CWLONGSHOT

Call Randys Ring and Pinion!! They will set you straight!! CW

Nothing says home defense like a Remington 870 with 00 shot. Yes, you may not kill the intruder. But you certainly will make them rethink their decision to enter YOUR house. don't worry...you hit em he won't be around to lie..... But stay away from buck shot unless your very rural...that stuff will shoot right thru walls of your house!!! Large bird shot is a better choice for the close ranges found inside most houses. Whowey, RIGHT ON brother!! 870 all the way! My tactical 870: CW

OR.. Just buy your self some good quality 4X6 speakers and put them i factory position!!! My Infinity KAPPAS sound GREAT!!! :brows: CW

The full auto Glock is fun to shoot....as long as someone else is paying for the ammo!!! :roll: :roll: ;) CW

Well, Today was the day for wrenching!! We got a bunch done. On the MJ, Installed the 5150s on the MJ along with the JKS upper and lower shock conversions. I swapped in the correct 10MM bolts in the upper CA's. On pops XJ. We finally got those motor mounts in. One was SERIOUSLY TOASTED!!! Then a buddie stopped in and we fixed his exhaust leak on his YJ. Loose manifold bolts!! Sold an 29 spl 8.25 axle and my "old" 5100's to a friend in my local club. On to the important stuff...MJ MODS!!! ;) First I had to assemble the shock conversions. Uppers where pretty easy. Just press the upper mount into the JKS piece with a vice and tighten bolt. Lower BPE's also need a vice or "C" Clamp. Install one side into the shock: Compress the bushing with the next piece and insert bolt: The overall difference in length between the two is minimal: Now remove old and install new shock into truck. The new upper mount of the JKS conversion stud is mighty large!! The difference is just what I wanted!! Better Firmer feel with the benefit of extra length!! CW

When I put the 44 in the rear of my MJ. I found that the axle shafts where a bit worn at the seal and I couldn't ge them to stop leaking. One factory shaft was more than 2/3 the cost of a brandy new set or Yukon or Superior alloy shafts. (Like Dirty already said) I couldn't get the Yukons but found a set of Superiors. Price it out, I think you'll end up with the alloys too!! CW Image Not Found

Could very well be. One thing is for sure...you have some crossed/shorted wires there!! Start with the suggestions. Clean the batt connections and eliminate that as any lind of problem. Keep them CLEAN & TITE!! CW

4.0L are known to have noisy valve trains... Mine MJ gets a little tick at idle when it gets warm. It also gets worse the older the oil is. The first week or so after an oil change you hear nothing. Then it gets progressively worse until its changed again. Just rolled to 80,000mi. I have probably had a dozen of them. Some are better and others worse, but all in all, this is pretty much the way life is with the 4.0. CW

BINGO!! CW

GOOD JOB!! See...Faith can move mountains!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: CW

I'm rootin' for ya!! CW

That Dakota line will be fine for your application. CW

Thank you, thank you very much!! Yours aint to shabby either!! CW

make a jig, crank em out at an alarming rate... They cost $30 bucks. Yea someone could make em easy enough...but for $30 bucks, I'd rather buy these than screw arround making them. I'LL BE INSTALLING THIS WEEK/WEEK END SO STAY TUNED!! :brows: :cheers: ;) CW

Sorry if my response came off strong. I don't mean any disrespect. I just wanted to clearly and decisively state that is is not a safe practice. I did so because I don't want anyone to get hurt, that's all. I know what you mean, but as it won't last long with out the shaft, Ththe shaft is required. So I look at it as a apples to oranges comparison. CW

I have discovered that my front shocks are valved a bit light for my springs/weight in the MJ. Figured I was stuck until I spoke with a Buddie in my club who hates the way his XJ rides as the shocks and springs are WAY stiff!! We struck a deal and we both end up with the appropriate shocks for each of our applications!!! I decided on the 255/70 valving and I also stepped up the the 5150's. The are also 1" longer which is a good thing as I need a bit longer shock. Old Bilsteins where 25.50 max. These are 25.90" max. Not allot until you know that the 5150's are EYE/EYE con fig and require either the conversion to stem OR JKS upper stud kit. I opted for the JKS. This adds 1.10" additional. Don't for get the BPE's at the bottom. That's good for an additional .75". Add it all up.....you get about 27.75" . Now if you remember a couple posts back I sent back 29.5" shocks as they were too long and 27 was the magic number. I couldn't get to it with the 5100's and hadn't looked at the 5150's back then. Here is some PIX: Here is the box end with PN for the JKS stud to eye conversion if you need it: Here is the model # of the new shocks: CW

Well, went out again last night. Caught the end of the same tide. Got there a bit early...had some trouble with Bluefish biting off the bait and rigs. But this time I managed to be the only guy to catch them!! I boated two strippers but threw one back. It was small and came early so I figured we would get more anyhow The second stripper was a good fish about 40lbs. Image Not Found This tide has about run its coarse...not to good till next month.... Time to look for another spot until then. bri

Yes the unit bearing WITH the axle does support the load. Not by itself. PLEASE NO ONE TRY THIS!! Your tire WILL absolutely come off!!! The stub shaft IS REQUIRED with unit bearings. Unit bearings are built to have the added support of the stub shaft and the nut compressing everything together. It would work for rolling it around in the shop or parking lot, but thats about all!! Some years back a company tried this and people where hurt BADLY. They where sued and abruptly closed!!! When I remember the name I'll post it.

Its in the tube and it should be called the pass side axle seal. Or possible CAD axle seal. Go here: http://www.crownautomotive.net/catalog/ ... XJ30F.html Looks like its called an intermediate seal. CW

I have checked into Alcans for a 3.5" lift spring, they wanted something like $260 per side!! i went with rusty's. I know...Thats why I went RUSTYS!! I think I paid $270 for BOTH!!! But you get what you pay for..ALCANS are top shelf!!

Missed the pass side part... (Sorry for the confusion) In a disco axle, the CAD fills from the diff. IE splash or gravty. In a disco axle, the pass side seal is outbound of the CAD. IIRC. You must have damaged that when you removed/installed the axle. If you remove the CAD you should be able to see the seal on the outboard side. CW

Alcan is a TOP quality spring maker, but quite a bit pricier than the Rustys springs. If you can swing it, the ALCANS are better. CW

Gonna answer my own second question here as I called JKS and got it straight from them. YES the YJ piece/PN is the same for the XJ/MJ. As for the first question.....upon disassembly, and speaking with Juan. there is a set of bearings under the spindle that the shaft rides on. Going to this setup in effect makes the front axle a full floater so no real weight is one the axleshafts them selves. So riding on the hub for outter support is correct. Now I am trying to find out if the late model ford Ranger/Bronco II hubs are the same as my warn pieces. they sure look it!! Anyone?? Dirty, Pong??? CW

I cannot believe I am going to recomend a RUSTYS product....but my rear leafs are a 4" pack and ride/flex and feel great. But they are 4" and for the first couple thousand miles where closer to 5" of lift. But the price cannot be beat and after all RUSTYS don't make them!! CW

The seals are on either side of the carrier bearings inside the pumpkin. Thats why I said I hope this is not what you did... Its not the end of the world... I mean the gears will NOT need to be reset up or anything but its not a ten minute job either. Kind of a pain in the arse!! CW