CWLONGSHOT

If not now.. it did at one time!! :roll: :D CW

They are not quite as flexible. Personally, I would steer clear of these as well... See, they are not nearly as durable and shatter from repeated impacts. If you go thru many lo structures, you will "rub" thru to the fiberglass and the center wire will be come exposed. Then they are trash as they will no longer be 102". The other nice thing with all the 102"s, there is no need to set SWR. It is what it is!! It's usually ALL GOOD. Like I said before, be conscious of your ground and mount with a adequate ground plane and this antenna will provide you with your best reception. CW

Man that SUX!!!!! Sure am sorry your having problems man... Many people have used these with no problems..... Personally, I prefer the RE ones. I would DEFF get on the horn with these people and speak your mind. Get the faulty one replaced or return for a full refund and grab the RE ones instead. Good luck, CW

Excellent point BMP4X4. MANY club and club run events do not allow 102" steel whips, for safety reasons. Even tied down ones. Yea, they can rally get moving and our sport is becoming more and more a spectator sport. With people, kids and don't forget your spotter in close proximity to our moving vehicles. They can take an eye out right quick!!! BUT, IMHO, they offer the best reception out on the road. When mounted in a spring or "beehive" mount work pretty well with lo garages and drive-thrus. Be sure of your grounds and proper antenna mounting. Oh, get the SWR checked. The lower the better. Two schools of thought on that... Set it at the center channel and live with it where its not so good. Or set it to perfect at your primary channel. Neither is wrong, I prefer the former. CW

I'll guess 10-12 round town and 15-16 on the hi-way. Its 230-240miles a tank-full, that's with 6"/4:56 & 33's and a correct speedo gear. That's the reason for the lil' Mazda 323... its getting just into the 30's in town!!!! :cheers: :D Back when the MJ was 3:55 & 30's, she got in the upper 20's in town when I drove like an ol'lady going to church. :roll: CW

Yesterday, average for CT was $4.29 87 octane. I have to ad that, I don't know where they get those numbers cause everywhere I see it is $4.59 - 4.69 a gallon for 87 octane. I know we will see $5.00gl before the summer is out. :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: CW

Be sure to post up some pics!!! CW

GREAT story!! KUDO's to you for being a great uncle and taking "kids" fishing!! BTW, what you doing next Sat AM? :roll: :D I'll even bring the Beer and bait... huh, what do you say? CW

I GOT IT!!! Jeep slide hammer to the rescue! Three blows and out she popped! :roll: :cheers: PS when pretty easy too. But I found the ball joint on that side is about shot. These ball joints are CAKE to change!!! Two 3/4" nuts and bolts, then one 3/8" cross pin and a couple whacks with a hammer and its apart. But its a job for another day. I'm on to more important things... KILLAINS!! :cheers: Thanks for the help, CW

I believe this is the same.. Its the trans axle itself that's in the way.. or so it looked last night!! If I still can't get it, I'll post up pics. I am heading out there now.. CW

Sorry Pete.. Wasn't certain where it belonged. :oops: Hopefully it will look different and all of a sudden be WAY EASY in the AM... :roll: :roll: Here is a bit of humor... I had to replace the exhaust. Well round here the kids love to instal those "fart" pipes. You know those big glass packed exhaust tipss. Well I fationed up my own!!! Its just a coffee can, I welded on the tip for haha's. :D CW

Sorry guys I know this is a Jeep forum.. But we are all buds right? Well your bud over here in CT is in a bit of a jamb... I have to swap out the CV shafts on my little gas miser and I can't seem to get the DS shaft out.... I have three sources of instructions and all say the same thing. But I cannot see how it is feasible. They say to carefully insert and chisel between the CV housing and the trans axle and tap and gently pry to pop the clip and remove the shaft. Well that's fine for the PS, Its wide open. But the DS sits in a "C" shaped cup about 8" deep. It is open at the top rear, but there is zero access there for hands let alone room for a two with a hammer and chisel!!! I have everything else apart ready to pull the shaft and am stalled... Heading back out in the AM. Any one been there and done that??? Help readily accepted!! CW

It works fine for me... :D You'll can see how it came out. CW

I have painted a couple sets!! Pics in my build thread. Last ones where the 10 spokes and the ones before that where the XJ Limited rims. Some people call them "lace" rims. I used wheel/rim paint I got from the local Pep Boys store. I'm sure others have it. But the key with all paint jobs is PREP PREP PREP!!! I choice the have mine sand blasted. But not with sand as its quite abrasive for the alloy rims. Glass beads or other less abrasive media will work best. After that just follow the directions on the can. Multiple LIGHT coats give a great result followed by a couple coats of sealer/clear coat. Here is what they started out like: Image Not Found Here they are aft sand blasting: Image Not Found Here is the paint: Image Not Found Here they are in the process of painting: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found They came out GREAT!!! CW

I do, but shipping may be prohibitive... Where are you? I am in Connecticut. CW

Your touching on it when you mention the addition of a traction device. Vehicles do tend to get some exaggerated fishtails when both rear wheels start spinning in a turn. The theory is with the sway-bar, you keep both rear wheels planted. So no one gets the weight transfer over the other to start the spinning. This is of coarse with the LS as the Locker doesn't have the biasing where it can slip a bit before power is really applied. Of coarse overzealous throttle or very slippery roads will negate this 10 times out of 9. ;) . CW

Not all of them do. Some have a bolt that goes threw the bump-stop up into the snubber. BINGO!! Its gonna depend on year and other things. But they will either have a bolt welded to them. Just grab a stilson wrench and remove. no need to even touch the rubber at all. Or a bolt threw them. This one required the removal of the rubber snubber, then appropriate sized socket and ratchet for removal. lithium grease will help with reinstallation. Good luck, CW

If they are the "soft 8's " I have had two sets and they are fine. Have you checked locally for some used ones? Maybe you can find them even cheaper!! CW

Well, I'll try but I am no suspension expert.... You are correct in your comment, that once you compress one side of an axle, to the bump stops, you can go little further. But lets think here for a moment... What is this... The other side is connected... Meaning one side is absolutely, positively and permanently connected together. So if you think on how a sway-bar functions, So with one side stuffed, there is quite significant force on the opposite side in the same direction, UP. Its trying to pull up the opposite tire, while the vehicles weight is transferring and that same tire is being pushed down. The sway-bar is doing what its supposed to do, keep both wheels on the same plane so that the vehicle will corner more flatly. So in doing that it is INHIBITING droop/flex/articulation. Think for a moment what makes a solid axle better off road than a independent setup. When you stuff a tire, the opposite tire is equality pushed into Tera fir-ma giving/finding traction. A sway bar will inhibit the amount of opposing force. One other glaring point.. If it didn't do anything it wouldn't be there, now would it. How many miles on that sway bar? I venture its not as strong as it once was, especially with all that testing you have done. Speaking of that testing, How many different vehicles where involved? What where the mileage of these vehicles? Do you have actual results you can post up? Back to Eagle's comment about the sway-bar itself. Most rear sway bars are small and to be truly useful should be larger. Jeep knew the Jeep name would include off-road use. So they chose a rear sway-bar that wouldn't significantly restrict that use. While at the same time offer better handling on road. I again say that if it works for you and you cannot see any difference, great. More power to you, but don't try to pee on my foot and tell me its only raining. I am not "calling you out" here. Just pointing out that what happens to one rig running up one RTI ramp doesn't constitute how the rest of the jeeps out there will function. I have done the same "tests" as you on my TJ with the rear sway bar. I choose to leave it on. I do in-fact get better flex with it off, but feel my body roll on off-camber situations warrants the little lose of flex but running one, so I do. CW

Dude, I get your gist, but that post was just incorrect. Like Eagle said, most vehicles that have one could use with a larger one. Any sway bar, properly attached factory, will hinder articulation. If you like this better, they will articulate more with out the sway-bar attached. If you like yours and don't feel it hurts you, great. but your only fooling yourself to say it makes no difference. Having one is a personal choice. I would DEFINEATELY have one if I have a street only vehicle. The advantages and increased handling and drive-ability are outstanding. CW

I have used them for years, they are GREAT!!! I have a 10# for the MJ and a 20# for the TJ. I get about a dozen tire refills, + some impact-gun use from one 10# tank. Plenty enough for a weekends wheeling. Even if your buds need a refill to. Always REMOVE your regulator before moving. I prefer the Aluminium tanks for the weight savings. I pay about 15 and 25 for my tanks to get filled. Many places around here will also swap-out filled tanks for your empty ones. This is nice because tanks are tested and stamped with a date. once date is reached, tank must be recertified BEFORE it can be re-filled. (My apologies if this was covered in the very informative albeit long winded thread by Motion. ;) ) I built my own and bought commercial "holders". Pete's idea with the UNI Strut is a very good one and has many many uses. I have a couple friends that do the same and it is very handy and cheaper than my "holders". CW

Most stores carry the same brands. There are mixed opinions on whether re-man parts are better or not. Personally, I have not had issue with them and they are usually much cheaper. Take the suggestion of the guy in the parts store. He knows what others consistently buy and what works for them. CW

Mine is also from a Ford Ranger. But its a SPLASH version, much narrower than a reg Lil truck bed. So I cut and added tubing to make it the width I wanted. Then I cut and adjusted the back bars to sit where I wanted as well. I think it came out pretty well. If I where to do it again, I would look for a Dakota bar, maybe even buy it new for a Dakota. CW

Here is a couple more... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Here is a couple old ones... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

BTW, All my clips are with the same HI-Flo cat as well as muffler described. CW