CWLONGSHOT

They are the RE brand DB's. They supply you with most new bolts you will need, you do need to drill out the factory upper CA holes. The only factory bolts I used where for the LCA's. I had some new UCA's for the axle side. All remaining where supplied with the "kit". Agreed! Dirty, This kit comes with both stovers & nylock bolts for all bolts. I think whats happening is some "seating" of the facyory UCA cups. This is where I found the most tightening needed. There is nylon spacers that go in where the factory CA would have been. I think they are compressing a bit. I really socked them down and the noises are all but gone. CW

About 3.19 here in CT...Diesel is right at 3. CW

I use a place called ABBCO welding Supply. Costs me about 15 for a 10# and 20 for the 20# tank. That lill tank will just about fill four tires and its empty!! It uses paint ball type tanks!! Nice Idea, but not for filling tires. I have the one in my TJ mounted behind the seats centered. In the MJ I have it right next to the base of the roll bar. I have the same brackets as you. CW

OK, here is what I did for my front shocks. I used 1x3/32 square stock and some 5/16x2" bolts and made spacers for the bottom on my shocks. I wanted to use these: But the threads where wrong. My extentions are std thread and the Bilsteins Metric. So I needed to move the bottom up. First I cut the stock into four pieces 1 1/2" long. Then I maked center and drilled them all with 5/16" holes. Then painted. Here they are, all bolted in place. Again with what I have for room 27 1/2" would be about perfect. The Bilsteins I have are 25.6" extended. But as they sit, I have about 3" of droop and 7" of compression. Totaling just over 10" of travel. Now with this addition the spacers, the shocks sit at just over 4" inside the shock at ride height. Or 60/40 compression/droop instead of 70/30. OLD: NEW: CW

OK, here is what I did for my front shocks. I used 1x3/32 square stock and some 5/16x2" bolts and made spacers for the bottom on my shocks. I wanted to use these: But the threads where wrong. My extentions are std thread and the Bilsteins Metric. So I needed to move the bottom up. First I cut the stock into four pieces 1 1/2" long. Then I maked center and drilled them all with 5/16" holes. Then painted. Here they are, all bolted in place. Again with what I have for room 27 1/2" would be about perfect. The Bilsteins I have are 25.6" extended. But as they sit, I have about 3" of droop and 7" of compression. Totaling just over 10" of travel. Now with this addition the spacers, the shocks sit at just over 4" inside the shock at ride height. Or 60/40 compression/droop instead of 70/30. OLD: NEW: CW

While Eagle is correct about the suspention cycling in an arch, its not nearly enough to worry about. Most near stock rear suspentions don't move that much with leaf springs. As a matter of fact, look at factory XJ lower rear mounts... they are mounted in this orientation. :roll: Yours a nice and beefy. The only problem I saw you took care of, the contact with the shock body. You ground away material to make room. Here is what I use for lower mounts: I just made up a set for Mitch. The axle moves one side up or down much more often and at a greator degree than the arch of movement front to back. Another example is the front shocks. They to have this same orentation. my front moves almost 12" so the arch of movement is mucg greator than the rear and they're no ill effects. CW

I am sure you could do it. There are some fancy bends and specfic angles thats are required. For the trouble and what these cost, I would just buy them. Remember on the MJ you don't need the angled braces like the XJ's do. So, this takes 1/3 of the cost right off the top!! CW

Its all good!! I am glad I (we) could be of assistiance!! No opologies, the only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask!! Something else I like... You don't know until you know. ;) :D :cheers: CW

Based on what I read in the guys ad and what this axle is, I'll bet you a case of your favorite beer this was origionally in a WJ GC. BTW, just the center "chunk" is an aluminimum alloy not the axle tubes. ;) CW

WELL... a man requesting pictures... I think I may have some here some where.... Humm where did I put them... OH here they are!! :D :brows: ;) CW

I don't know about every thousand or so...but your absolutely correct about 1-200 miles. I'll recheck them at every oil/oil filter swap. I only mention this because of how loose the two where... I am gonna say 6-8 complete revolutions to make them tight. :eek: CW

Any of you guys have any problems with the bolts loosening up? I may be just jumping the gun here, but tonight I got under the MJ to check all CA and bracket bolts. I found a number of them loose, a couple really loose. Both of those where bolts that hold the bracketry in factory holes. (One upper and opposite side lower frame side) As a matter of fact, only the bolts in factory holes, the onces with the nylon spacers, where the ones that where loose. I am suspecting those nylon spacers that keep the brackets from compressing to be the issue. I was very careful with orig install to get all hardware tight so I am fairly confident I didn't miss anything on the instal. Past couple days I have noticed some rattles, which prompted my looking tonight. This is the first since the install, so it may be nothing. Just figured I would ask... CW

Thats not a CtyCo 8.25 and its not the D44 you really want either...... Its from a Jeep ZJ/WJ w/V8 as Eagle mentioned, 3:73 is a common ratio for them. Its non propratiory D44. VERY limited selection of traction devices as well asgearing, becides having a weak housing. Someone has removed coil brackets and installed the leaf perches so it fits a XJ. If you where asking my advice, I would say keep looking you don't want this axle. Here is the one under my Wifes WJ, You can see the shape in the last pic. (I have fixed the leaks since this pic was taken) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I suppose that would depend on brand. But for the most part I would say no, they should be about the same. CW

Personally, as cool as they appear to be, I would stay FAR from a rover. just too expensive to get parts for and have worked on. I was at a simular point just 6 mo ago. I needed a more relyable DD than my Mj. Now my MJ haden't given me any problems, or let me down. But it is 19 yrs old. My ideal choice ws a late model XJ or ZJ. Not really wanting all the electronic gizmos, I began looking for a 1999 XJ. 1999 was the last year for distributers. The 4.0's current C.O.P. ignition has had some problems with cracking heads. I found a couple very nice deals... but the more I looked the more I wanted to just keep driving the MJ. So I deceided instead of dumping $10,000+ for a new rig, dump less than HALF that in my MJ and call it good. Thats what I did and I am loving it!! Some little things that really made it nice...5100 Bilstein shocks and four Infinity KAPPA speakers. New sway bar bushings and disconnects. Completely rebuilt from axle's. I switched from the MT's to a new set of BFG AT's. Its the little things like that that really make for a great "seat of the pants" ride improvement. I think I spent about $4500.00. Yea I have made for a expensive MJ with WAY more invested than its actually worth...but its what I like and what I want. I didn't build it for anyone else but me and my wife's enjoyment. Even if you had to borrow to do this you would have a much smaller payment as you wouldn't need as much money. Just a thought. CW

I don't know about best.. But my ideal choice would be a 1992, 4.0, ax15, d44, SWB, with a clean body. CW

Chief, That would be mine. BEFORE I "adjusted" the shocks, right after the D44 install. (notice the purdy paint job :brows: ) The bump stops are mounted to contact the axle just before the shocks topped out. I had moved the bottom mounts up and that made the shocks too long even with my amount of lift. Here is how I fixed the problem: Here it is now: CW

I run syn in all of mine everywhere. The two places I don't is in the AW4 and my ECTED equipted diffs....voids Auburns warenty somehow?? Anyway, I love the stuff. I change oil every 5000mi, same as Eagle, but I also change out filter and top off inbetween @ 2500mi. CW

Correct, you kind of squeeze it together with the seat itself. Sitting in the seat, using your right hand reach down with your thumb on top of seating surface and fingers on plastic paddle. Squeeze and seat will/should if not still frozen, rock. CW

Looks fermilular... Image Not Found Image Not Found Here is a shot of the 1986 one ton rear Dirty is talking about!! Its a AMC 20 in a MJ. Yup, I agree. The one in your pic is a D44.... ;) CW

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... l+computer

Glad it worked for you!!! Its nice when something usually difficult hard can be made easy!!! CW

John, Sorry I missed this. I wired mine thru that thurmostatic switch in the rad just like factory. Than I ran a power wire and switch wire, everything thru a relay. Mine will come on as required OR when I throw the switch. I don't have the skematic infront of me and cannot remember for sure...but I think the the rad thurmo switch is not grounded. So I ran my switched wire thru it and back to power. When its too hot (Or reaches what the factory wanted the fan to come on) it allows the connection to be made, turning it on. Then I ran another wire, from the same switched pole, into the cab and thru a switch and back to 12V. That way I am able to turn it on as I want OR auto as required. At least I THINK thats how I did it. its all dependent on what or how that factroy thurmostatic switch worked. CW

Basically... They are 245-70-16's. You know, factory rubicon size. Thats what they are from. Mounted on 16X8 Cragar soft 8's. BTW, did ya get my note with the tracking number? CW