CWLONGSHOT

This is a double edged problem. Its also the reason most people find that a 10.5 tire is best suited for a XJ/MJ. Once you get enough BS to clear the inside of the tire/rim. You begin to get contact on the out side front in turns. Now throw in suspention/articulation and the problem magnifys itself. Be ready to start trimming. Sure, others have done it, so it can be done. But in my opinion, its more trouble than its worth. The 10.5's look right on these vehicles. CW

I have that same skull in BOTH my Jeeps!!! Lights the entire cab with a erie blue glow at night!!! I like it!!! CW

Good idea but EXPENSIVE!!! BTW, they cost OVER a hundred and a half a rim... :eek: :eek: Here is a google search on 'em. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sa=X ... ks&spell=1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://store.4wheelingplus.com/proddeta ... d=SBLN1579 Home » Staun Products » Staun Internal Bead Locks 15X7 - 15X9 Staun Internal Bead Lock 15X7 - 15X9 Staun Internal Bead Lock. NEW and Improved. The Staun Internal Bead Lock holds both tire beads on the rim unlike conventional external bead locks that only hold one bead on the rim. The Staun Internal Bead Lock provides distribution completely over and around the wheel rim inside the tire, presenting no problems with wheel balance; and since it is inside the tire... it is unaffected by weather or damage by rocky terrain. The Staun Internal Bead Lock can easily be fitted to most one piece rims and tubeless tires. Five year warranty on bead lock cap and one year on the tube. Price below is for one wheel. You need 4 to make a complete set. Make sure to adjust your quantity accordingly in the shopping cart before checkout.. Email Friend List Price: $177.91 Price: $163.09 Out of Stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CW

It does and a sticker over a sticker.... But thats what is on my MJ and TJ. Wanna picture? Dunno, it works thou!! CW

I agree with Dirty, Save your money on them platnum plugs!!! YOU don't WANT/NEED THEM!!! Champions are the way to go for these older engines!!! As for the cap aabout any better brand will do you fine. Personally, I prefer the NAPA line. Its got brass contacts and has worked well for me for many many years. Wires, again any name brand will suffice. CW

I got mine from CROWN Automotive Sales Corp. INC. PN: 935685 I replaced all on the MJ and the front on the TJ. CW

Here ya go Pete!! Its a C.R.Lawerance Automotive product. $500, It is still my daily driver. I have made some changes recently to better enjoy it for the street. Infinity speakers in all four corners. A new Muffler, nice and mellow. I switched the BFG MT's for AT's of the same size. This sliding window :brows: . Then the RE Drop brackets, and lastly a paint job!! It will still be very capable off road, ESP if utilizing the winch. But will be comfortable and safe to drive every day!! Ryno, the synthetic line is a boon for winching. Its biggest down fall is its susceptibility to UV light. But thats easily remedied with the wet suit material cover I have. Its stronger than wire rope, lighter and safer as well. The price has also come way down!! I got mine for $150!!! CW

Thanks guys!! I'll press them out and replace with some new bolts!! CW

Unsure....I'll check and post back up later!! CW

I had a sliding rear window put in yesterday!! I have wanted this for somwe time...kinda did it on a whim. I stopped in a local shope (RPM in Southington) to get some roll bar padding for my TJ and saw a sign offering this kind of work. So I inquired and struck a deal. ;) :brows: They did a very nice job!! I'll get to that headliner SOON I promice!!! :oops: CW

WJs are different. I think it's 5 x 5 but I don't remember for certain. I AM certain that it is NOT 5 x 4-1/2 Yeah, they're 5x5. I have one outside... Yup..me too! :brows: CW

I have changed these in old cars with cast exhaust manifolds... but never on a "header" style manifold. Those where brass and threaded in, unsure exactly how these attach.... The studs, at the flange from the header to the exhaust pipe, I mean... My MJ exhaust was rattling again. So I got under expecting one of the clamps os the new muffler to be loose. To my suprise they where all tight. But the hanger was shot. So I put in a new one and pulled the muffler up about a half and inch for good measure. Started it up and still had a rattle. It was the pipe itself, it was loose at those studs/bolts. I sprayed them with good penetrating oil, as I always have. and carefully tightened. the rar one wouldnt tighten and is now stripped. The stud is VERY rusty. I was able to use a new nut and get it somewhat tight. but it needs to be replaced. It FEELS like it may be a hex head but you cannot see it. My question is is this stud, threaded/ Pressed or welded in there... CW

Correct, But even these need a bit of "massaging" of the center hole to fit. Its easy if they are steel. A bit harder if alum, but doable. :brows: CW

Are you talking about this drop bracket?? Its really more of a relocater. Its used to recenter the axle after a lift. The only way I have seen to drop the frame end was with a couple of custome made discs. The bottom one was tapered to accept the stock TRE and the top one was studed with a papered bolt. They captured the nut of the stock bar between them and bolted to the stock location. Sorry no pics. CW

Sorry guys...I totally forgot about this thread...... :oops: :eek: Any way 87 found the thing!! GOOD JOB MAN!!! This is it!! CW

Today was BEAUTIFUL here!!! We have been waiting for a day like this!!!It was almost 80 degrees and sunny. I started the Alternator/Radiator swap Friday night. Got quite a bit done before the sun went down and it got cold. I did a new water pump and complete hoses at the same time. I also took the opertunity to swap in all new battery & Winch cables. As well as relocate my solenoids from the front of the Jeep to the top of the winch, out of harms way. Here is a couple shots of the new cables. I made them up to fit perfectly. I used very fine stranded #2/0 cable for all accept the charge line from the alternator. For that I used 6GA fine stranded wire. I also made up all new cables for the winch. These where short pieces from the winch to the solenoids. I moved the solenoids from the front of the Detours mount to the top of the winch. I used four rubber insulated metal cable ties. the kind you would screw to a bulk head or inner fender well to bundle wires. the fit very well arrounf the two cross bars connecting the right and left halves of the Warn 8000 winch. For the front I used a piece of 3/4" alum angle iron. and a 2" algle iron for the back. that way it gets a bit of a rake to shed water and make remote incertion that much easier. For the actual batt cables. I switched everything over to "marine" style connections. I also switched the starting wires from the top to the side posts of the Optima battery. This way the winch and ALL accessories now come off the top where the charge line can better conpinsate for the draw. Lastly I got started on that T-case skid I have been wanting to make. I also did a new 3row radiator, water pump and thermostat. no pics really..pretty mundane work. But I did make a lil video clip of the nice lower temps and the better idle and starting since the wiring upgrade!! CW

I agree about the drilling. It dosen't appear to be enough there below the frame rail to get a nut on. Besides the great fun of overhead welding Dirty mentions...read SUX BIG TIME!!! Go at it knowing it will be a beoitch and have a number of drills and cold beer ready for the swearing breaks. :roll: :D good luck!! CW

WJ LCA's not ZJ... I agree those are factory BS so 5.25 is what they are. The side knobs on swampers is what ruins it for you. Otherwise, it likey would be liveable. The WJ LCA's COULD be the ticket. I haven't measured to see what they actually give in extra clearance. Pete has a set, I'm sure he will measure for ya!! PETE....OH PETE...you up yet???????? CW

Thanks!! I liked the glasspac's sound at idle and off road...nice a deep rumble. But once you got on it or drove on the freeway it was gettting obnoxious. It had to go!! This weekend I'll get back under there and move it up a bit so the exit is nicely centered between the frame and leaf. CW

Well, I got the muffler in tonight.... Looked like it was clearing so I started...just in time for a shower to really drench me!! I didn't have the keys to Pops Gold XJ that was under the cover-it so I had to complete the job in the rain!! It came out really quick but I had to run back to the store as I didn't have the 2.5" pipe I though I did... :oops: Here is a couple shots: It LOOKS like its kinda hanging down. Its not really its just the angle. But I didnt get crazy with the hanger either. I just used the old one. I will this weekend when its NOT RAINING!!! I kept the side exit as I really like it. This time I used a factory end. I also took the time to shoot two clips of the sound. Here is before: Here is after: You can hear my fuel pump in the second clip. I am on empty (Noiser on empty) and I didn't let it prime in the first clip. MUCH quieter and nicer in the cab! Now I can better enjoy those fancy speakers I installed!! It won't upset the neighbors. Just what I wanted!! CW

I ended up getting everything I needed at one spot!! http://www.offroadairstore.com/servlet/ ... k+Brackets I also got a second regulator and a couple tank boots to make em purdy!! Thanks guys!! CW

If it is really bad you may want to go for an XRAY. You could have broken a finger up high in your palm. Not so noticable but quite painful...I would think there would be swelling though... Hope it gets better fast!! BTW...buy some ANTI SLEEZE. Its your BEST friend for parts thet need to be removable!!!! CW

Its all relative. My first reaction was that they would catch on everything as well....That depends...depends on your style on your terrain and your set up. To say NO WAY, THEY DRAG ARSE. Well thats not really fair.. Just as to say NO WAY, GO LONG ARM. Thats not fair either as its a apples to oranges comparison. Long arms do offer a much improved quality of ride. But if you not going to run 35" tires there advantages become limited. That and not all LA are created equal. MANY won't ride as well isolation wise as the stock arms. I have said it before, stay away from HEIM's on the street. You will find most LA's use them. NOT a good option IMHO. Don't get me wrong, their ARE good LA's but they will cost you more than the mentioned $500. For the mild wheeler the BD's will greatly improve your ride quality. I would say good choice. Personally, my MJ is for DD and mild trails. So I have a set ready to go in once it warms up. For the hard core wheeler, you will still get the ride quality but may be more willing to sacrafice it for articulation and out right durability. For this purpose I built my TJ. Bring on what ever, I'll likely give it a go... :brows: Weigh the options and consider where the opinions come from. CW

I'll go out to my trail tool box later and see if I can locate the addy for you guys!! (If someone else dosent get to it first.) Its a little gray plastic "cup" with a stem on one end for easier insertion. its held in by the seal and works great!!! I have a couple of these for just this purpose!! They are not needed on newer T cases as there is no fluid to leak out in them. The factory added or moved some seals around. I am unsure of the date of this change...but its on my 99 and NOT on my 89.......CW

You get what you pay for....some of us have gone the cheeper rout and have found money better spent by either waiting (saving) or bitting the bullet and spending a bit more. If it a street rig or mostly a street rig I would stay away from hiems. I didnt listen tio this advice at first either...cost me more than 200 cause less than a year later I ended up buying what I should have in the first place!!! The best advice I can give is buy the best you can aford or wait a bit longer and save to get the better model. If you look you will notice a trend toward the JKS stuff. Its for a good reason its quality. I feel the Kevins is better as it is a improvement on the JKS principal. Someone else mentioned this, I forgot. With Kevins he will buy back your factory bracket reducing your out of pocket. Go here and read what he has to say...shoot him a email. I think you will find its your best avenue. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/tbconversion.html CW