gogmorgo

Sorry to hear that, and take care of yourself! My boss had a gall stone attack back in February, but he ignored it and didn't see a doctor right away, not until he collapsed and his wife took him to emergency. Long story short they made their way to his pancreas and plugged it up. He's still in the hospital, been in and out of the ICU and on and off dialysis for the last five months. I sincerely hope you don't have to go through that, but instead have a speedy recovery!

Better rear springs and axle for a start, metric ton ones would be okay ish, but you might choose to go with something else for the width. You'll definitely need better than the D35. There is a member selling his dually setup if you go look in the classifieds. As far as drivetrains go, the factory permits pulling 5000lbs with a 4.0/Aw4, the metric ton pacakage, and a class-III hitch. You might get away with more than that with a proper gooseneck (or fifth wheel... the two aren't the same thing, btw) that distributes the weight more evenly on the chassis, payload for the metric ton is 2000lbs, but you'll definitely notice the struggle going up hills and more importantly the MJ's factory brakes are NOT up to the task. Ultimately the question is why? For the cost of modifying your MJ to do the job, you could pick up a truck of the same age as an MJ but left the factory already capable of doing what you ask.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ I would recommend avoiding the suggestion of photobucket if you can. In my mind it causes more issues than it solves as a free host. I personally prefer Imgur.com as an image host (keep scrolling in that link) and have never had a problem with images disappearing. I've also used Facebook for something quick, but I wouldn't recommend them for anything semi-permanent, cause they keep dicking around with their file storage and url's.

I had one at work from October to May. If i kept my foot out of it (not easy) I was looking at almost 30mpg on the highway, 23ish around town. Then I switched to a better-paying job with the same employer and now share a V6 Colorado... Better than the 4-banger Colorado I guess but not quite the same as the Ram.

What kind of a muffler are you running? Cats can clog because they have a whole bunch of very narrow passages that easily fill up with soot. Most mufflers are just baffled, so you'd be plugging up 2" holes or something like that. Did you check to see if the tailpipe got crushed somewhere after the muffler?

If that's the 3.0 Ecodiesel in the ram 1500, that thing will fly. I like it.

I've got a Dorman brand one. Can't complain either. The one I replaced looked identical (wanna say same part numbers stamped on 'me but it was too long ago to trust my recollection) and was dated 2001 on the back. From other documentation that tells me it was on the truck for 12 years and over 100,000 miles.

Yeah, pick the one you like best and it'll go in. I personally would prefer getting a new windshield over going to all the work of pulling one. I worked in our fleet garage and about 70% of the driving we do is on gravel, so our windshields only have a 30-45,000 mile life expectancy before they're so badly pitted you can't see out if the sun's shining. So we replaced windshields pretty often. We never managed to get the old ones out without breaking them... so I have to wish you good luck!

1984-2001 Cherokee will fit into a 1986-1992 Comanche. Is that a good enough answer? XJ and MJ windshields are the same within years, so to get the original one with the original tint profile, trim bits, etc., you can get one from the same year XJ as your MJ. However over the years the tint profiles and trim changed somewhat. Supposedly the newer ones are better, but there's nothing "wrong" about the older ones. I don't think you can get the chrome trim on the newer windows, but I could be wrong. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a better knowledge of the specific differences between XJ windshields and trim.

Jack the wheel off the ground. Grab it at 12 and 6 o'clock and pull back and forth. If there's play, it's most likely ball joints. If there's play at 9 and 3, it's probably tie rods. If there's play at both, likely a bad wheel bearing. You can also check other steering and suspension components for damage or play.

It's still uploading but here's another clip... step two in messing around with the gopro is going to be figuring out a way to reduce file sizes in post, cause my internet takes forever (this one's been 10 hours and only 60% uploaded so far) to get the higher definition stuff up. It's a great place to live, and a decent (if frustrating) employer. But living in the park itself brings unique challenges to those who enjoy wrenching in the back yard... I'm also not the biggest fan of the "take it or leave it" internet service. Edit: Video should be up now.

It's the bison enclosure at the national park I work at. Ran out of memory on the card just before encountering the rest of the herd. Missed out catching a whole bunch of adorable calves and incredibly nervous mothers. It's one of the few spots of grassland (or even flat land) in the park. I'll have to post some of the drive out there... which is what took up most of the space on the card. 16GB gets eaten up fast.

My weekend just ended. Here's to a summer of Thursday-Monday work weeks... Replaced driver's side ball joints in the MJ - Good thing too! Also messed around with the GoPro I picked up last week for cheap from a coworker.

What if the store's on the way home from work, you didn't check the fridge cause in the morning, and you had unexpected company and didn't have time run home, back to stage store, and back home again? Getting a little too worked up there, pitbull. I like gadgets. Cameras in the fridge are a bit creepy, IMO, but still a nifty party trick. Now if only they could figure out how they used to make fridges without horrendously loud compressors, maybe I might be interested.

Small update. Got the ball joints on the driver's side swapped. I've had a pretty good idea they were bad for quite a while, like, 10,000 miles ago or so. But they'd been feeling real sloppy for the last little while so I figured of swap them before they started the process themselves. So, you know how when you get the castle nuts off, you give the knuckle a bit of a whack and it drops off? Yeah, pretty sure this isn't where it's supposed to come apart: New ones in: I think the upper was swapped out at some point but the lower looked like it could be original. Still can't believe I put over 15,000km on this pos without anything serious happening, especially given it's not usual for me to be doing 70mph on gravel. For some reason there's not as much vibration going down the road anymore... Hopefully doing the other side soon (too hot to do both today) and that'll take care of the rest. This side's joints were definitely worse by far.

Any recent suspension changes? If you've got a lift, toss up some pictures of it. Death wobble is a vibration that gets transmitted from one wheel to the other, and could be triggered by anything. Tire balance is an easy one, which you could even check by rotating the tires, but wouldn't be hugely significant at only 30mph. Poor-quality lifts, or even decent quality components with poor geometry are also common culprits. Worn bushings or other worn or bent/broken suspension or steering components could be triggering it as well. Everyone has a different answer, because there are so many things that could trigger it, and it could even be a combination of things.

Since we're now playing this game, my Lada's 1.7L four-cylinder turns 4500rpm at 60 mph. I regularly shift between 4,000 and 5,500 rpm, but passing on the highway (a rare occurrence) usually requires dropping to 3rd and running right to or beyond the 6,000 rpm redline (fuel cutoff is at 7k). Been driving like that for 10,000 miles and it hasn't exploded yet. I imagine the AMC 2.5L is better built... But my offer to swap D30's still stands, if anyone at all is interested. I have both CAD and Non-CAD w/3.55's.

When I swapped my drivetrain last summer, it took me a bit to get new ujoints for the rear shaft. I drove around (short trips only) with an old t-shirt tied over the output. It wound up ATF soaked, but I didn't end up losing too much.

If you were closer if swap you a 3.55-geared d30 for that 4.10...

Funny, I always considered the MJ to be pretty heavy. My other 4x4 that splits daily duties weighs over 1000lbs less than my MJ.

Are you saying it's not down-shifting if you push the gas down when going uphill? For me cruising is just above 2000 rpm in overdrive, come to a hill and push the gas it downshifts, usually goes to say 3200 rpm, and then if it's a long hill drops down to 2700 or so when the torque converter locks. If I don't get on the gas too hard, it just unlocks the torque converter without downshifting, and revs up to around 2500rpm or so.

Nylocks suck. They're only good for a couple uses and even the first one doesn't always go great. If you can find distorted thread nuts, they clamp down good for things you don't plan on pulling apart very often, although they usually end up screwing up the bolt so they're pretty well single-use only, although I have reused them successfully, just not many times. You can also use the good old double-nut, smash the nuts against each other and they should hold themselves in place.

Been done a thousand times. Don't need to swap the rear axle unless the one in the MJ is done in. And unless something's been swapped into the XJ, it's axle won't be much of an upgrade over the MJ's D35. The MJ's rear driveshaft will need shortened, and you might need to drill some holes for tcase shifter and linkage, but everything from the XJ front end (trans, tcase, axle, driveshaft) should bolt right in. MJ's and XJ's were designed as 4x4's, and the 2wd versions just had the front diff &c "deleted" so all the suspension is the same. The 2wd's did have slightly less ride height from the springs, but everything else will work. Assuming the '94XJ is also an aw4 of course.

Could be confusing I suppose. But upper and lower makes more sense to be referring to the engine, not the photo. Especially since they have them labelled in the photo with the part numbers.

Are they though? The smaller bolts are the top two engine-bellhousing bolts, thus the upper bolts.