gogmorgo

I've got the jack, except it's seized... and as a result about 400 miles away. It does, however, go under the axle tubes, which are the same on the MJ as the XJ. Don't really see them using a different jack between the Cherokee and Comanche when they don't really need to. But I might have a better replacement option for you than an XJ screw jack. As to how it mounts, there's an elastic strap with a couple d-rings that go into hooks in the rear wall of the cab, behind the driver's seat. I've got an ancient little hydraulic bottle jack that I had mounted in that spot until I decided I needed more room behind the seats for storage. Now it lays on the floor under the passenger seat. There's also a spot for the factory jack handle and tire iron, bit of a cloth hold-down strap they slide into IIRC. I replaced the stripped tire iron with a ratcheting breaker bar and 3/4 deep socket. The handle for the bottle jack is long gone, so I just pump it with the breaker bar handle. I pulled all my emergency equipment out from behind the seats, so when I get around to putting it back it wouldn't be too big a deal to snap a pic or two of it in the factory spot. That is, the non-factory jacking stuff I've got in the locations for the factory stuff.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/91-jeep-comanche/565802643?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true No pics. From the ad: 91 jeep comanche. 165k. Garage stored. Spent over $1500 in parts. No room. Needs to go.it is a 2 wheel drive truck. High River is about 300 miles NbW from Great Falls, MT.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/halifax/lifted-jeep-comanche/565917514 Dartmouth is about a 500 mile drive from Bangor, Maine. Whole whack of stuff done to it, check out the ad. Asking $5000 or trades.

So, the big difference between fwd and rwd 3.8's is the location of the starter. It swaps sides. While the fwd and rwd blocks are more or less the same, they may not be drilled to have the starter on the "wrong" side. But the bolt pattern will be the 60°V6 pattern, with maybe a slight and insignificant difference due to the relocated starter.

The fwd versions use it, but to my knowledge the rwd versions don't. When I get a chance to sit down at a computer I'll try to confirm that.

The Scout used an SD33, which is more or less the same engine as the SD22 that Jim's got, but with six cylinders instead of four. The SD33 was also used in the CJ-10 and the CJ-10A.

Mm... bringing up the past. The best way to win any argument. You were referring to the Vancouver 2010 Olympics. That's what the numbers were for. I pulled them from the Wikipedia article, and what do you know, you're right. I did quote them wrong... you guys only got nine Gold medals to our fourteen. Also worth noting, that's the most Gold medals a nation has ever won in a single Winter Olympics. And as of this moment, we're sitting at the top of the leader board for this year's Olympics, with two Gold and then our two silver pulling us ahead of everyone else tied with two Golds. Not that it really means anything when we're only a couple days in. :cheers: Cheers, and good luck to ya! Our athletes don't need the luck :thumbsup: And yes, I know it's all in jest.

This. My heater works great, but my door seals aren't so hot. If the wind's blowing from the wrong direction the side of my left side gets a little chilly. I also once got a cold breeze at the back of my neck, and I suspect it had something to do with the b-pillar cab vent, but I can't be sure.

The 3.4 is a lot less work than the 3800. If you take a 3.4 from a V6 Camaro/Firebird, it's a bolt-in replacement because the engine has the same external dimensions as the 2.8, mounts the same way, and shares all the same accessories. It's also already set up for RWD (i.e. longitudinal mounting). The 3800 is a 90ºV6, not a 60º like the 3.4 and 2.8, so it won't fit the same way. Even a RWD application, which, if I'm not mistaken, doesn't use the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 2.8, won't just bolt in. The FWD variants have the correct bolt pattern, but they're transverse engines, and as a result the throttle body ends up on the back of the engine, making getting an intake hose on it a PITA. As I understand it, you need to cut the cowl to make room. This is even worse with the s/c version, which pushes the throttle body through the firewall with the tranny in the stock location. http://comancheclub.com/topic/24546-38l-supercharged/?p=254940 <-- Check this thread out. JeepCoMJ eventually pulled the plug on his 3800 MJ build after a couple years.

heh... duhrrr :doh:

There are a couple threads to help with posting pics in the "testing 1... 2" forum, at the bottom of the list on the main forum page.

As someone plagued by a bad nss, I can say that what happens when you turn the key is nothing. No clicks, no half-@$$ cranking. Usually shoving it back and forth from neutral to park a bunch works, but sometimes I've just got to short the solenoid.

Sorry, what? I see your pile of consolation prizes and raise you 14 gold medals to your 10. No one up here got blown up, but you're welcome to continue thinking that... Yeah, we'll be cleaning the floor with the other women's hockey teams. That's just a given. I agree I'd rather watch the curling. And yes, it takes skill. Sliding a 40lb rock over 100ft down the ice and then having it stop just where you want it to ain't easy.

I rounded up... I think it was 700 and some, but it was a while ago and I don't quite remember. That would be after dealership labour charges, as well as freight to get it to a dealer in the middle of nowhere. The Canadian Dollar doesn't stretch quite as far as the US dollar. Parts that don't commonly fail aren't really kept around, either, because there are far fewer vehicles on the roads up here (due to only having 10% of your population) so it's not really worth it to bring in parts you may never sell. It's not uncommon for me to ask for a part for any vehicle at any parts store (even a Dealership) and get told I have to wait a couple days before it can get shipped in from a city 800 miles away. It's happened more than once that I got a "Can't get it for you, there aren't any warehouses in the entire country that have one.", or get quoted $300 for something I can get from RockAuto for $80 (including $30 to ship it up here). Hell, I've even been quoted more for junk yard parts than the OEM parts go for brand new down south. Things just cost more up here, and it's not even really because of higher taxes most of the time. It's a supply and demand thing... no demand, so no supply. No supply, so retailers can charge whatever the hell they want and get away with it. Can you tell I'm a little bitter?

What's wrong with things made in China? Beyond the corrupt government, the fact that they own half the known world, and that wages are low unless they're really high, and there's always someone willing to do the job so employers don't need to worry about their employees? The tire quality will still be there. It has to be, or we'll have another Firestone issue. In fact, there are quite a few regulations in place preventing bad tires on the roads. Might want to give this page a read.

From what I've read, the reason '86's are the least desirable is because of the GM 2.8L (Not an issue in your case) and they take more work to swap a 4.0 into. That and there were no short beds. As with any vehicle, as they built more and more, things were done to increase reliability, power, etc, but there's nothing downright wrong about it.

Depends on what you mean by American. There are a bunch of foreign companies that make tires in the US. This site may be useful to you. I did a bit of fact checking, though. The deal with the Indian company for Cooper fell through, so Cooper is still a US company. Everything else seems to check out, though. General Tire is owned by a German conglomerate (Continental Tire). The General Grabber AT/2's may or may not be made in the US, depending on size. My 235/75/15's were made in Mexico. Other sizes are made in the US, Mexico, the Czech Republic, or France. Some sizes are made in multiple countries. Clicky, "country of origin" under the specs is where they're made. BFGoodrich is owned by Michelin, a French company. The Total Terrain T/A KO's are all made in the US with the exception of the smallest size (Some of those are made in Mexico.) Since TireRack.com carries just about every tire imaginable, you should be able to look up where any tire you're looking at was made. Or, you know, read it on the sidewall if you're buying from a brick and mortar store. In terms of tire quality, though, it doesn't really matter where the tire was made. No tire company wants the bad rap that a class-action lawsuit for terrible tires would bring them, so they have pretty strict quality control at every plant. Everyone still avoids Firestone tires, right? Even though the Exploder-specific tires were discontinued a pretty long time ago, and it wasn't even entirely Firestone's fault that the tires failed and the Explorers rolled. Ford specified they should be run at 26 psi as a band-aid because they didn't want to redesign the suspension, which their own tests revealed was flawed before they started selling the vehicles. Also, most of the problem tires were manufactured in Illinois. Bad reputations are bad reputations, and they do stick with you. The only advantage to buying American tires is exactly that... buying American.

Good to hear she got the warranty on it. Quite a while ago, the instrument cluster on my Dad's 04 Impala went out right as he was leaving town to pick up my sister from college, about 1400 miles round trip. He didn't want to deal with it so he waited until he got back to take it in to the dealer, only to find out he was 500 miles over the warranty mileage. If he'd stopped at our local dealer for a quick diagnosis before leaving (they wouldn't have been able to take delivery of the new cluster until a few days after he got back anyway) or stopped at any other dealer on the way out, or gone to a dealer in my sister's city on the day he took between the two legs to "rest up", he would have saved himself $800...

As Rockfrog stated, the hose is there to feed heat into the intake to help with cold starts. When it's cold enough for it to make a noticeable difference with a fuel injected vehicle, it's also cold enough that any heat will be lost by the thin, poorly insulated pipe. My MJ no has silly tube, and I've never had any cold-related issues starting. And unlike Rockfrog's left-coast cool, it's actually cold where I live. I would argue though that it would have a small emissions-related function. It's intended to help reduce the amount of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and help things warm up faster, which in turn leads to better catalytic converter function. But just cause that's what it's intended to do doesn't mean it does it very well...

The Nissan motor you've got it set up to is only going to put out at most 65hp and 110 lb-ft, and that's being generous. I don't think I'd worry too much about it. Possibly of interest to you, in looking up those numbers, I found this: Apparently it's from the SD22 sales brochure. It looks like a very poor attempt at metricificating the numbers... PS, ze German Horsepower, is for all intents and purposes the same as a "regular" horsepower unit (hp is ~0.5% smaller) but seriously, who the hell uses "kilogram-meters" for torque? :doh: Also, I'd take that fuel consumption curve with a grain of salt. You might get the best economy out of the engine near the lower part of the curve, but mpg mostly depends on load. Not to mention it's in units of grams per horsepower-hour.

Favorite beer? But it's not cheap... I don't honestly drink much beer (more of a whiskey guy) but typically I've got either Kokanee, Pilsner, or Rickard's Dark in my fridge. As far as whiskeys go, gotta love a nice smooth rye. Usually I drink Crown Black Label or Dark Horse. White Owl Spiced White is also pretty high on my list. Don't really hunt... My dad is very opposed to me learning how to use a gun, not sure why, so I never did out of respect for him.

Well, it might warm up... eventually. Sounds like a tstat stuck open, for sure. I timed mine this morning. Started it, let it idle for about a minute while I unplugged the block heater and I scraped the frost off the windsheild, then backed out of the driveway. Drove down to the end of the block, by which point the temp gauge had started rising. Two more blocks to get to the highway, sat at the stop sign for ~30s waiting for traffic, then accelerated to 60mph trying not to exceed 2000rpm. It took a total of 4m27s after I started it before the needle hit what would be the 210 mark on a US gauge. It was -15ºF and the block heater's on a timer as per my landlord (she sets it), so it was only on for about two hours.

Couldn't tell you the difference between the two. Someone stated recently on here that the Mopar tstats are presently made my MotoRad, and online pics show they look the same as the Fail-Safe, but I can't confirm the accuracy of that statement. Whether or not the same grade of parts goes to the dealer as to the parts stores is unknown. However it's not uncommon for parts manufacturers to sort parts as "adequate, good, and better", sell the "adequate" ones cheaply under a different brand, and divert the "better" parts to dealers so they can sell them for more. So you'll likely be getting a slightly better product at the dealer. Whether the potential difference is enough to justify the extra cost is up to you. If it's a difference of a long drive out of your way to the dealer vs a short walk to autozone, I know which one I'd choose. But again, it's up to you. You shouldn't need to drill any holes in the Fail-Safe or the Mopar, as it already has some kind of valve in it for the same purpose. I think it's for letting air bubbles out of the engine block, but I wouldn't know. They also say you should orient the holes/valve a certain way, but I didn't bother when I put mine (fail-safe) in back in November. I was on the side of the highway in -20°F windchill with no gloves and coolant everywhere because I'd just blown a hose (figured I'd swap it out while there was no coolant in it), so I just made sure it wasn't completely backwards and called it good. I have no idea which way the valve is pointed, but I haven't had any issues with cooling yet.

A Mopar tstat will only be available from a dealer. However, it may (or may not!) be the same as the MotoRad Fail-Safe tstat, which is a typical parts-store item. Can't speak as to whether or not Autozone will carry them as Autozone doesn't exist in my country.

Given that he says the truck doesn't go up to temp, I don't think the issue is a plugged heater core, but flushing it can't hurt. Any reduction in flow due to a bad water pump or plugged coolant passage would, if anything, lead to the engine running hotter. The way the thermostat works is that it pops closed, blocking most of the coolant circulation until the coolant warms up, then it pops open, allowing all the coolant to flow through. I can watch this happen with my temperature gauge, as it climbs quickly up ~5° when the tstat closes and then slowly goes back down when it opens up again. On really cold days it fluctuates more, as the coolant looses a lot of temperature when the tstat's closed. Your truck came with a heater control valve on it. What it does is prevent coolant from entering the heater core when the heat is off. Many people choose to eliminate it because it can be finicky. But if it's still there and operating properly, when you first turn on the heat it will open and dump a bunch of cold coolant into the engine. I imagine this would be a noticeable temperature drop, but very short-lived because it's a fairly small amount of coolant going into a warm engine. My MJ's valve was already eliminated by a previous owner when I bought it, so the key words in that sentence are "I imagine". When you start driving, the extra air moving though the rad will significantly increase cooling, which will likely make the temperature gauge fall a little. Your thermostat should close before it drops too far, though. Given how far you say it's dropping, I'd say you've got a bad tstat. If you want to test it, you can pull it out. If it's open and cold, it's bad. If it's closed, then you can heat it up in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer to see when it opens. If it's not opening within 5 or ten degrees of 195, it's bad. Avoid a non-stick pot for the sake of the pot and if it's you wife's pot, avoid getting caught for the sake of your health. ;)