CWLONGSHOT

Did that about ten years ago.... (Stopped buying from them I ean. :D ) CW

I have run all three of the "lunchbox" lockers in front and rear axles. the Aussie is by far the best I have used. I am lucky enough to have met and spoken with the owner of Aussie on a couple occasions. Bill is actually in a club I used to belong to. Very similar designs, but the Aussie is an improvement on the others, a definite a step above. You will very much like yours once you get it!! CW

Just pushed her to 1450!!! CW

She is doing and looking well!! :brows: :roll: I vote a couple times a day!! Hope she wins!!! CW

Install a flush fitting. HELP area has them. It goes in line of the heater lines and you attach a hose. Now that I think about it... I wonder if that funky valve we have will stop this from working... Some one will post up. In any event, You could remove that add a bypass hose and still use the flush with the hose as I said. Remember, if the thermo stat is in it will stop flow if engine is not warmed up. CW

Yea, I am on my third as well.... First one was a combo fault issue. Paid $350-360 for the shaft, 11,000 miles later I paid another $380 for the repairs. :eek: When that second shaft needed repair in my opinion it was entirely their responsibility. In the end still had to pay almost $100 for the repair. It was the centering ball ceased, I am meticulous about maintenance and re-grease every grease fitting (Even those funky ones in the centering ball)after every trip off road. I proved it to them as my grease is purple blue and theirs is motor oil color. it was PLAIN to see it was reg serviced. This is on my off road only TJ. Got about 5000 miles on that shaft... then I got shafted again. :D My next one will be from Carolina for SURE!! CW

Take it easy and accelerate slowly and you should be fine. I have done it too. You get AWEFULL torque steer if its lifted, but its OK. Think grandma/grandpa Sunday going to church driving. ;) :roll: :eek: :D CW

Yup, I remember. I am sure you can do it too!! Nice project too!!! in any case, check out that chart on Toms site. It will help you get the proper length shaft no matter how you go about it!! :cheers: :cheers: CW

1989 you say? That's a Renix system and it severely limits your choices... Only one I know of for the intake is RUSTYS. You can make your own choice about his stuff, some hate some love. like most things I guess. I choose to go elsewhere or make it my self. As for the bumper... I cannot think of any off hand. I think they used to be avalible. Maybe something used can be found? Beside that, if your handy and have a welder you could likely easily modify one to work!! Or make your own!! many guys here had made some REALLY nice bumpers. Check out the build threads. CW

I have them too!! I noticed smoother idle, slightly faster start-up, increased mileage and more/smoother power. The only drawback and its minor I am getting a slight rumble when I let off the gas. Like before you down shift and compression braking is working. Didn't do it before the swap. It doesn't hurt anything and is easily ignore with a slight turn of the volume know. :D Good easy mod!! CW

IIRC, Tom woods offers a table/graph to compute DS length. Maybe try there/ his site? Don't buy there, at least not until you look at Carolina Drive-shafts. I don't mean to dis Toms, He is good and all but getting expensive. Last shaft I got was almost $400. I have been hearing a lot of good things from Carolina Drive shafts. Two good friends just had them make up front and rear shafts for 2/3 of toms price. A week later, one of the guy's pretzels one and Carolina replaced it NO CHARGE. He even admitted it was his fault and expected to have to pay!!! CW

You need to "chip" the bit out. You say its 1/8" in diameter, or 1/8" deep? In either event, get a small punch and hammer and you should be able to crack the tip of the bit out of the hole. Blow it out with air. As long as you can get to it!! There was a time when I was mounting a lot of scope bases on military rifles. There receivers where WAY, WAY hard and breaking bits and taps was quite common. These where #6 and # 8 screws! Pretty small stuff. I got pretty good at chipping them out as I just suggested. Wear eye protection and work at it you will get it!! CW

Your on to part of it Mini. :cheers: But you need to remember what you suck in has to get back out. If you are going to increase the volume of air going in you need to have a way to equality get it out the other side. What I am saying is the entire intake and exhaust needs to be considered to achieve best results. From the top down, Larger TB, increased plenum (Spacer), more aggressive Cam shaft to allow longer opening and closing of the valves to accept the extra air/fuel mixture, Then a larger, free flowing exhaust manifold/Header, catalytic converter and free flowing exhaust. You can get certainly away with some of those things and get smaller increases, but you should take from both ends of the engine. IE, go with the spacer, but also do a better muffler. Then maybe get the bigger TB and compliment it with FF cat and exhaust header. THEN, dive into the motor and swap in the cam and lifters. Some of these are tough with the older renix systems. Exhausts on many vehicles work wonderfully alone because most are quite restrictive form the factory. On the other hand, most factory fuel injection sys/TB's are not as bad. Once a better air box is in place. :roll: :D Hence the popularity of open element air filters. Just protect it or stay out of mud and deep water. If your thinking, "just add a snorkel." You just likely made it even more restrictive than the fact air box ever was!!! Its all a give and take kinda thing. :cheers: CW

Nothing special required to weld to tubes on a D35. Center sections is where special pre/post heat tech are required, as well as hi nickel rods but this is not required on the tubes. I have done perches/shock mounts many times with a 230V MIG @ work as well as my Lincoln buzz box @ home. I will only trust my Lil 115V MiG for tack welds to hold position as Jeep-co also mentions. CW

Tires/rims/alignment. CW

Dude, First off take a step back and breathe. I am going to try to be civil and explain things a bit, but this drama is not liked or welcomed around here. Like Blatz already posted, many of us here speak from first hand knowledge and experience, self included. I don't bash anyone with out first giving full and ample opportunity for that company to make things right. On two separate occasions Rusty's failed to get the order initial order correct, failed to make that order right and after many, many calls & emails, I just gave up. There service is extremely poor. the plainly lied to me twice about items having been shipped, because when i finally received them the dates of shipment where AFTER I was told they had been shipped! Flatly I and many others are better off not patronizing them. Now, so you know that I am no hypocrite. I do have and use and enjoy there 4" rear spring pack. I flatly like it and it works well. Many of the problems I have had with them is with there poor quality, poor fit (Holes don't lignup) and overall finish. Sub quality components and materials. Furthermore, I offer people mention about what they make and don't make, because if they don't make an item. the worst you have to deal with is the poor customer service. The parts at least stand a chance of being OK if made from other manufactures. Again as pointed out, I do not find any posts from motion and I don't remember reading any where he "bashed" anyone. I only know him from reading his posts here, but he doesn't seem the type to bash anyone. You on the other hand seem to be hunting for someone to unload on. Motion is not your huckleberry. He is a friend to this forum. Would you walk into a bar and start jumping on some guy having a drink with his buddies? Well you just picked on one of mine and I am becoming annoyed with that. Your last couple posts here and in other threads on here, come off very harsh. Your posts seem to tell more than offer suggestions. I am cutting you slack again because your new. Please have the courtesy others here have extended to you. Your coming close to troll like posts and you know no one like trolls... CW

Motions post about says it all... Thanks for the post LNF!! CW

The MJ frame is different than the XJ in ways that it is already in effect "stiffened". I have no doubt a competent and astute person could make improvements. but for the vast majority its fine as it is. Make some improvements to the steering box area and call it good. Your efforts will be more fruitful in other areas. CW

Ex, Your new so I'll cut you some slack. Once you get a chance to look up and read all the great and extensive information we have here you will realize who's who and what's what. Hopefully you'll grow to garner the respect Eagle has achieved here. He has been here a while and helped out just about all of us at one time or another. He knows his stuff and is willing to help and share it. I know these people exist, lord knows I do my best to oust them and stop the miss information form flowing. but know this, Eagle is not an arm chair commando. SO, grab a beer and start reading and you will quickly learn the pecking order here. We are nice group of guys. For the most part, we get along pretty good also know that some of us have teeth. But its no pirate, we don't want it that way!! In no time you will realize dining on your own foot isn't so great. CW

Holy cow!!! 4-5 degree negative cannot be your actual setting. I don't thing you could get the DS attached!!! I wanna say 6 positive is factory spec. Currently I am at about 7-8 degress positive. CW

I'll bet it was BL Lime too CW. ROLF ROLF :cheers: NOT, absolutely not. Your old enough to know better... SHAME, SHAME. I'll say it 'till I'm blue in the face....Never, I mean NEVER should a man drink a beer with FRUIT in it, unless he is one!!! It was a 12 pack of Killians. Its on ice being guarded as we speak... Want one, help yourself. CW

Ground it yourself!!! Make a ground and securely attach it to the body. CW

Awe man.. Thats cheatin'!! :D GOOD JOB!!! CW

X2 on checking toe. I had basically the same issue with mine, and finally got the tape measure out. I was toed in an extra inch :oops: Reset it to 1/2" and not a wiggle since.... Jeff Two things where also affected, your alignment as Jeff just said as well as CASTOR!! With solid axles the more you lift the more positive Castor the axle wants. Notice how the rear portion of your front tires are now closer to the bottom rear edge of your wheel well. That shows the Castor you have LOST with the lift. Check everything Motion pointed out and be DOUBLY sure of your tire balance. Sounds like this didn't change and I am assuming that the DW didn't occur before the lift. So its most likely been brought on by something you changed. CW

There must be something in the air... I just did my neighbors "O"Rings & new plugs last night!!! When all was done, I had earned myself pizza for the wife and I and even scored a pack of my fav cold beverage... :cheers: :cheers: BEER!! One tip.. remember to CLEAN the area where the injectors are FIRST!!! Have a small prick maybe even an angled one. Its handy for the little clips that hold on the elect plug and retainer at the fuel rail. Good luck, CW