CWLONGSHOT

Just a little education on D30 axles: The lo pinion is a slightly weaker axle. Weaker mostly for two reasons. 1) The LO-pinion utalizes a "crush sleeve" for the pinion setup. Its weaker and suseptable to damage from rocks. 2) The LO-Pinion also runs off the "weak" side of the ring gear. Where the HI-Pinion runs on the stronger side. The HI-Pinion offers, more yoke and DS clearance and less DS angle. This is good for rigs with mucho lift. Trouble with alot of lift. the D30 isn't great with really big tires that come with large lifts. I would say moderate hard core duty, with a driver that picks his lines and follows the "Slow as you can, Fast as you have to" rule. You can run 35's. The fact that the TJ/ZJ and late XJ's pinions are lower is of little consiquence. I mean look at 2001 + cherokee's, ALL TJ's, ALL ZJ's. They where ALL lo pinion. People lift them and don't have problems. Swapping to a one piece shaft is problematic as there is a seal thats needed and NOT ALL axles have provision for this seal. Just swapping to one piece shafts is NOT a option. Whats your reasoning for wanting this? CW

don't do it with your good tires on the rims, it is very potentially corrosive to rubbers and is not worth the risk to do it. Rubber is inert. Nothing will happen to it, sans removal of any tire dressing. :brows: This stuff comes in a plastic bottle. Its not THAT corrosive. Your hands will tingle if it gets on them, just be careful arround your eyes and pets. CW

Assuming your speaking about the front D30 ...This is correct. The rear of a TJ is a coils and would require much more work to get it to work with the comanche's leaf spring suspention. CW

Mitch, Just before I wrote that I was on the jeepz site and saw the thread where you bought them. Sorry for the mix up!! TWISTYS looks AWESOME as well with dem pizza cutters!!! Dirty, I am worried about that...this was what I had on hand for stock....maybe I'll PU some thicker stock and do them over..... Warf, They worked OK. I have since gone back to lead stick on weights in the center of the rim. Here is a link... http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm Wild man, Thanks for the compliments!! No I didn't put anything on them. Becare full using this as it is a ACID!! It WILL eat the clear coat, so be aware. I also have a set of ten spokes. I WAS going to use them. But at the last minute decided on the phone dials. Less common, I like that. CW

I got some new trail tires mounted up today. After seeing Mitch's new 34" Swampers and how GREAT it looks. My love affair with tall skinny tires on MJ's has been renewed. I helped my Brother in law get these late last year. he is not ready for them with his MJ and in talking to him. I have descovered, he isnt as big a fan of the pizza cutter look as I am. SO, we are gonna swap!! My 10.5's for his 9.5's. He is also getting a set of AR alum mags as well. I decided to mount them on the second generation "Phone Dial" jeep rims. (First gen had the little nubs) I really like the look!! I cleaned up the rims with coil cleaner. Its made for AC condensers and works GREAT on heavily soiled alum rims!! BEFORE: AFTER: This is with VERY LITTLE elbow grease. basically spray on, wait and rince. I went back with a soft brush and second rince, followed by a towel dry. A couple have some spalding but over all thay came out GREAT!!! Here is the front, then back followed by a broad side view. Here is a shot from the front. These are just my TRAIL tires. I am still gonna be running the ATs a DD but I have another, different set of rims for them as well!! :brows: CW

On the rear axle, you just beat it out and "pull" the new one in with the nut upside down. They just press in to the axle shaft flange. Lube it up first!! CW

Oh boy...you have really perked my interest with this one...... I have been wanting a Jeep trail for some time.... I also happen to have a XJ sitting in the back ready to get chopped!!! :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

The pass side is just a dummy for astetic purposes. CB is mounted here: CW

Those look to me to be MACO brand CRAP sold on EBAY...STAY AWAY!!!!! Buy someones used NAME brand or save your coin and get the JKS stuff!!! CW

Your question is unclear...first you say you found a ring and pinion.....then you ask about a carrier... I THINK I understand. The carrier should work fine front or rear. Because as far as a D44 carrier is concerned, it doesn't know or care, what D44 axle it runs in. ;) As for it being the correct carrier for 5:13's. Cannot say for sure as I do not know if this is the same carrier the 4:10's came off of......see what I mean? IF you can confirm that this carrier originally ran with the 4:10's than YES it will work with the 5:13's as well. Like Dirty said RUBYs ran a "thick" gear set. This was to allow the use of a single carrier for all ratios the Wrangler was available in. It was a STD carrier for up to 3:55 (Or was that 3:73) gears . CW

I cannot comment on the Rustys......but I had a set of the bushwackers on my TJ some time back. FIRST TRIP into the trail, I pulled three bolts thru the fronts, cracked the pass side front. Badly gouged/scrapped the rears. Although I feel they are hands down the best looking ones out there, they are not for a trail rig. I sold mine on the TJ and installed some ruby flairs. they do not cover as much, but fold up and pop right back into shape!!! CW

Kick @$$ gift!!! Congratulations!!! Way back when when I graduated I got a 10 speed bike and 50$ from grandma/grandpa!!! :roll: CW

Tru-tracks are an EXCELLENT choice!!! My wifes WJ has LS diffs at both ends and its great in snow/wet on the street here in New England. If you have the coin to spend a selectable out back is a strong option. but if this is a street truck. The Tru-Tracks will do you just fine. But like all LS are defeated if you put a tire in the air or sit it on ice....all the power will go to that wheel. With a selectable in the rear and a LS in the front if you come across that situation just lock the rear and go. Its all gonna depend on what you want to spend and what your gonna do with it. I agree with Dirty these tru-tracks are the best LS out there. NO special lubes required, NO clutches to wear out. Expensive for a LS but well worth it IMHO. I also came very close to this exact set up. I eventually decided on a ECTED out back and a aussie in the front later on if required. (I have one on a shelf) CW

I agree...Why not call Clatons and get the answer form the man that builds them??? CW

While I am unsure if they are the same or not. (I never had both in my hand at the same time to compair) Here is a pic of the one I put in my MJ a couple months back... CW

NOT true. if you remove a battery terminal it kills the circuit and the engine will die. on a carbeurated motor you could probably get by with pulling the terminals but on a fuel injected system, all sensors will die and it will no longer run. I beg to differ, fiatslug87 is correct. This is a age old method of testing an alternator and will for certain tell you if the alt in any MJ is working or not. My alt went in my MJ a couple months back and this worked on my 1989. Batt was fine...bearings in alt shot!! Just about a month ago our WJ LIMITED died in a parking lot. I jumped it and it ran fine. I pulled the batt cable to test it and it stayed running. The factroy batt was shot, easy fix. If it wasn't going to work on any vehicle...it wouldn't have worked on that... There is every gismo jeep ever thought of putting on a jeep on this thing!!! To answer one of your questions... A alt puts out different amounts of current based on RPM and system requirements. (Volt regulator) If you know you need extra "juice", like givign someone a jump. Just kick the idle up. CW

Never hurts to check!! Sounds like you got it! CW

This is correct, but you look close. Maybe just a 1/4" more or so. There is a raised ridge where you stop. If not, yours may be a different MFG. I used MOOG parts, just seat it until its centered in the bore. If you look back at my pics of the removed bushings you can kinda get an idea. They DO NOT seat all the way flush. CW

Yes you can. Its just like Drity explained.. Ge here and talk to these guys your self..the are GREAT PEOPLE!!! http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/mer ... ry_Code=S6 CW

Most people who cannot shoot a pistol very well have this opinion. :roll: Its kinda like the GREAT line at the end of Quigly down under, after he killed the bad guy..."I said I never have much use for a hand gun, never said I didn't know how to use it." I have shot many a critters with my pistols. Ranging from ground squirrels to deer and even a black bear. CW

I have done them a number of ways. One really stuburn set needed to be beat with a chisle!!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Mostly, you just spray with a good penetrating oil and press them out with a ball joint press and some correctly sized adaptors. Image Not Found One set allowed me to hammer them out. RE-INSTALLING is simple...clean the bores they go in, grease bushing and tap to start then press in with "C" clamp or ball joint press. Once alligned they go right in. Press them in until the sholder is firmly up against the side of the bore. Image Not Found CW

If your buying bulk (Milk carton pkg stuff) at Kmart/Wallmart you will find this problem with most ALL brands!!! STAY AWAY!!!! Some time back, I had a friend completely fill a barrel with lead, shooting that crap!!! It took some "inventive" measures to get the lead out of his barrel. I won't say how I did it... but ol' timers know the trick the stuff is no longer avalible. The stuff is named after the first planet on our solar system..... :eek: ;) Luckly I have a small supply to keep my compensator's clean. SO...How did she shoot???? CW

One summer I watched a couple snappers totally eliminate a entire clutch of malard ducklings... that pulled them under one by one. One of the buggers even tried to pull down the hen!! I looked out the door, there was feathers all over the pond and that hen franticly trying to take off...only the snapper had her by the foot. She finally pulled free, but lost here foot in the process. We saw her for the remainder of that summer. She was easy to spot landing with just one foot hanging down. She must have died that winter as we never saw here after that. The snapping turtle is a nasty, stinking vile creature..... CW

Yes it shoots very well to say the least. You know its impossible to "buy" a good score, its still the person behind the gun that determins that outcome. Good luck today, I know you will have a good time. ;) BTW, I had one of those Walther P22's for a short time. I bought it for my wife as my hands a much too big for its tiny grip. I bought it with both barrels and got rid of it in very short order. It was miserably inaccurate. About 5-6" at 25 was the very best it would do. I carry one of two guns. A J frame smith 638 in 38spl. or a Colt Commander .45acp. I use two mostly for seasonal reasons and consealment. Here is CT you must be completely consealed. The 45 is large and usually reserved for winter carry. The J-frame will easily slip into a front pocket or ankle rig. CW

I am going to suggest the pics as well. Sounds like you have ALOT of unanswered questions. They say a picture is worth a thousand words... Like Eagle said, there is no bolt in 9" for an XJ. Although a great axle, not to mention it is not the most common axle swap. Sounds like you may be going on someone elses assesment of what you have. This information may or may not be correct. BTW a ford 9" doesn't have a removable diff cover. It has a center section that bolts in from the front. Here is a pic of a 9" "cover": Image Not Found Image Not Found Also sounds alot like a lincoln locker, AKA someone welded the spyder gears. If you must swap it out, I would suggest a 8.25 from another XJ. I suggest this for initial cost, stregnth and easy avalibility. But remember if its 4WD (I assume it is) you must match the gear ratio with the front. This is a 8.25 CRYCO diff cover: Image Not Found With pics we can all look and give you the best, most accurate assessment of what you have and what you have for options. So, respectfully.... :needpics: ;) CW