CWLONGSHOT

Beater, Sorry to hear of the back issues!! They are MAJOR PITA!!! Take it easy and hopefully you will come out better than new. I don't know your age, but many on here are young. You DEFINEATELY heal faster. Your body not working as it did only a short time ago SUX!! Blhtaz, Man I know how you feel!!! I too have two compressed discs in my neck, (1988)another in my lower back. (1994) Mid thorastic I had a crack in Vertebrae L4 and pulled the ribs from the spine @ L4 & L5 left side. (2004) Up until that accident, I still thought I could do anything. Makes lying on my back under the Jeep a near impossibility... I still do it. :roll: (and suffer!!) I went fishing in the ocean yesterday. It was rough with 4' swells, I got pounded and went to my knees twice with the pain. but I was still there and had a great time. I KNOW if I had done this @ 20 or so I would be WAY better off than having done it at 40 something!!! I ain't complaining mind you, but I do find my self rolling my eyes at work when some "kid" complains about being sore. ;) I have learned to live with pain, it lets you know your alive. Hope you get better quick!! CW

The term is affectionately known as an "AD". Which is short for "Accidental Discharge" and they happen ALL the time. We must not forget they are accidents, BUT as reson46 already showed us, if you follow the golden rule of gun handling. A GUN IS ALWAYS LOADED, and know and apply the fundamentals of gun safety, 1. Never point a gun at anything you are not willing to destroy. 2. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot. 3. Know your target and whats behind it. It will remain a MISTAKE and not become a statistical tragedy. CW

Not likely.. look like the screw size to me... Stainless is the way to go for those small screws for sure!! CW

Any one found anything or herd anything on how the press conference went? CW

If the man did that he is even a bigger poopshoot than Eagle describes. If you guys don't know it, I am also a firearms instructor. I have been one for almost twenty years. I have trained at levels up to my state police and most local municipality, not to mention civilians. A HUGE NO-NO is to CREATE such a situation. CW

Now once you get it out, clean the surfaces both inner and outer with a wire wheel. Use anti seeze for reassembly and the next time it will come apart as nice as can be!! If you ever need to swap out a axle shaft on the trail, in the mud, on a side hill, you will remember my suggesting this. :eek: :D ANTI SEEZE IS YOUR FRIEND!! CW

Good Luck!! CW

Personally I would just head to the JY and grab a new fan.. CW

It had a SOA and DB"s as a 2WD!!! Nice clean truck!! CW

I ordered things a couple YEARS back... I'm still waiting. I got all the promises and assurances you could imagine. Lip service is what they sell... CW

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps- ... d_730.html I would be very suprised if that fan (running correctly) drew 10 amps. 12 GA is perfectly fine for the short run required to wire it thru a relay. If the motor is shot, who knows what its drawing, could be almost anything. CW

180 is ok, but do not go any lower. The 4.0 LIKES IT HOT, its us that think its a problem... ;) CW

It SHOULD click!! The relay is nothing but a secondary switch. But its a more heavy duty switch. Usually 4 wires, 1&2 Power in, Power out. (Both larger wires) 3 Ground 4 switched wire going to 12v power source. (NOT much draw light wire is all that's needed) So, what happens is your in the cab and want the accessory on. You throw your switch, it sends power the the relay switch. The relay switches and allows bigger power the flow threw firing what ever you have the wire connected to.... All the big power is at and threw the solenoid switch. Hope I haven't confused you more... CW

Trust me, 12 GA wires will handle WAY more than that fan will draw.. IF its a good fan and you haven't crossed any wires. Go back a double check all that you have done. its easy to get something crossed. If nothing is found, its likely a bad motor in the fan. CW

YUP!! It does press in but is not terribly tight. Some care and a dead-blow hammer and you will be fine. Get your self a piece of wood or like substance that covers the entire bearing and carefully tap it in/out. CW

You CAN do it with out a case spreader. I only mentioned it so people know such a thing exists. A dead blow hammer and extra care will get it back in. Project88mj, Dude sounds like you need to catch up on your reading!! There are write ups all over here and the web about swapping gears. Please read up, acquire a basic "working" knowledge and post up questions here. One piece of advice, Hold off on the gears purchase until you get your gears out. Spend the small amount extra and buy SPICER gears. All factory gears are stamped with a code for shims. Look at the numbers on your set and order the same in the gear ratios you want. That way you will at lease be in the ball park when you begin the set up. I have been VERY lucky and have actually had two sets fall SPOT ON using the same number and position of the shims as factory. BUT I was sure to order the same gear set, offset. CW

Yes this can be a problem form time to time. Even for the experienced guys... Try this: get a socket, just the scoket, of the correct size to fit one of the ring gear bolts. Hold it on one of the bolts as you reach around to the front of the pumpkin and spin the yoke. turn it untill the socked gets wedged up against the cap bolt/threaded surface. I prefer to do this with the caps still on and only loosened as it can pop right out and isnt the lightest thing to catch with one hand. Now you wil need something to give you leverage on the yoke. Say, a long screwdriver. Slowly turn to yoke and the carrier will pop right out.. it HAS TO. Prying with two large screwdrivers has never worked for me either, thats why dealers have a CASE SPREADER..... Good luck, CW

Getting the old ones out is the generally problem. BEFORE installing new ones, thouroughly clean the bores looking for burs or irregularitys in both the bore and the new joint. CW

They are 5.25 for the front. But I am sure you can make the 4X6's fit. Not sure why tho... The 5.25 is a more efficent speaker. Maybe you could return/swap for the 5.25's? Hopefully the PO didnt chop everything up to get the 4X6's in the doors!! CW

I just threw here another Vote!! CW

Howdy neighbor!! Where did you go JY searching? CW

How? Both are 2.62" tubes and both have 1.18" diameter shafts inside those tubes. Well, since you asked so nicely, I'll tell you. ;) I don't mean different axle tube diameters between the "C" and non "C". I mean different diameters along one tubes length. Is another way to ID the "C" from the NON "C". More specifically, the "C" is straight tube from pumpkin to backing plate. No flairs or increases or decreases in diameter. The outer bearing is in the housing. Image Not Found While the NON "C" housing flairs up at the backing plates. As the bearings are slightly different between the two. The outer bearing is pressed onto the shaft and retained by 4 bolts at the backing plate. Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Pretty nice haul, and you don't even need to paint it!!! CW

I understand money can be tight. But remember, when them cheapies go bad you will have to spend MORE money on the ones you should have bought in the first place. THEN the hassle of doing the hole job over again... Just trying to help you benefit form YEARS of experience doing things twice... :eek: :roll: CW

The tubes are different diameters and the non "C" Clip will lack the flange to hold the axles in. So, no, they are different and not interchangeable. CW