And after doing absolutely nothing to it, what do you know, it cranked over once, coughed a little, and fired up. :dunno: So since it was now running, and it was cold out, and the engine was cold, I didn't really want to shut it off right away. So I figured I'd check the fuel pressure, being the least invasive to engine operation. Oops. For anyone reading this with similar lack of foresight, don't try to connect a fuel pressure gauge while the engine or fuel pump is running. You'll spray fuel everywhere, right above the exhaust manifold, and more importantly to me this morning, cover your hand with a liquid at -20ºF. Not fun. But anyway, fuel pressure at idle was ~32 psi, revving saw it hop to ~38, and with the regulator vacuum line off, 41psi. So I think that checks out. Pulling the fuel pressure gauge off a running engine also sprays fuel everywhere, btw. :doh: So I drove to school, and once I parked, I tested the cps through the above procedure and had infinite resistance on all of the scales (including the 2000kΩ scale). I'm assuming that's a good sign, but it could still be meaningless. The connector wasn't corroded at all. If it happens again that I can't start, I'll unplug the CPS connector and see what happens.

Not saying your idea isn't a good one, but it would require a fair amount of dedication from specific people who may or may not be able to commit to that dedication. But keep in mind that lots of the simple questions have been asked. There is a search feature (search bar is in the top right of every page). I've found it a little bit unwieldy at times, but a regular Google search with the term site:comancheclub.com included sometimes seems to get better results exclusively from these forums. Also, don't be afraid to post "simple" questions in the tech section. Most of them get answered by probably the same specific people that would end up in a chat room, but on their own time. Yes, it can be frustrating waiting for an answer, especially if it's holding something up, but sometimes you just have to wait. As long as you're respectful and listen, most of the members on here are pretty patient.

Maybe his wife's making him sell and he doesn't want to?

Yeah, I was wondering that as well. Haven't gotten around to putting mine in yet though.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-voiture-collection/laval-rive-nord/1987-jeep-other-commanche-laredo-camionnette/561707766 The ad's en français, so I figured I'd do a little translating. It doesn't really say much though. It's located in Sainte-Julienne, Québec, which is about 40 miles north of Montreal, or 100 miles north of Plattsburg, Vermont. 112,000 km is 70,000 miles. 4.0, auto, 4x4, Metric Tonne, Laredo Original paint Bed protector (assuming liner of some kind, automotive terms are lacking from my french vocabulary) and canopy A1 Conditon, evaluated for insurance and is like new. Considered an antique. Asking price... $9000 Canadian, although the dollars are so close that I'd still call that steep.

Put a new filter on it in May cause it looked old enough to be original. Poured some black mud that had the consistency of ridiculously thick hot chocolate out of the old one. New filter didn't really change the way it ran. Unless it didn't start at all, it's always fired up within two seconds of cranking. Stretch that to five for -20°F with the block heater unplugged. I typically turn it to on and wait the couple seconds for the fuel pump to prime before turning it over.

Your memory's fine. That was back in March/April. Got a code 54 and swapped the dizzy for a cheap '95 from a Rock Auto closeout sale because it was cheaper and less work than a new sync sensor. It was the end of the semester and time and money were more scarce than they typically are. It seemed to be holding up. Haven't seen another code 54 yet at least. I put a new Napa/Echline brand cap/rotor to replace the cheap ones that came with the dizzy at some point in the summer after noticing the terminals on the top of the cap were rusting. I guess that doesn't really speak to the quality of the dizzy and that sync sensor, then, does it... At any rate, yeah, I had some pretty serious cutting out issues and a few no-starts before I swapped the dizzy, and they went away. I've got a fuel pressure gauge and multimeter from the shop for a bit of testing, and I'll pull some wires and check for spark at the plugs tomorrow if the CPS doesn't seem to be the issue. It's been dark for a few hours now and I've got some other stuff to deal with that is slightly higher priority. Fuel pressure gauge is because I've got a friend who had a Honda show very similar symptoms when his fuel pump was dying. It's almost more for his benefit than mine, but you never know till you know. He was around both other times this happened.

I've had it cut out very briefly, really just a cough, under heavy acceleration once or twice, but the last time I remember it doing that was back in October, iirc. I'll definitely check that connector though. I'll grab a multimeter and test the CPS as well. While looking into the CPS testing procedure, I noticed that one of the possible symptoms of a bad CPS is the fuel gauge not displaying properly. As of about a month and a half ago, even if I fill it to right up at the top of the filler neck, the gauge only ever reads 3/4 full, and it wanders around by about a 1/4 tank in either direction but with a general downward trend. Just wondering how the two could possibly be connected? Source: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/no-start-I'm-assuming-its-crank-position-sensor-803967/ quoted section in post#2 Checked the codes on my way out the door after posting this, and none other than 55. About a month ago I did have a 41 (Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system.?). It even threw a Check Engine light, but I cleaned some corrosion off the battery terminals and it hasn't come back.

1991 4.0HO, aw4 4x4. So this morning I hopped into my MJ and it wouldn't fire up. It cranks and sometimes fires, but it just won't catch and go. I'm stuck outside of the city and don't have much more than basic tools with me. I have spark at the coil. Checked it with a screwdriver in the wire from the coil against the valve cover. Plug wires, cap, and rotor are less than a year old and look to be in good shape. I have fuel. Don't have a pressure gauge with me, but I unplugged the quick-connector at the rail and there was fuel pumping out during cranking. It occured to me after I did that that I should have just poked the schrader valve on the rail and that there's now air in the rail. My bad. All fuses under the hood are visibly OK (pulled them all, don't have a multi-meter). My truck was running fine when I parked it last night. This may be an intermittent issue, as similar things have happened twice in the past. One time, I couldn't start it in the evening, came back the next morning and it fired up on the first turn of the key. A couple weeks ago, it did it again in the evening. My low fuel light was on when I parked it, so I just assumed I'd run out. I put about 20 litres of 94 octane into in (an old jerry can of what we run in our FSAE racecars) and then it took a long time to start it. I wore the battery down and had to get a boost from a buddy. But then when I went to fill it after driving directly to the gas station, I only put another 50 litres of fuel into the 90 litre tank. I've definitely run the tank much lower than that on a few occasions and not had an issue. A buddy's coming to pick me up for something, and I can probably grab tools at our shop cause I'll be going there anyhow.

The 91's were the first MJ/XJ models with the single key. One key for doors, ignition, glove box, etc. Gog, I don't understand what you are saying above. Please explain? EDIT: Never mind. I re-read what you said - double-sided keys. Yeah, they're double sided, but as Eagle points out, both sides are identical. The tip of the key is for either the doors or ignition, and the rest of the key is for the other. At least that's what I've understood. A couple buddies had Neon variants back in highschool and could open each others' doors with their keys, but couldn't turn them in the ignition. This is somewhat irrelevant to OP's question, though. Don't know if I should have brought it up...

Yeah, it used to be common for cars to have separate keys for the doors and ignition. My dad has said at one point he had four factory keys for one car, doors, ignition, fuel door, and trunk. At any rate, when they switched to the single key, it's still almost two keys. Typically one half of the key works the doors and the other half works the ignition. If you wanted to upgrade to a single key, I don't imagine it would be too difficult. You'd need to get the door and ignition cylinders from the same vehicle with keys (might get lucky at a junk yard, although they don't always leave the keys anywhere obvious). The door cylinders likely won't be an issue. I don't imagine the ignition cylinder will be either, but if it is, you should be able to just swap the whole column out, which I'm told may even be easier than pulling the lock cylinder.

:rotf: Nice... Just ignore the 'Toba plates on my MJ. My permanent address is 15 miles into your province. ;)

The Emissions Maintenance light is on a timer. Comes on at 80,000 miles regardless of the condition of the emissions system. It's intended as a reminder to get the system checked out, but it won't hurt to check your O2 sensor, though. I'm sure someone who knows can chime in with the procedure for that. Also, your '90 is a Renix, not an OBD1.